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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  September 11, 2015 7:00pm-8:01pm PDT

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>> this is the story of one man, one chef and a city. also, it's about france and a lot of other chefs. and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of astronomy. it's about a family tree, about the trunk from which many branchs grew. and it's about food vr; lots of food; great food; some of the greatest food on earth.
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>> and, as importantly, influenced nearly all the rest of them. >> it's really positioned between the north and the south. >> the second largest city in france, situated southeast of the country midway between the al pss in the east and the med terrain yan in the south. >> this was a bottleneck when cars began the mode of transportation.
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he came from here from the city of great kitchens and then his flag show. >> so when did you start working? >> 1969. >> he started at the very bottom. as a 14-year-old apprentice. they used to call me the beaver. i was washing every single day. they make you clean the vegetable, they make you carry all the boxes from the market. >> 14. you can't do that anymore. >> you can't work 12 hours a day. and pay maybe a buck a month.
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>> the art, you can't live without it. >> terrain, pate, sausages, it's an art that's revered here and widely enjoyed. few names have gone with more respect.
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this is the story of one man, one chef, and a city. but not too finely chopped leek. you do not want to get your hand caught in one of these things. then mixed to smooth perfection with a dough hook. >> lot of work. >> spread out and layered for consistent seasoning, formed into shapes and smacked to remove air bubbles. >> make sure the meat gets really tight. >> into the sausage machine and piped into organic casings. trust me, it ain't easy. >> very light touch. >> let's see now, wise guy. come on. let's see this. that's how you get pregnant. >> it's all in the meat. >> yeah. >> just release at the end.
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>> it's a serious workplace but with production nearly done, this being france and all, it's time for a snack and some wine. >> doing what i'm good at. eating. >> this is the saucisson. >> this is so good. >> sabodet. >> sabodet, another of lyon's most famous sausages is made primarily from pig's head with pork belly, pork shoulder, brandy, nutmeg, and allspice mixed in for flavor. >> man, it's good. >> that's what we're going to eat with my father. >> oh, yeah? >> i'm going to get some here. >> [ speaking foreign language ]. >> he knows he does really good work. >> huh? >> he knows how good his stuff is. cheers. nice -- it's a beautiful day in
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lyon. >> yeah. >> in lyon, a city that believes absolutely in the power of food, one name is everywhere. the name that brought honor, attention and millions of visitors to the city. though there have been many chef heroes in the annals of gastronomy, in lyon and even across france, one name stands above all others. murals, bridges, markets, casual brasserie, the name of monsieur paul is everywhere. but one of his most enduring institutions is this. la institute bocuse. one of the nation's great culinary schools. now, just to give you an idea of the standards here, the kind of traditional dishes, baseline old school fundamentals you're expected to master before you move on at becoming a creative genius all your own, meet these guys. matthew vianet, joseph viola and the institute's top dog, alain lacosec.
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chefs and m.o.f.s all. otherwise known as muffs. >> pretty much pay your flight home, private. >> master chefs. >> every four years, they have this m.o.f. competition. >> m.o.f. is -- >> meilleur ouvrier of france. >> the master craftsmen of france. >> there's about 30 discipline of craftsmen where you can acquire the m.o.f. >> see that red, white and blue around their necks? that means they made it through the brutally, unreasonably rigorous competition that pits hundreds of top chefs against each other, where only a handful survive. >> so basically, four or five every four years. >> certified by the highest in the land as being at the very top of the top of their professions. m.o.f. challenges often include ultra old-school classics not
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unlike the one we're making today. pouillard au visse. slipped under the breasts of chickens from bresse, the rolls-royce of chickens. it's then tied, slipped inside a pig's bladder and steamed until tender. >> the idea is to concentrate the flavor of the truffle inside the bladder. the dish they choose, it's always in reference to a chef of the past. and this was a dish brassier as doing. >> the at times brutal world of the michelin kitchen looks much of the time like a boys' club.
