tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN May 10, 2015 8:00pm-9:01pm PDT
[ bleep ]. i will challenge them. >> i'm boiling inside just thinking about it. >> everyone is playing everyone. >> i'm fed up. >> i don't [ bleep ] trust any of it. ♪ miami sneaks up on you. or do we change and find ourselves sneaking up, washing up, ending up in miami? ♪ i took a walk through this
beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, miami, it's a big place. bigger and more multifaceted than it's given credit for. >> miami, where you at? >> we tend over the years to focus on miami's -- how shall i put this -- party zone. ♪
irresistible. the seductions of flash, of palm trees, walky nights, deco architecture, the manufactured dreams of television shows made real, but across the causeway, a few miles down the way there are other worlds, older ones. i think it's safe to say better ones. ♪ ♪ way out west 20 miles from the airport tucked in yet another
strip mall is this place, and you go there because, well, you need coffee and because cuba, respect, and because michelle bernstein is there. is this miami? it was a long time getting here. >> you need a car in miami, and yes, this is like the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of my miami's most iconic influential chefs, born and bred here. >> when people say where did you grow up, you say -- >> miami. >> where in miami? >> this is way out west. i mean, you can't get much further west than this. >> what's beyond here? >> swampland. >> awesome. body disposal. >> you can say this. i can't. this restaurant, we would actually come here for the seafood and it would be elegant. >> well, you have the waiters in the little bolero type jacket things. >> usually a bowtie, yeah, and there's still some cuban places in miami that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee in miami. >> the real places give you the milk first and then the coffee.
>> what are they called again? colattas. >> a big cup with little cup. >> it is basically like the coffee version, the caffeine version of a one-hitter. i'd have one of those. at the next place, i'd have another. and i'd basically get increasingly jangly as i head towards work whatever my final destination it. >> i group on the colada. we all give our babies coffee. they put their finger in it to taste it and they all grow up loving coffee. >> that's good. this is a non-judgmental land, miami >> you know what, it is. you can pretty much get away with almost anything. >> it's good coffee. >> i'm so glad you like it because a lot of people don't like it. >> really? >> well, because they think it is too sweet. >> and many of you watching watching this are aware of a sandwich thing canned cubano, yes, a cubano sandwich, but you'd be wrong.
this is not a cubano sandwich closely speaking, this is a cousin. like cubano, it has ham, roast peek, swiss cheese, pickles and a little mustard and like a cubano, it is pressed until it is soft inside. >> you see how juicy that is? >> you know what pisses me off? people try to improve on this. >> how is it? is it yummy? >> it's good. a lot of thought is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> it is all about the layers. >> yeah. much of everything. >> this is the perfect breakfast, right? >> it's good, yeah. i always go for the salty. never the sweet. >> i don't care about sweet things. if i have to give up one course of the meal, dessert. >> oh, of course. >> cheese over dessert any day. >> oh, yeah. actually, i'd rather have steak
♪ >> there's one place i keep coming back to. it's a place where if you look deep enough, ask the right questions, you can get a whole history of miami from one man. this man, matt klein. >> you're going to have to remember you're speaking to 100-year-old man. >> i know. you look good. >> raise your voice a little bit. >> you look good. if i look that good when i'm 60, i'll be happy. >> you know what the amazing thing about being 100 is? a year ago i was 99. nobody paid attention to me. didn't care. i became 100, my god. >> matt klein, the owner, proprietor and regular bartender at club abuse turned 100 years old this year, yes, 100. he's still here. the cigarette smoke and dark dank atmosphere pretty good for a guy that's seen it all. >> that's 73 years ago.
ft. benning, georgia, i was in the second armored division. >> matt came to miami in 1945 from new york's remember east side by way of the battle of normandy. >> i came here because i was wounded and the warm weather was much bet are for me. >> but there was a lot of g.i.s during the war here, right? >> the war made miami beach for the simple reason that people were stationed here, and they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, miami saw a massive influx of military personnel. hotels, which had seen a sharp drop in business, made a deal with the government to house troops at the empty resorts. >> they told their parents about it. their parents came down, sons came down. they opened businesses here, and they were basically jewish at the time and that's hoy it started. >> by the fall of 1942, more than 78,000 troops were living in 300 hotels in miami and miami beach.
