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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  May 8, 2015 7:00pm-8:01pm PDT

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back and bite him in the as, absolutely. >> people don't realize the rules you have to follow. >> if it was easy, everybody would be doing it. >> i thought it was supposed to get easier. miami sneaks up on you. or do we change and find ourselves sneaking up, washing up, ending up in miami? ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪
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♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, miami, it's a big place. bigger and more multifaceted than it's given credit for. >> miami, where you at? >> we tend, over the years, to focus on miami's -- how shall i put this -- party zone.
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♪ ♪ ♪ the party don't stop, stop, stop ♪ >> it's the kind of place we say that could never be me and then it is. it's a temptation that's almost irresistible.
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the seductions of flash, of palm trees, balmy nights, deco architecture, television shows made real, but across the causeway a few miles down the way there are other worlds, older ones. i think it's safe to say better ones. ♪ way out west, 20 miles from the airport, tucked in yet another strip mall is this place and you go there because, well, you need
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coffee and because cuba, respect, and because michelle bernstein is there. is this miami? this was a long time getting here >> you need a car in miami, and yes, this is like the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of my miami's most iconic influential chefs, born and bred her. >> when people say where did you grow up, you say -- >> miami. this is out west. you can't get much further west than this. >> what's beyond here? >> swampland. not much. >> body disposal. >> well, you can say that, i can't. >> this restaurant, we would actually come here for the seafood and it would be elegant. >> well, you have the waiters in the little bolero type jacket things. >> or a bow tie and there's still some places in miami that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee in miami. >> the real places give you the
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milk first and then the coffee. >> what do they call this? >> it's a big cup with little cups. >> it is basically like the coffee version, the caffeine version of a one-hitter. i'd have one of those. at the next place, i'd have another. and get increasingly jangly as i get towards work or whatever my destination. >> i grew up on the colada. we all give our babies coffee. they put their finger in it to taste it and they all grow up loving coffee. >> that's good. so, this is a nonjudgmental land, miami >> it is. you can pretty much get away with almost anything. >> it's good coffee. >> i'm so glad you like it because a lot of people don't like it. >> really? >> well, because they think it is too sweet. >> you're thinking, yes, a cubano sandwich, but you'd be wrong. this is not a cubano sandwich.
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strictly speaking. this, my friends is a cousin, like a cubano, it has roast pork, ham, swiss cheese, pickles, a little mustard and like a cubano, it is pressed until it is soft inside. >> you see how juicy that is? >> you know what pisses me off? people try to improve on this. >> a lot of people try to improve on it. how is it? yummy? >> it's good. a lot of thought is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> it is all about the layers. >> yeah. this is the perfect breakfast, right? >> it's good, yeah. i always go for the salty. never the sweet. >> i don't care about sweet things. if i have to give up one course of the meal, dessert. >> oh, of course. >> cheese over dessert any day.
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>> yes. i'd rather have steak over dessert, but maybe that's because my mother is from argentina. ♪ >> this is my world away from the world. to me, it's my little king's domain.
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♪ >> there's one place i keep coming back to. it's a place where if you look deep enough, ask the right questions, you can get a whole history of miami from one man. this man, matt klein. >> you're going to have to remember you're speaking to 100-year-old man. >> i know. you look good. >> raise your voice a little bit. >> you look good. if i look that good when i'm 60, i'll be happy. >> you know what the amazing thing about being 100 is? a year ago i was 99. nobody paid attention to me. nobody cared. i turned 100 and oh, my god. >> he turned 100 years old this year. yes, 100. he's still here. the cigarette smoke and dark dank atmosphere pretty good for a guy who's seen it all. >> that's 73 years ago.
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i was the second armor devision. >> matt klein came from new york's lower east side by way of the battle of normandy. >> i came here because i was wounded and the warm weather was much better for me. >> but there was a lot of g.i.s during the war here, right? >> people were stationed here and all of a sudden, they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, miami saw a massive influx of military personnel. hotels, which had seen a sharp drop in business, made a deal with the government to house troops in empty resorts. >> they told their parents about t their parents came down, sons came down, they opened businesses here, and they were basically jewish at the time and that's how it started. >> by the fall of 1942, more than 78,000 troops were living in more than 300 hotels in miami and miami beach.
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>> how long have you been running the deuce? >> i took over in 1964. half of my life i've spent here. miami beach has turned over at least six times since i've been here. all neon is "miami vice." this was their favorite bar. >> it makes sense too. >> still, it was very flattering. the same as how flattering it is to have you here. >> i love this place. i mean, i love it. it's my favorite bar in miami. to many more.