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but where do they come from? if we track back a bit to where it all began for lyon and for many of the chefs whose names we now know and look up to, it all goes back to here. la mer brazier, the godmother, the original master. teacher, chef, force. two restaurants with three michelin stars. an achievement no one, male or female, had ever attained and for many years, lyon's most famous chef. her influence runs right through every kitchen that's come since and her graduates carry on her recipes and her traditions. this was one of hers, a signature. >> for the next hour, you keep putting hot bouillon like this. the most miserable thing is when the bladder explodes. >> that's never a good thing
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when a bladder explodes. >> as the chicken cook, the bladder start to really expand. you have to talk to your bladder. >> i do all the time, believe me. please hold up, please hold up. not here. people are looking. wait until you get in between cars. >> a rather luxurious sauce of more, much more black truffle and generous amounts of foie gras and triple cream. perfect. nice milkshake. slightly pink around the legs but cooked through, the flesh perfumed by the generous slices of truffle. >> who gets to eat like this? we do. >> how is it, tony? >> divine. >> you see the perfect balance in the sauce. if i was a chicken, that's the way i would like to end up. >> even if i weren't a chicken,
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i'd want to go like this. die surrounded by truffles and foie gras and fine wine. >> merci. just might be the one. to clean the oceans, to start a movement, or lead a country. it may not be obvious yet, but one of these kids is going to change the world. we just need to make sure she has what she needs. welcome to windows 10. the future starts now for all of us.
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the roaring of a powerful engine. the screech of rubber and off we go. kings of the road in our citroen deux chevaux. two horse power classic. >> no power steering, huh? >> you're kidding. >> it's like a toy car. >> we're going back in time a bit, to the area where daniel grew up, where life was very different from new york. were you the misfit of the family, rebellious or -- >> i was quite rebellious. my parents were talking to me about the idea of taking over the farm. as the oldest son, that would have been the logical thing. >> right. the farmer's life was not for
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you. >> no. >> he grew up in a true farm family. you milk the cows, tended the animals. daniel claims he never even saw processed food until he was a teenager. [ engine turning ] [ speaking in french ] >> a brief respite by the side of the road and some passersby are apparently less appreciative of fine automobiles than we are. a short consultation with an automotive professional and we are back on the road, back in this case to school. this was daniel's old elementary school in the nearby town of st. pierre de chambio. i'm automatically taken back to memories of my own school days. the smell of caustic pine cleaner, chalkboards and fear.
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the cruel ministrations of tiny-eyed lunch ladies slopping canloads of prison chow into steam tables. chipped beef, tuna noodle surprise, and powdered mashed potatoes that haunt my sense memories still. >> pumpkin soup today with onion, nutmeg and chicken stock. but basic good pumpkin soup. >> this is marie, head chef, cook, host and server for 320 hungry and very discriminating french schoolchildren ages 3 to 12. on the menu price fixe today, a pumpkin soup, a fresh blankette de broissot served with homemade couscous and a sauce supreme. >> this is a very sophisticated meal for children. i was a little -- in school, frankly. like a lot of other students, i want pizza, pizza, pizza, are
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the children here open to variety? >> [ speaking french ]. >> we want to make sure they always get a little challenged by how the food looks and the smell and also the taste after. i think she has a very strict budget. >> in the usa, greatest country in the world no doubt, we spend an average of $2.75 per student for public school lunch. compare and contrast. >> $1.50. >> did you eat this well when you were here? >> absolutely. >> bonjour. >> bonjour. daniel. ca va? >> the kids attack their food like hungry trenchmen, wiping out three servings in the time it takes me to eat one. i guess they like it. >> it's good. >> delicious. >> yeah, this is good.
