tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN June 19, 2015 9:00pm-10:01pm PDT
♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, miami, it's a big place. bigger and more multifaceted than it's given credit for. >> miami, where you at? >> we tend over the years to focus on miami's -- how shall i put this -- party zone. ♪
irresistible. the seductions of flash, of palm trees, balmy nights, deco architecture, television shows made real, but across the causeway a few miles down the way there are other worlds, older ones. i think it's safe to say better ones. ♪ way out west 20 miles from the airport tucked in yet another strip mall is this place and you go there because, well, you need
coffee and because cuba, respect, and because michelle bernstein is there. >> is this miami? it was a long time getting here. >> you need a car in miami, and yes, this is like the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of my miami's most iconic influential chefs, born and bred her. >> when people say where did you grow up, you say -- >> miami. this is way out west. i mean you can't get much further west than this. >> what's beyond here? >> swampland. not much. >> body disposal. >> you can say that. i can't. this restaurant, we would actually come here for the seafood and it would be elegant. >> well, you have the waiters in the little bolero-type jacket things. >> or a bow tie and there's still some places in miami that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee in miami. >> the real places give you the
milk first. >> what do they call this? >> it's a big cup with little cups. >> it is basically like the coffee version, the caffeine version of a one-hitter. i'd have one of those. at the next place, i'd have another. i basically get increasingly jangley as i head towards work. or whatever my final destination. >> i grew up on the colada. at 4 i had my first colada. we all give our babies coffee. they put their finger in it to taste it and they all grow up loving coffee. >> that's good. so this is a nonjudgmental land, miami. >> it is. you can pretty much get away with almost anything. >> it's good coffee. >> i'm so glad you like it. a lot of people don't like it. >> really? >> well, because they think it is too sweet. >> many of you who are watching are dimly aware of this sandwich, cubano. you're thinking, yes, a cubano sandwich, but you'd be wrong. this is not a cubano sandwich.
strictly speaking. this my friends is a close cousin. like a cubano, it has ham, swiss cheese, pickles, a little mustard and like a cubano, it is pressed until it is hot and runny inside. but -- >> it is darker and sweeter. you have a real contrast with the salty pickles, pork and bread. you see how juicy that is? that's the telling of the cuban sandwich. >> a lot of people try to improve on it. >> a lot of people try to improve upon it. you can't fancify it. how is it? is it yummy? >> it's good. a lot of thought is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> it is all about the layers. >> yeah. this is the perfect breakfast, right? >> it's good, yeah. i always go for the salty. never the sweet. >> i don't care about sweet things. if i have to give up one course of the meal, dessert. >> of course. >> cheese over dessert any day. >> oh, yeah. i'd rather have steak over dessert, but maybe that's
♪ >> there's one place i keep coming back to. it's a place where if you look deep enough, ask the right questions, you can get a whole history of miami from one man. this man, matt klein. >> you're going to have to remember you're speaking to 100-year-old man. >> i know. you look good. >> raise your voice a little bit. >> you look good. if i look that good when i'm 60, i'll be happy. >> you know what the amazing thing about being 100 is? a year ago i was 99. nobody paid attention to me. didn't care. i became 100, my god. >> matt klein, the owner, proprietor, at max club deuce turned 100 years old this year. yes, 100. he's still here. the cigarette smoke and dark dank atmosphere pretty good for a guy that's seen it all. >> that's 73 years ago.
ft. bening, georgia. i was in the second army division. >> matt klein came from new york's lower east side by way of the battle of normandy. >> i came here because i was wounded and the warm weather was much better for me. >> but there was a lot of g.i.s during the war here, right? >> they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, miami saw a massive influx of military personnel. hotels, which had seen a sharp drop in business, made a deal with the government to house troops at the empty resorts. >> they told their parents about it. their parents came down, son came down, they opened their businesses here, and they were basically jewish at the time and that's how it started. >> by the fall of 1942, more than 78,000 troops were living in 300 hotels in miami and miami beach. >> how long have you been
running the deuce? >> i took over in 1964. half of my life i've spent here. miami beach has turned over at least six times since i've been here. all that neon is miami vice. they put it in there. this was their favorite bar. >> it makes sense too. >> still, it was very flattering. the same as how flattering it is to have you here. >> i love this place. i mean, i love it. it's my favorite bar in miami. to many more. ♪ great job! okay! here you go. good catch! alright, now for the best part. ooh, let's get those in the bowl. these are way too good to waste, right? [ male announcer ] share what you love with who you love. kellogg's frosted flakes. they're gr-r-reat!