>> how long have you been running the deuce? >> i took over in 1964. half of my life i've spent here. miami beach has turned over at least six times since i've been here. all that knee owen is "miami vice." they put it in here. this was their favorite bar. >> yeah, it makes sense, too. >> still, it was very flattering. the same as how flattering it is to have you here. >> i love this place. i mean, i love it. it's my favorite bar in miami. to many more. ♪
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different kinds of paradise. a new jerusalem in the seemingly infinitely expanding real estate. just fill in where there's water and you've got property. or as in coral gables, build a new venice complete with the architecture and grand canals, gondolas to ferry the new seekers to their palazzos in the sun. the dream was as expandable as the space. where there was water, there was now magically terra sort of firma. and in the '80s where there was decline, a vacuum, suddenly there was a new and vibrant economy, one that raised all
boats, miami with new buildings, shiny cars, swanky night clubs and floods of cash and a new reputation for murder and criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made, for better or worse, miami sexy again. >> going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? but i mean that in a good way. outlaw culture is a very deep part of american culture. >> we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges or handguns. there is no indigenous industry. we sell sunshine. the only jobs we have are in hospitality or in restaurants. >> real estate. >> real estate. it is all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981 the fbi called miami the most violent city in america.
the drug industry brought in an estimated 7 to $12 billion a year and that was of 1981 miami. that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries in the history of film is "cocaine cowboys" that tells that story. the film, made my these guys, alfred spellman and billy corbin. so things were in decline. cocaine sort of saved the city? >> we'd say so. am i going to get in trouble for it? yes, but by 1981 you had a murder rate. you had 635 homicides here and 25% of those bodies had automatic weapons bullets. >> right. we talk about the uncomfortable reality of where a lot of the modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard in miami when in season. stone crabs.
>> federal reserve branch in miami had a $5 billion cash surplus. mostly 50s and 100 dollar bills all of which had trace elements of cocaine on them. >> and the guys in cocaine trafficking in the '70s and '80s and got busted an went to prison got out and are now big medicare fraudsters. >> we're whispering because they're probably here. >> so where's the money now? how's business in general in miami, and where is that business coming from? >> remarkably the rebound from the great recession, the people thought it would take a decade for all the condo inventory to get absorbed and it seemed to happen almost overnight. by 2009, 2011 things had turned around here and we're in the middle of another huge boom. who is buying? wealthy foreigners. a lot of capital russians. >> if it is money looted from another country, do we care? trickle down, boys, trickle
down. >> there's another bubble, and the question is how long will it last? >> there's history and there's the more immediate needs of the present. i need food presently and perhaps some fine bourbon, and when i need good food in a city not my own, more and more these days i call somebody if they weren't good at enough things already has become something of an expert on good food around the world. every time i check instagram you're eating with one of my culinary heros. you're here and he seems to like you better than me. i'm here with ahmir-khalib thompson, otherwise known as questlove. >> you've been to this place before? >> i live at this place. >> really? >> yeah. >> yard bird quickly became a miami favorite.
serving over the top classics to bon vivane t. the old joke was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. producer, a teacher. >> yep. >> a d.j. >> technically, i have 16 jobs right now. >> devilled eggs with fresh dill and trout roll will be so over next year, but right now i want more. delicious. fried bean tomatoes with pork belly. this is the perfect thing for a guy who is looking to squeeze into a size 28 speedo tomorrow and hit the beach. yeah. how long you been in miami? >> three to five times a year. >> what makes the miami sound different from the detroit sound, the philadelphia sound, the new york sound, whatever? >> you know what, you can't say something specific lie philadelphia had orchestral strings in their arrangement
whereas stacks records had organ in theirs, but i do consider the sound of miami to be beginning of really great dance music. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes, bourbon maple syrup, banana compote. and peanut butter. even if you're not king, you'll want to die on the toilet like he did after this carbo load. >> really doing the elvis experience right, i should be eating a fist full of percodan with that. yard bird's signature fried chicken comes with spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they brine the chicken 17 hours to be exact. the spicy bath includes garlic, onons, cayenne pepper, tender inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. >> to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> you still don't understand? >> i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do like fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay.