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>> i tell you, i don't think my chef in new york would do better. >> it would go well with wine, too. >> you're going to jail for that in the states. these kids eat fast. look how fast this kid eats. turn your head, he'll eat your food right out of your plate. push up your tray just like in prison, move it along. move it along. >> they come to you and serve you. most important thing that we see here is the love mary give to the food she make and to the kids she serves. i think it has a lot to do with the reaction they have to food. >> dessert is homemade fromage blanc, farmer cheese with chocolate and orange segments. >> what do you want to be when you grow up? fireman. [ speaking french ]
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>> generate machine gun. >> and he wants to make -- >> engineer machine gun, yeah. >> okay. keep an eye on that one. all right. >> for a dope fiend, feeding the monkey means finding and sticking with heroin. for one poor guy, it's this. french food. in particular, lyonnaise food. the cautionary tale of bill buford. writer, editor, literary lion with a perfectly good job as fiction editor at the prestigious "new yorker" magazine. at the undignified age of 53 he pretty much pulled up stakes, put his whole past life on hold, and defected to france, to learn how to cook. what happened to you anyway, buford? you used to have a good job, you hung out a couple nights with batali and next thing you know
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you're living in france. >> it's true. >> and cooking. >> i discovered a whole world that the rest of the world didn't seem to know about, just a very compressed and tense lifelong learned expertise and knowledge of food. it's not the food network and it's not glossy magazines and it's not something you get from reading a recipe book. it's something you get by just going deep. i was afraid of france because i knew if i went -- took on the subject of french food i would have to go really deep. so we went and we thought we'd stay for six months, and we stayed for five years. >> we meet at bouchon contrel. a bouchon is a uniquely lyonnaise institution, a casual laid-back kind of pub/bistro with a limited old school menu and always, always an unpretentious vibe. people come here to unwind, to relax, and to eat with abandon. >> so you say outright recently in one of your published works that lyon is better than paris. >> lyon is a dark, tragic, beautiful, well-eating city. and everybody here knows they
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have a really good life, and they don't give a flying fig if anybody else knows about it because they don't actually want visitors. >> if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent the bouchon lyonnaise, it would have to be the canel broche. a not particularly fabulous river fish, pike, folded into a light dough until fluffy and airy but still rich, adrift in a rich creamy, almost bisque-like nontoi sauce made with crayfish, creme fraiche, brandy, a splash of wine. >> pretty amazing. >> it's kind of a nice mix of france and italy. >> gentlemen, good to see you. >> what a treat to eat together in lyon. in lyon.
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understand a place, love it the way it deserves to be loved, maybe you have to live there. bill buford did just that and made lyon his home. today he's taking me somewhere only someone from the home team could be expected to know about. >> it's a beautiful day. the sky is blue, we're feeling the seasons changing and we're about to go into a dark room, and you eat a very lyonnaise
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menu and you drink a vast quantity of lyonaise wine. >> and what sinister bodies will be in there? >> the only kind of people who would do this kind of thing on a bright pretty day, it's a very male tradition. you work hard, you drink harder. ♪ >> oh! >> uh-oh. >> don't be afraid. >> don't be afraid. >> the mysterious, fabulous, goofy, wonderful bro-fests called franc machon are basically eating and drinking societies that go back over a century, when the silk workers of lyon would finish their night shifts early in the morning. hungry and looking to get, shall we say, completely hammered, they take over a bouchon, stuff their faces like heroes, blow off the proverbial steam in
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decidedly french fashion, which is to say no freaking guytalian nachos or mozzarella sticks for these boys. hell, no. >> how often do you do this? >> eight times a year. >> it's a very lyonaise society, some secret. >> all of them have special memberships? >> there must be 50 of those that i know about. you are invited to be a member and remain a member the rest of your life. >> the food is invariably deliciously dinosauric and heavy yet always glorious classics like blancette davo, the slow and slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal with mushrooms served over rice. hunks of bread and wine, local beaujolais of course. and lots of it. >> sante. >> sante. >> no politics, no religion. >> and it works.