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a new jerusalem in the seemingly infinitely expanding real estate, just fill in where there's water and you've got property. or as in coral gables, a new venice. complete with grand canals. gondolas to ferry their new seekers to their palazzos in the sun. the dream was as expandable as the space. where there was water, there was now magically terra sorta firma. and in the '80s where there was decline, a vacuum, suddenly there was a new and vibrant economy, one that raised all boats, filled miami with new
buildings, shiny cars, swanky nightclubs, floods of cash and a new reputation for murder an criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made, for better or worse, miami sexy again. going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? but i mean that in a good way. outlaw culturism a very deep part of american culture. >> in florida, we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges and handguns. there is no indigenous industry. we sell sunshine. the only jobs we have are in hospitality or in restaurants. >> real estate. >> real estate. it is all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981, the fbi called miami the most violent city in america.
the drug industry brought in an estimated $7 to $12 billion a year and that's of 1981 money. that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries in the history of film is "cocaine cowboys" that tells that story. the film made by these guys, alfred spellman and billy corbin. >> so things were in decline. cocaine sort of saved the city? >> we'd say so. am i going to get in trouble for it? >> yes. by 1981, you had a murder rate here. 25% of those bodies had automatic weapons bullets. >> right. >> we talk about the uncomfortable reality of where a lot of modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard in miami when in season. stone crabs. >> federal reserve branch in
miami had a $5 billion cash surplus. mostly 50s and 100 dollar bills all of which had trace elements of cocaine on them. >> and the guys who were in cocaine trafficking in the '70s and '80s got out and are now big medicare fraudsters. >> we're whispering because they're probably here. >> so where's the money now? how's business in general in miami and where is that business coming from? >> remarkably, the rebound from the great recession, the people thought it would take almost a decade for all the condo inventory to get absorbed and it seemed to happen almost overnight. by 2010, 2011, things had turned around here. we're in the middle of another huge boom. who's buying? wealthy foreigners. a lot of flight capital from overseas in latin america, south america. russians. >> if it is money looted from another country, do we care? trickle down, trickle down. >> it has propped up miami once
again with another inflated bubble and the question is how long will it last? >> there's history and there's the more immediate needs of the present. i need food presently and perhaps some fine bourbon and when i need good food in a city not my own, more and more these days i call somebody if they weren't good at enough things already, has become something of an expert on good food around the world. >> every time i check instagram you're eating with one of my culinary heros. he seems to like you a lot better than me. ahmir-khalib thompson, known to most as questlove. >> you've been to this place before? >> i live at this place. >> really? >> yeah. >> yard bird quickly became a miami favorite.
serving over the top southern classics to people like us. >> the old joke was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. let's review, okay? band leader, producer, a teacher -- >> yep. >> a d.j. >> technically, i have 16 jobs right now. >> deviled eggs with fresh dill and trout roll will be so over next year, but right now i want like ten more. delicious. fried green tomatoes with pork belly. this is the perfect thing for a guy looking to squeeze into a size 28 speedo tomorrow and hit the beach. >> how often are you in miami? >> three to five times a year. >> what makes the miami sound different from the detroit sound, the philadelphia sound, the new york sound, whatever? >> you can't say something specific like philadelphia had strings in their arrangement
whereas stats records had organ in theirs. i consider the sound of miami to be the beginning of really great dance music. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes, bourbon maple syrup, banana compote, and peanut butter. even if you are not the king, you'll want to be on the toilet after this cargo load. >> i should have a fist full of -- with that. >> yard bird's signature fried chicken comes with chilled spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they bryan brine the chicken for a day, 27 hours to be exact. tender inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. >> to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> you still don't understand? >> i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do love fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay.
>> you don't want your food integrated? >> shrimp and grits, a southern classic made with florida shrimp, virginia ham, and south carolina stone ground grits. >> i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened. >> jethro tull, i whip in to a murderous stage >> even now? >> even now. i'm angry that that band ever existed. i hate that old englishy, old, bar minstrely, stand on one leg mother [ muted ] hate that shit. [ laughter ] you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and jethro tull, he's my version of that.
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bahamians figured heavily in the early development of south florida, which began in earnest with the construction of railroads in the late 19th and 20th centuries by this guy. henry morrison flagger, the tycoon largely credited with big the father of modern florida. his dream was the florida east coast railway, which would run from jacksonville to key west connecting the ports of miami to the rail system of the rest of the united states, creating along its route new towns, new cities, new edens where america's rising middle class could frolic and play. he also agreed to lay a foundation for the city on both sides of the river. as more and more whites moved in, segregation took hold and much of the bahamian community was forced into the black neighborhoods like overtown. if you're looking for old miami, original miami, you're looking to a great extent for black
>> your parents were jamaican and bahamian. >> yes. my mother was bahamian. my dad was jamaican. >> today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. >> a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> oh, yeah. one night we'd have rice and peas. the other night we'd have peas and rice. >> otherwise known as luke sky walker. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. credited with pioneering what would be called miami bass. maybe you know him from campbell versus rose music. >> how do you end up different growing up in miami than you would growing up in l.a. or new york? >> a lot of people would have said southern people, whatever they want to call us, in all
actuality, we're an island town. miami was made of bahamians that made up the city of miami. now you have different cultures. >> very, very different. >> yeah. >> how was that mix? how has that impacted music? >> when people think about me, this guy makes bootie shaking music. everybody's dancing. everybody is dancing in a sexual way. the girls are standing up on you. the girls stand up on you and put their butt on you. >> i've seen this on television. >> it's no different than a lap dance. >> among your other accomplishments, you ran for office.