>> you don't want your food integrated? >> shrimp and grits, a southern classic. made with florida shrimp, virginia ham and south carolina stone ground. >> i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened me. >> gentlemen throw tull, i whipped into a murderous rage right away. even now? >> even now. >> i'm angry that that band ever exist. i hate that old englishy, old, bar minstrely, stand on one leg mother [ no audio ] shit. you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and
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bahamians figured heavily in the development of south florida which began in earnest in the construction of railroads in the early 19th and 20th century by this guy, henry morrison flagler, the industrialist and tycoon largely credited with being the father of modern florida. flagler's dream was the florida east coast railway, which would run from jacksonville to key west, connecting the ports of miami to the rail system of the rest of the united states. creating along its rue new towns, new cities, new edense where america's rising middle class could frolic and play. he also agreed to late foundation for a city on both sides of the miami river. as more and more whites moved in, segregation took hold and much of the bahamian community was forced into black neighborhoods like overtown and liberty city, so if you're looking for old miami, original miami, you're looking to a great
extent for black miami. ♪ these days liberty city is mostly ignored by developers, but back in the day it was the epicenter of the black community. a lot has happened since then. >> corn beef, pancakes, smoked sausage, boiled eggs and eggs and cheese. >> what do you usually get? >> oh, man, the fish and grits. that's a bahamian dish.
>> your parents were jamaican and bahamian? >> yes. yes, my mom was bahamian and my dad jamaican. >> today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. >> a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> oh, yeah. one night we've have rice and peays and the other night we'd have peas and reis. >> otherwise known as luke sky walker. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. maybe you know him from campbell versus rose music. >> how do you end up different growing up in miami than you would have grown up in l.a. and new york? >> people will say, southern people, south, alabama, whatever they want to call us, but
actually we're island town. i mean, miami was made up of bahamians that really built the city of miami, so now you have different couple tours. >> arabian, south american, very, very, very different. how has that mix? how has that impacted the music? >> it's impacted the music. when people think about me, this guy makes booty-shaking music. everybody is dancing in a sexual way. the girls are standing up on you. the girls stand up on you and put your butt on you. >> i've seen this on television. >> it's no different than a lap dance. >> some of your other accomplishments. you ran for office? >> yeah. >> about 70% residents of miami
speak spanish at home. >> uh-huh. >> enormous african-american and caribbean community. how come this state keeps electing conservative white guys? >> conservative white guys, they play the pastors, don't say nothing, don't energize your people so you have a whole quiet community. you didn't get them excited about voting. >> just the opposite of get out the vote program. don't bother to vote. >> don't bother to vote. take the governor's election. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlie crist would have won the governor's race. >> right. you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> best weather. >> yeah. how do you handle the cold? got a tour or spend a week in detroit or chicago or something? >> my mindset is i don't have to deal with this every day. >> right. >> i'm going back to sunshine.
i can go into a blizzard. i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> this is really good. >> back inland, another world of flavors. little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the b & m market is a grocery store with a cafe of sorts tucked away in the back, and they serve some of the dishes that make me happiest, jerk chicken. who doesn't love that? currieded goat, rotee and this, this, cow-foot soup, the real deal, too, flavors and textures, some next level stuff. that looks, by the way, unbelievable. that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> the mix of cultures that we've got. >> what's the worst thing? >> you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people because that's kind of like i am and i don't get a hi back a lot here. >> to what do you attribute this?