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opportunity is everywhere. ♪ ♪ the dreamers, the visionaries, crooks, and con men who built miami envision many different kinds of paradise. a new jerusalem in the
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infinitely expanding real estate, just fill in where there's water and you've got property. or as in coral gables, build a new venice. gondolas to ferry the new seekers to their palatzos in the sun. the dream was as expandable as the space. where there was water, there was now magically terra sort a firma. and in the '80s where there was decline, a vacuum, suddenly there was a new and vibrant economy one that raised all boats, filled miami with new
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buildings, shiny cars, swanky night clubs, and a new reputation for murder and criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made, for better or worse, miami sexy again. >> going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? but i mean that in a good way. outlaw culturism a very deep part of american culture. >> we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges or handguns. there is no indigenous industry. the only jobs we have are in hospitality, or restaurants. it's a >> real estate. >> real estate. it is all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981 the fbi called miami the most violent city in america. the drug industry brought in an
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estimated 7 to $12 billion a year and that was of 1981 miaoy. that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries in the history of film is "cocaine cowboys" that tells that story. the film made by these guys. so, things were in decline. cocaine sort of saved the city? >> we'd say so. am i going to get in trouble for it? yes. >> you had a murder rate. 25% of those bodies had automatic weapons bullets. >> we talk about the uncomfortable reality of where a lot of the modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard in miami when in season. stone crabs. ♪ >> federal reserve branch in miami had a $5 billion cash surplus. mostly 50s and 100 dollar bills
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all of which had trace elements of cocaine on them. >> and the guys in cocaine trafficking got out and are now big medicare fraudsters. >> we're whispering because they're probably here. >> so where's the money now? how's business in general in miami and where is that business coming from? >> remarkably the rebound from the great recession, the people thought it would take a decade and it seemed to happen almost overnight. by 2010, 2011, things have turned around here. we're in the middle of another huge boom. who is buying? wealthy foreigners. a lot of capital russians. >> if it is money looted from another country, do we care? trickle down. >> it has propped up miami once again with another inflated
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bubble and the question is how long will it last? ♪ >> there's history and there's the more immediate needs of the present. i need food presently and perhaps some fine bourbon and when i need good food in a city not my own, more and more these days i call somebody who, if they weren't good at enough things already, has become something of an expert on food around the world. >> every time i check instagram you're eating with one of my culinary heros. i'm here with ahmir-khalib thompson, otherwise known as questlove. you've been to this place before? >> i live at this place. >> really? >> yeah. >> yard bird quickly became a miami favorite.
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the old joke was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. producer, a teacher. >> yep. >> a d.j. >> technically, i have 16 jobs right now. >> devilled eggs with fresh dill and trout roll will be so over next year, but right now i want 10 more. delicious. fried green tomatoes with pork belly. this is the perfect thing for a guy looking to squeeze into a size 28 speedo tomorrow and hit the beach. what makes the miami sound different from the detroit sound, the philadelphia sound, the new york sound, whatever? >> you can't something specific like philadelphia had stringz in their arrangement, whereas records had organ in theirs.
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but i do consider it to be the beginning of really good dance music. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes, bourbon maple syrup, banana compote. even if you're not the king, you'll want to die on the toilet like he did. i should be eating a fist full of perk dan with that. it comed with chilled spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they brine the chicken 17 hours to be exact. tender inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. >> to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> you still don't understand? >> i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do like fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay. >> you don't want your food integrated? >> shrimp and grits, a southern classic.
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mide with florida shrimp, virginia ham and stone ground grits. i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened me. >> even now? >> jethro tul, even now, it scares me. i hate that old, englishy, old bar minstrel, stand on one leg mother [ muted ] shit. you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and
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♪ who got here first? who other than, say, some early native american tribes and spaniards? caribbean blacks, most of whom were bahamian. they figured heavily on the early development of south
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florida. henry morrison flagger, the tycoon largely credited with big the father of modern florida. his dream was the florida east coast railroad, which would run from jacksonville to key west connecting the ports of miami to the rail system of the rest of the united states, creating along its route new towns, new cities, new places where america's rising middle class could frolic and play. he also agreed to they are foundation for a city on both sides of the miami river. as more and more whites moved in, segregation took hold and much of the community was forced into the black neighborhoods like overtown. and liberty city. if you're looking for old miami, original miami, you're looking to an extent for black miami.
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♪ these days liberty city is mostly ignored by developers, but back in the day it was the epicenter of the black community. a lot has happened since then. ♪ >> pancakes, smoked sausage, boiled eggs. >> what do you usually get? >> the fishy grits. see, that's a bahamian dish.