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for 50 years. >> yes. >> do women have machon, their own organizations? >> yes. >> there are. so somewhere on the other side of town, there are a lot of women sitting around drinking wine, eating blancette and bitching about the men? uh-oh. >> then there will be, yes, singing. and no doubt the telling of lusty jokes followed by serious official business. [ singing ] ♪ ♪ >> alongside and some say above the names of the other culinary giants in and around lyon is the name troisgros. started by the visionary brothers jean and pierre, troisgros received three michelin stars and started a dynasty of excellence that continues today with pierre's son michel and his son cesar. >> my dream was always to put
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maison troisgros on my resume. >> bonjour. >> many have called maison troisgros the best restaurant in the world. and in the '60s the brothers pierre and jean were early, important, and fundamental innovators of what came to be known as nouvelle cuisine. behold, one of their breakout classics. one of the truly game-changing, timeless, most influential dishes in history. it seems now maybe a simple thing, but it absolutely turned the world upside down when it debuts on the troisgros menu in 1962. >> when you have a dish this legendary, this iconic, there's no escaping it. the rolling stones will always have to play "jumping jack flash." if you google troisgros, you
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will see this thing. >> forget everything you have seen on google. >> before this, fish was generally overcooked. it was served alongside elaborate garnishes, starches, vegetables. this simple, elegant, almost japanese ode to flavor changed the way we cook fish in restaurants today. and how we make sauces, what our plates look like. >> i remember seeing a picture of this as a young man. i'm getting goosebumps seeing this. thrilling. perfect. >> it's beautiful. >> it's all about the technique. the moment you put the fish in the pan. the moment you put the sauce. it's very important. >> all right. >> from now to you in the dining room will take about one minute. >> right. >> one minute is the time when
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it's perfect. >> because it's cooking all the way. mm. perfect. it's a perfect dish. it's really one of the great ideas of the 20th century. fashionable. >> sexy. when in lyon, one can't help but see a line from there, from the rustic dishes of the farm and the bouchon, to here, the classics of the great tables of europe. all roads lead here. a major trunk of the tree that goes back to karem and beyond. monsieur paul bocuse. the brigade. the way it is done and has always been done since escoffier instituted a military-style hierarchy into the kitchen. where the only acceptable where the only acceptable ourselves healthy. i'll go change.
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who knows, one of these kids just might be the one. to clean the oceans, to start a movement, or lead a country. it may not be obvious yet, but one of these kids is going to change the world. we just need to make sure she has what she needs. welcome to windows 10. the future starts now for all of us.
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♪ so me and daniel were going hunting, and over lunch we mentioned that fact to paul bocuse, who immediately insisted, insisted that if we wanted to go duck hunting, we should come by his crib, and so we find ourselves in the morning mist of le dome, a rural area about a half hour outside lyon. and sure enough, in spite of his 88 years and the fact that he's been less than well, 9:00 a.m. on the nose, there he is, sitting on top of his beloved john deere with his faithful dog festand ready to go. >> nice fresh morning. >> that dog is happy.
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>> the great chef loves this place, and you can see why. ♪ >> monsieur paul can't safely hunt but is happy to chase around flushing birds for us. [ gunshots ] >> beautiful. >> yeah, it is beautiful. i could do this all day. that was about as good as we're going to get. >> you got a bullet to sell, i hope. >> if you look long enough, you start hallucinating. you start hallucinating ducks where there aren't any. [ gunshots ] >> you see that one falling? >> okay, not a moment to waste. quickly, a second shot. okay. >> you got it? >> yeah. right there. >> festand! >> between me and daniel and festand the dog, we managed to actually bag a few ducks. >> good job. very good. >> easy shot.