>> the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted. they are from south america, central america. their whole plan is to come here do what they can to send money to their family to buy the homes of their dreams and go back and live in them which is great. i would probably do the same thing. ♪ >> if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, and i mean this absolutely, find some place on the beach and just sink into my liver-spotted crocodile spink, late george hamilton phase and walk up and down with my metal detector with shorts up to hear, and that's just me. i find people who go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> ask me when the last time i went to the beach was. >> when was the last time i went to the beach. >> about a year and a half ago. >> what the [ muted ] is that? >> we're working.
>> if you weren't working, do you think you'd be at the beach more hofn? >> my dream is to have a house on beach, i don't know why. i never go. i love it and i'll never say i would never live in south florida if i didn't live near water and i live near water and do leave my doors open a lot and i get the breeze, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go in my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> okay.
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♪ standing here in the rain trying to wash away my singing ♪ ♪ baby gone and left me i don't think she's coming back again ♪ >> before miami barks before the miami sound machine, there was a miami sound. ♪ ♪ rain, rain, rain, keep on raining ♪ >> the music, the original miami sound we're talking about, came from this man, willie clark and this space. what was this space originally? >> this was a little restaurant smaller than this and we were on the other side with the record shop. >> now it looks like a nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of deep city records.
♪ wake up in the morning >> willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city. recording and promoting local talent out of the shop. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank smith and the rocketeers and the dynamites. >> it is a very, very long list, an amazing list. >> it is about 100. >> 1,200 songs. >> it just flows. i'm like what you might call a song mechanic. >> mm-hmm. >> you bring it to me. i'll help you fix t. >> willie and his writing partner clarence "blow fly" reed wrote such classics as "cleanup woman," "rocking chair" and this was willie's answer to motown, a unique sound. 50, 100 years from now and you do an internet search and punch in miami sound, your name is going to come up right away aspirins pal creator of the
miami sound. what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican and then some people who came down from georgia and alabama. >> mm-hmm. >> but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> right. >> we would have bands who would march from overtown all the way to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and marching, we said that that was the main difference. >> and were you teaching school through a lot of this period? >> yeah, i was teaching school. i would walk in the front door of the school, look around, put my sign in and walk out of the back door and go straight to the studio. but, you know, the principal
knew what i was doing. >> yeah. >> i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> you're still out there so your songs are still being played, still being sampled, which is good. right? >> that's great. if it weren't for the samples, i don't know what i would do. part of a record industry that kept us alive >> the collectors must go crazy, maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> if i had known back then, i had known how hot we were then, i guess we'll would still be over there, biggest motown or bigger. >> this is an island, isn't it?
another day, another country. miami is like that. you can eat your way across the caribbean and through all of latin america and then over to africa, if you'd like. it's all there. this is venezuelan, and if you know anything about me you know i love few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else, mutant versions of the giant hamburger, and this one, this one is something special. >> okay. so this is the deal. this is all venezuelan which means kind of protein on protein on protein and it's all about a lot of sauces. all right. so we're going to did this.
absolutely, right? >> okay. >> what is this neighborhood? >> some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody speaking spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> most people in miami speak spanish at home, a lot, over half. >> yes, even if they are not latin. >> right. >> because you can't really get a job if you're in the service industry, especially. you have to speak spanish. >> meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has got a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, crispy matchstick potatoes and cheese. it's big. big, i tells you. you have to demolish it in stages like you're imploding a casino or like a hyena grabbing an antelope on the hoof. try to tunnel through the soft parts first. >> this is sort of an engineering challenge. >> a larger mouth possibly? >> i mean, i'm going to start
crying looking at that thing. all right. i'm going in. good god. >> yes or no? >> it's delicious, but -- >> it's a little much, right. >> there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> this is open until 4:00 a.m. there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of everything that ever ailed you. >> long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latdin america, miami was also an inviting place for americans who just wanted to get off the grid, live differently, make their own rules. if you've ever read the excellent travis mcgee novels of
john d. mcdonald, you'll remember travis, the mystery-solving boat bum who lived on a house boat in mime, the busted flush. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river. >> we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. but yeah, it's a good life. >> i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just degenerate wind addicts. >> right. >> this is more of a lifestyle choice for you. >> it is. it's good a machine shop on
board, and i kind of wanted to go down to the bahamas and let the boat pay for itself, earn its own keep and, of course, the economy tanked and now i'm living on it. >> the 25-ton steel-hull achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to soon. who else lives like you? >> it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> how long do you think you've got? >> six months, a year? really? >> that complex going up there, that tower, we sit here watching them put all the buildings up. >> and they are coming closer. >> they are creeping this way. >> you're not moving on to land any time soon if you can avoid it. >> no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on. (mom) when our little girl was born, we got a subaru. it's where she said her first word. (little girl) no! saw her first day of school.