>> yeah. >> about 70% residents of miami speak spanish at home. >> uh-huh. >> enormous african-american and caribbean community. how come the state keeps electing conservative white guys? >> conservative white guys, popular pastors, you have a quiet community. you didn't get them excited about voting. >> it is the opposite of get out the vote program. it is don't bother to vote. >> don't bother to vote. take the governors election. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlotte gris would have won the governor's race. >> if you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> best weather. >> how do you handle the cold if you have to tour or something and you have to spin a week or two weeks in detroit or chicago or something? >> my mind-set is i don't have to deal with this every day. i'm going back to sunshine.
when i have that on my mind, i can go into any city. i can go into a blizzard. i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> this is really good. >> back inland, another world of flavors. little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the b&m market is tucked away in the back. they serve some of the dishes that make me happiest. jerk chicken, who doesn't love that? curried goat, roti, and this. cow-foot soup. the real deal, too. flavors, textures, some next level stuff. >> that looks, by the way, unbelievable. that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> the mix of cultures that
we've got. >> what's the worst thing? >> you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people because that's kind of like how i am, and i don't get a hi back here. >> to what do you attribute this? >> the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted. they are from south america, central america. their whole plan is to come here do what they can to send money to their family to live in the home of their dreams and then go back and live with them, which is great. i would probably do the same thing. >> if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, and i mean this absolutely, find some place on the beach and just sink in until my liver-spotted crocodile skin, george hamilton phase, walk up and down metal detecter, that would be me. people who go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> ask me when the last time i went to the beach was.
>> when was the last time i went to the beach. >> about a year and a half ago. >> what the [ muted ] is that? >> we're working. i love it and i always say i will never live in south florida if i didn't live near water. i live near water and i leave my doors open a lot and i get the breeze, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go into my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> okay. ♪ the turtle cove fin club. the team jet runners. what we do is fun. but so is what comes next. in fact what originally brought us together isn't the only thing that keeps us coming back. for friends who come together to reach for better we brew a superior tasting light beer with fewer carbs and calories. michelob ultra. the superior light beer.
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♪ standing here in the rain trying to wash away my singing ♪ ♪ baby gone and left me i don't think she's coming back again ♪ >> before miami bass, before the miami sound machine, there was a miami sound. the music, the original miami sound we're talking about, came from this man, willie clark and this place. >> what was this space originally? >> this was a little restaurant smaller than this and we were on the other side with the record shop. ♪ >> now it looks like a
nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of deep city records. ♪ wake up in the morning willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city, recording and promoting local talent. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank williams and the rocketeers. johnny kilns and the dynamites. >> everything you've ever been credited for for either producing or writing, it is a very, very long list, quite an amazing list. >> it is about 1200. >> 1200 songs. >> it just flows. i'm like a song mechanic. you bring it to me. i'll help you fix it. >> william and his writing partner clarence "blowfly" reed wrote such classics as "clean up woman" and "rocking chair." deep city was miami's answer to motown, unique sound. >> 50 years, 100 years from now, if you were to do an internet search and punch in the miami sound, your name is going to
come up right away as principal creator of the miami sound. what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican, and people came down from georgia and alabama, but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> right. >> we would have bands who would march from overtown all the way to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and the marching, i would say that was the main difference. >> and you were teaching school during a lot of this period? >> yeah, i was teaching school. i would look around, put my sign in, and walk out the back door
and go straight to the studio. but you know, the principal knew what i was doing. >> yep. >> i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> you're still out there so your songs are still being played, still being sampled, which is good, right? that's great. >> it weren't for the samples, i don't know what i'd do. the part of the record industry that kept us alive was europe. >> the collectors must go crazy. maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> if i had known back then, i guess we would still be over there. biggest motown or bigger. >> this is an island, isn't it?
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♪ another day, another country. miami is like that. you could eat your way across the caribbean and latin america and over to africa if you like, it's all there. the plaza is venezuela lan and if you know me i like few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else mutant versions of the giant hamburger, and this one -- this one is something special.