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>> then it's back to the lodge, clearly bocuse's happy place, where we meet up with some hunting buddies of the great chef. >> you did a good job, no? >> success. >> yeah. it's fantastic. >> is this the hunting lodge, the weekend getaway, hang out with the guys? >> that's where he comes every day, almost. look at the picture behind. you see? >> for tonight's meal, we pluck and roast some woodcocks over an open fire. cook up some well-aged duck and pheasant. >> they made this at the auberge paul bocuse. it's a swiss style mashed potato. >> is it predominantly butter or predominantly potato? >> is there a head in there somewhere? >> yes, of course. >> that's happiness right there. >> my father used to say -- used
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to say, i am a man of simple needs. and i notice that the chef. a nice fire, some birds. >> we can spend the whole week with paul, and we'll be hunting, we'll be cooking, we'll be eating, drinking, and talking. and that's beautiful. >> life is good. >> it is for me a dream to spend this time with a legend. but i'm thrilled that bocuse seems too genuinely delighted. >> you see, it's the one behind you? >> in lyon and all across france he's monsieur paul, the great
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chef, a public figure, a hero, an institution, always treated with the greatest deference. here it appears he's free to enjoy the simple things with friends and local farmers who talk to him like anybody else. it's a pretty damn magical thing to see. ♪ daniel may be a three-star michelin chef, but like so many of his predecessors he's basically a farm boy at heart. he grew up milking cows and doing farm work here, on his family's spread. there is, it turns out, something of a restaurant tradition to build on. the house on his farm was once a small cafe as well, operated first by his grandparents and great-grandparents. the famous cafe boulud, it turns
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daniel may be a three-star michelin chef, but like so many of his predecessors he's basically a farm boy at heart. he grew up milking cows and doing farm work here, on his family's spread. there is, it turns out, something of a restaurant tradition to build on. the house on his farm was once a small cafe as well, operated
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first by his grandparents and great-grandparents. the famous cafe boulud, it turns out, was not the first place to bear that name. >> they kept it about 80 years, 100 years, and then they closed it. >> no, no. >> meeting daniel's dad, one begins to understand the roots of his perfectionism. his mom, dad, wife catherine, and daniel collaborate. with some debate. on a super old school farmhouse classic. the sort of thing that good times, bad times, a family could make with stuff that's always readily available on the farm. check this out. it's a hollowed out pumpkin layered with toasted hunks of stale country bread, which monsieur boulud sr. bakes himself. nutmeg, grated gruyere cheese,
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mushrooms, fresh cream from the cows, and the meat of the pumpkin. >> and layer of bacon also. homemade pancette. very good. oh, man, it's heavy. we made it. >> is he concerned the pumpkin's going to try to get out? >> daniel's dad can be something of a gaulic mcguyver. you don't waste stuff around here, and he's a bit of an inventor anyway. look at this. an old washing machine turned still. >> what the hell is that? >> so underneath we have the -- but to seal it there's cement. it's not distilled yet, just fermented. >> leftover grape solids from the wine-making process usually used to make liquor like grappa. today a different use. if we can get it out of here. >> why did you put so much
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cement on it? >> we'll be using this delightfully funky stuff to flavor the steam that cooks the vegetables and the sabodet sausages from mr. reynon inside the still. >> and we come back in an hour. >> at dusk we settle for dinner. >> look at that. >> there is the pumpkin. >> incredible. look at that. wow. >> the pumpkin is amazing. we also have that great sabodet sauce mg from mr. reynon. >> look at that. >> cabbage and potatoes. all steamed in the still. >> the flavor you get from the fermented grape, awesome. >> yeah, it's awesome, huh? >> good. so good. >> and if you know daniel at all, he can't really help himself. he's popping up and down,
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serving everybody, making sure everything's just right. and sitting here with his family in the house he grew up in, you can see where it all comes from. >> madame and monsieur, their son, he's now a gigantic international success. but when he was a young man at 14 sneezing in a field, did they
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ever anticipate this? no? no early indications of greatness? but there is a line, isn't there, from the farm and haute cuisine? they all reflect the region hopefully. but in the best case they're interdependent, they come from each other. who cooks in the great restaurants? farm boys, basically. that's who always cooked. my deepest thanks to your mother and your father. thank you. >> merci. next time my father make you drive the tractor.

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