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>> your parents were jamaican and bahamian. >> yes. >> today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. >> a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> oh, yeah. one night we'd have peas and rice. the other night we'd have rice and peas. >> otherwise known as luke sky walker. or uncle luke. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. maybe you know him from two live crew or from campbell versus rose music. how do you end up different growing up in miami than you would have grown up in l.a. and new york? >> a lot of people would have said southern people, whatever you want to call us, in
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acchewality, we're an island town. we were a bahaman town. >> very, very different. how has that mix, how has that impacted the music? >> it's everything. when people think about me, it's always, this guy makes this booty shaking music. everybody is dancing in a sexual way. the jamaicans cont the girls to stand up on you. i'm sure you know pp the girls are standing up on you. the girls stand up on you and put your butt on you. >> i've seen this on television. >> it's no different than a lap dance. >> yeah. among your other accomplishments, you ran for office >> yeah. >> about 70% residents of miami speak spanish at home. >> uh-huh. >> enormous african-american and
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afro-caribbean community. how come they keep electing conservative white guys? >> don't say nothing, don't energize your community. so, you didn't get them excited about voting. >> it is the opposite of get out the vote program. it is don't bother to vote. >> don't bother to vote. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlotte gris would have won the governor's race. >> if you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> best weather. >> how do you handle the cold if you have to tour or something in detroit or chicago or something? >> my mind-set is i don't have to deal with this every day. i'm going back to sunshine. so, when i got that on my mind, i can go to any city i can go into a blizzard. . i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> this is really good. >> back inland, another world of
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flavors. little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the b&m market is tucked away in the back. they serve some of the dishes they make me happiest, jerk chicken, who doesn't love that? curried goat, rowty, and this, cow-foot soup. the real deal too. flavors and textures, some next level stuff. that looks, by the way, unbelievable. that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> the mix of cultures. >> what's the worst thing? >> you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people because that's kind of how i am and i don't get a hi back a lot here. >> to what do you attribute this? >> the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted. they are from south america, central america.
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their whole plan is to come here do what they can to send money to their family to live in the home of their dreams and then go back and live in them. which is great. i would probably do the same thing. ♪ >> if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, and i mean this absolutely. find some place on the beach and just sink in until my liver-spotted george hamilton face, walk up and down metal detecter, with shorts up to here, that would be me. but what i find is people who go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> ask me when the last time i went to the beach was. >> when was the last time i went to the beach. >> about a year and a half ago. >> what the [ muted ] is that?
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>> we're working. i love it and i always say i will never live in south florida if i didn't live near water. i live near water and i leave my doors open a lot, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go into my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> okay. t-mobile has america's fastest 4g lte network from the bay area to the big apple. and more data capacity per customer. need one more reason? get two lines of unlimited 4g lte data for a hundred bucks save without settling on america's fastest 4g lte network
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♪ ♪ standing here in the rain trying to wash away my singing ♪ ♪ baby gone and left me i don't think she's coming back again ♪ >> before "miami base" before the miami sound machine, there was a miami sound. the music, the original miami sound we're talking about, came from this man, willie clark and this place. >> what was this space originally? >> this was a little restaurant smaller than this and we were on the other side with the record shop. >> now it looks like a nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of deep city records.
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♪ wake up in the morning willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank williams and the rocketeers. johnny kilns and the dynamites. everything you have produced, it is a very, very long list. an amazing list. >> it is about 1200. >> 1200 songs. >> it just flows. i'm like a song mechanic. you bring it to me. i'll help you fix it. >> willy and his writing partner wrote such classics as "clean up woman" and "rocking chair." it was my answer to motown. 50 years from now, 100 years from now, if you were to do an
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internet search and punch in the miami sound, your name is going to come up right away as principal creator of the miami sound. what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican, and people came down from georgia and alabama, but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> right. >> we would have bands who would march from overtown all the way to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and the marching, that was the main difference. >> and you were teaching school through a lot of this? >> yeah, i was teaching. i would walk in the front door of the school, look around, put my sign in and walk out of the back door. and go straight to the studio. but, you know, the principal
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knew what i was doing. >> yep. >> i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> you're still out there so your songs are still being played, still being sampled, which is good. >> that's great. if it weren't for the samples, i don't know what i'd do. what kept us alive is -- >> the collectors must go crazy. maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> if i had known back then, i guess we would still be over there. biggest motown or bigger. >> this is an island, isn't it? it is kind of an island. >> it is worse than an island.
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♪ darling i'm willing to forget about our past ♪ ♪ darling i'm able to make our love last ♪ ♪ i'm a one man's woman and i'm willing and able to be loved ♪ ♪ oh yes i am yeah yeah yeah when i booked this trip, my friends said i was crazy. why would i stay in someone else's house? but this morning, a city i've never been to felt like one i already knew.