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so you've been here how many years now? >> 15 years. >> 15 years. you're a floridian. >> yeah. >> when i was young, this man was a role model, an ideal, a roadmap for bad behavior. his music, it turned out, was the soundtrack for most of my life. still is. james osterburg of muskegon, michigan, known still all over the world as iggy pop. >> you grew up in michigan, you've lived in new york for a long period of time. >> i went from michigan to london. i went from london to hollywood, which was rough. hollywood to berlin, which was great. back to london. and new york from '79 to '99. >> was it a conceivable option at any point, i can live in florida? >> it wasn't for me. i was hustling. hustling in a big city. it just kind of happened by
chance. i had a shady friend who owned a condo here, and thought, well, this is a nice, little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach any time you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that, and it was safe and free. and i thought, that's a -- this is beautiful. ♪ >> so we're eating healthy today? >> yeah. >> what do you like here? >> i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room that all those years later i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop. barbecue shrimp for the godfather of punk. i get wild and crazy with some roast pork.
a little white wine, our only tilt toward the debauches of previous lives. >> i well remember the first stooges album coming out, the context of the time. this was, what, '69? >> '69, august. >> in a lot of ways as far as looking after my health, your music early on was a negative example. >> i hear you. >> and looking at my own life and career, i'm pretty much known for traveling around the world and recklessly drinking and eating to excess. >> sure. >> what does it say about us that we're now sitting in a healthy restaurant, i just came from the gym, and we're in florida? >> listen, if you just flamed out, you're in -- you know, you're in such voluminous and undistinguished company and all your works will flame out quicker with you. ♪ >> what's the perfect day in miami? >> it's a clear morning. hot. hot and humid. no moderate or any of that crap.
no. hot, hot, humid. the sun comes up in a hazy tropical orange orb, and you're not working. you're not on a schedule. and you have no meetings, but you have somebody fun to spend the time with. and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right overhead yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water. and the sparkle is very nice. so, positive. ♪ >> you're the template for the rock star, meaning other rock stars sort of look to you to figure out how should i behave? along with that, look, even at its -- even if you're broke, you're a guy at various points
in life has pretty much been one way or the other have been able to have a lot of things ordinary people would never have. you've had many, many adventures. >> i know -- >> given that, what thrills you? >> the nicest stuff right now, this is very embarrassing, but it's really -- being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪ i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> is this the reward phase of your life, or is it just dumb [ muted ]? >> it's been emotionally i think a reward phase for stuff i did
up until the age 30. stuff you had to do on instinct and not on intelligence. >> see, i think you deserve it. but when i look at my own life, you know, i'm actually -- i'm ambivalent. i mean, i'm still not so sure. you know? >> i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> it's my only virtue. >> there you go. all right. curious is a good thing to be. it seems to pay some unexpected dividends. ♪ i am a passenger and i ride and ride ♪ ♪ i ride through the city ♪ i see the stars come out of the sky ♪ ♪ so let's ride and ride and ride and ride ♪ >> i guess that's what it comes down to. all of it. led here. i write a book, i get a tv show,
i live my dreams, i meet my hero. two old men on a beach. ♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ la, la, la, la, la, la, la everything changes. nothing changes at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