>> this is the deal. this is all venezuelan, which means everything is protein on protein on protein and it is all about the sauces. we're going to do this. absolutely, right? okay. >> what is this neighborhood? >> some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody speaking spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> most people in miami speak spanish at home. >> yeah. >> even if they are not latin. you have to speak spanish. >> meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, potatoes and cheese. it's big. big i tells ya. you got to demolish it in stages like you're imploding a casino or like a hyena devouring an antelope by the hoof. you have to enjoy it in stages. >> i'm going to start crying.
all right. i'm going in. good god. ♪ >> yes or no? >> it's delicious, but -- >> it's a little much, right? >> there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> this is open until 4:00 a.m. so there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of everything that ever ailed you. >> long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latin america, miami was also an inviting place for americans who just wanted to get off the grid, live differently, and make their own rules.
if you have ever read the excellent travis mcgee novels, you'll remember travis. the mystery solving boat bum who lived on a houseboat in miami. the busted flush. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river. >> we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. but yeah, it's a good life. >> i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just degenerate wind addicts. this is more of a lifestyle choice for you. >> it is.
it's got a machine shop on board. i kind of wanted to go down to the bahamas and get the boat to earn its own keep. of course the economy tanked and now i'm livin' on it. >> the 25-ton steel hulled achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to soon. >> who else lives like you? >> it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> how long do you think you've got? >> six months, a year? >> really? >> that complex that's going up right there, you see the tower crane. we sit there and watch them put the buildings up and they're -- >> coming closer. >> -- creeping this way. >> you're not moving onto land anytime soon if you can avoid it? >> no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on.
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and then it is. so you've been here how many years now? >> 15 years. >> 15 years. you're a floridian. >> yeah. >> when i was young, this man was a role model, an ideal, a roadmap for bad behavior. his music, it turned out, was the soundtrack for most of my life. still is. james osterburg of muskegon, michigan, known still all over the world as iggy pop. >> you grew up in michigan, you've lived in new york for a long period of time. >> i went from michigan to london. i went from london to hollywood, which was rough. hollywood to berlin, which was great. back to london. and new york from '79 to '99. >> was it a conceivable option at any point, i can live in florida? >> it wasn't for me. i was hustling. hustling in a big city.
it just kind of happened by chance. i had a shady friend who owned a condo here, and thought, well, this is a nice, little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach any time you wanted and beach any time you wanted and beach any time you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that and it was safe and free. and i thought, that's a -- this is beautiful. ♪ >> so we're eating healthy today? >> yeah. >> what do you like here? >> i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room that all those years later i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop. barbecue shrimp for the
godfather of punk. i get wild and crazy with some roast pork. a little white wine, our only tilt toward the debauches of previous lives. >> i well remember the first stooges album coming out, the context of the time. this was, what, '69? >> '69, august. >> in a lot of ways as far as looking after my health, your music early on was a negative example. >> i hear you. >> and looking at my own life and career, i'm pretty much known for traveling around the world and recklessly drinking and eating to excess. >> sure. >> what does it say about us that we're now sitting in a healthy restaurant, i just came from the gym, and we're in florida? >> listen, if you just flamed out, you're in -- you know, you're in such voluminous and undistinguished company and all your works will flame out quicker with you. ♪ >> what's the perfect day in miami? >> it's a clear morning. hot. hot and humid.
no moderate or any of that crap. no. hot, hot, humid. the sun comes up in a hazy tropical orange orb, and you're not working. you're not on a schedule. and you have no meetings, but you have somebody fun to spend the time with. and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right overhead yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water. and the sparkle is very nice. so, positive. ♪ >> you're the template for the rock star, meaning other rock stars sort of look to you to figure out how should i behave? along with that, look, even at its -- even if you're broke, you're a guy at various points in life has pretty much been one way or the other have been able
to have a lot of things ordinary people would never have. you've had many, many adventures. >> i know -- >> given that, what thrills you? >> the nicest stuff right now, this is very embarrassing, but it's really -- being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪ i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> is this the reward phase of your life or is it just dumb [ muted ]?
>> it is moosly is a reward phase for stuff i did up until the age of 30. stuff you had to do on instinct and not intelligence. >> see, i think you deserve it. but when i look at my own life, you know, i'm actually -- i'm ambivalent. i mean, i'm still not so sure. you know? >> i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> it's my only virtue. >> there you go. all right. curious is a good thing to be. it seems to pay some unexpected dividends. ♪ i am a passenger and i ride and ride ♪ ♪ i ride through the city ♪ i see the stars come out of the sky ♪ ♪ so let's ride and ride and ride and ride ♪ >> i guess that's what it comes down to. all of it. led here. i write a book, i get a tv show,