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♪ another day, another country. miami is like that. you can eat your way across the caribbean and through all of latin america and then over to africa, if you'd like. it's all there. if you know anything about me, you know i love few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else, mutant versions of the giant hamburger and this one, this one is something special. >> this is a tall venezuelan. it's protein on protein on protein and it's all bute lot of sauces. we're going to do this. absolutely, right? okay.
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>> what is this neighborhood? >> some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody here speak spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> most people in miami speak spanish at home >> even if they are not latin. because you can't really get a job, especially in the service industry. you have to speak spanish. >> meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, potatoes and cheese. it's big. big i tells you. you have to demolish it in stages like a hyena grabbing an antelope by the hoof. you try to grab the small parts
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first. >> i'm going to start crying. all right. i'm going in. good god. >> yes or no? >> it's delicious, but -- >> it's a little much, right. >> there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> this is open until 4:00 a.m. there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of everything that ever ailed you. >> long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latin america, miami was long a mecca for americans who wanted to get off the grid. you'll remember travis, the
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mystery solving boat bum who lived on a houseboat in miami. the busted flush. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river. >> we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. >> no. >> but, yeah, it's a good life. >> i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just degenerate wind addicts. this is more of a lifestyle choice for you. >> it is. it's got a machine shop on board
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and i kind of wanted to go into the bahamas and get the boat to earn its own keep and of course, the economy tanked and now i'm living on it. >> the steel hauled achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to soon. >> who else lives like you? >> it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> how long do you think you've got? >> six months, a year? >> really? >> that complex that's going up there, we sit here and watch them put the build gds up and they're -- >> coming closer. >> -- creeping this way. >> you're not moving onto land anytime soon if you can avoid it? >> no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on.
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miami informs -- miami
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informs kind of place you say, that's never going to be me and then it. you were here 15 years? >> yes. >> you were floridaen. >> he was a road map for bad behavior. his music, it turns out was the sound track for most of my life. still is. james osterburg, still known all over the world as iggy pop. you grew up in michigan -- >> i have went from michigan to london and london to hollywood, which was rough and hollywood to berlin, which was great, back to london and then new york from 1979 to 1999. >> was it a conceivable option at any point to say, i can live in florida? >> it wasn't for me, i was
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hustling. hustling in a big city. it happened by chance i had a shady friend who own adcondo here and i thought, well, this is a nice little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach anytime you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that and it was safe and free and i thought this is beautiful. ♪ >> so, we're eating healthy today? >> yeah. >> what do you like here? i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room, all those years later, i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop.
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i well remember the first stoojs album coming up, the context of the time. this was -- >> 1979. august. >> your music early on was a negative example, in terms of health. and i'm pretty much known for traveling round the world and drinking and eating to excess. what does it say about us that we're sitting in a healthy restaurant, i just came from the gym and we're in florida. >> you're in such voluminous and i indistinguished company and all your works will come out quicker for you. >> what's a perfect day in miami? >> it's a clear morning, hot, hot and humid, no moderate or any of that crap, no, hot,
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humid, the sun comes up in a hazy, tropical orange orb and you're not working, you're not on a schedule, and you have no meetings but you have somebody fun to spend the time with and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right over head yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water and the sparkle is very nice. so positive. ♪ >> there's a tem plate for the rock star. other rock stars look at you to say, how should i behave? even if you're broke, you are a guy who in various points in life, has had a number of things
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that ordinary people would never have had. you've had many, many adventures. >> i know. >> given that, what thrills you? >> the nicest stuff right now, it's very embarrassing, being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪ i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> is this the reward phase of your livefe or is it just dumb luck? >> i think mostly it's a reward
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phase for stuff i did up to 30, stuff you had to do on instinct and not intelligence. >> see, i think you deserve it but when i look at my own life, i'm ambivlant, i'm still not so sure. >> i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> it's my only virtue. >> curious is a good thing to do, it seems to pay unexpected dividends. ♪ i'm a passenger and i ride and i ride, i ride through the city ♪ ♪ i see the stars come out in the sky ♪ ♪ so, let's ride and ride and ride ♪ >> and i guess that's what it comes down to, all of it. i write a book, i get a tv show, i live my dreams, i meet my
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hero. two old men on a beach. ♪ l♪ ♪ oklahoma city lies at the geographic heart of the country. more small town than big city. it's probably the last place you'd pick to be targeted for destruction. then came the morning of april 19th, 1995. >> good morning in this

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