tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN October 16, 2015 11:30pm-12:31am PDT
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who got here first? who other than say some early native american tribes and spaniards? caribbean blacks, most of whom were bahamian. bahamians figured heavily in the early development of south florida, which began in earnest with the construction of railroads in the late 19th and 20th centuries by this guy. henry morrison flagger, the tycoon largely credited with big the father of modern florida. his dream was the florida east coast railway, which would run from jacksonville to key west connecting the ports of miami to the rail system of the rest of the united states, creating along its route new towns, new cities, new edens where
america's rising middle class could frolic and play. he also agreed to lay a foundation for the city on both sides of the river. as more and more whites moved in, segregation took hold and much of the bahamian community was forced into the black neighborhoods like overtown. if you're looking for old miami, original miami, you're looking to a great extent for black miami. ♪ ♪ ♪ these days liberty city is mostly ignored by developers, but back in the day it was the epicenter of the black
community. a lot has happened since then. >> corn beef, pancakes, smoked sausage, boiled eggs. >> what do you usually get? >> the fishy grits. that's a bahamian dish. >> your parents were jamaican and bahamian. >> yes. my mother was bahamian. my dad was jamaican. >> today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. >> a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> oh, yeah. one night we'd have rice and peas. the other night we'd have peas and rice. >> otherwise known as luke sky walker. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. credited with pioneering what would be called miami bass. maybe you know him from campbell
versus rose music. >> how do you end up different growing up in miami than you would growing up in l.a. or new york? >> a lot of people would have said southern people, whatever they want to call us, in all actuality, we're an island town. >> very, very different. >> yeah. >> how was that mix? how has that impacted music? >> when people think about me, this guy makes bootie shaking music. everybody's dancing. everybody is dancing in a sexual
way. the girls are standing up on you. the girls stand up on you and put their butt on you. >> i've seen this on television. >> it's no different than a lap dance. >> among your other accomplishments, you ran for office. >> yeah. >> about 70% residents of miami speak spanish at home. >> uh-huh. >> enormous african-american and caribbean community. how come the state keeps electing conservative white guys? >> you have a whole quiet community. you didn't get them excited about voting. >> it is the opposite of get out the vote program. it is don't bother to vote. >> don't bother to vote. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlotte gris would have won the governor's race.
>> if you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> best weather. >> how do you handle the cold if you have to tour or something and you have to spin a week or two weeks in detroit or chicago or something? >> my mind-set is i don't have to deal with this every day. i'm going back to sunshine. when i have that on my mind, i can go into any city. i can go into a blizzard. i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> this is really good. >> back inland, another world of flavors. little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the b&m market is tucked away in the back. they serve some of the dishes that make me happiest. jerk chicken, who doesn't love that? curried goat, roti, and this. cow-foot soup. flavors, textures, some next level stuff. >> that looks, by the way, unbelievable.
that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> the mix of cultures that we've got. >> what's the worst thing? >> you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people because that's kind of like how i am, and i don't get a hi back here. >> to what do you attribute this? >> the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted. they are from south america, central america. their whole plan is to come here do what they can to send money to their family to live in the home of their dreams and then go back and live with them, which is great. i would probably do the same thing. >> if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, and i mean this absolutely, find some place on the beach and just sink in until my liver-spotted crocodile skin, george hamilton
phase, walk up and down metal detecter, that would be me. people who go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> ask me when the last time i went to the beach was. >> when was the last time i went to the beach. >> about a year and a half ago. >> what the [ muted ] is that? >> we're working. i love it and i always say i will never live in south florida if i didn't live near water. i live near water and i leave my doors open a lot and i get the breeze, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go into my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> okay. take a look at these bbq trophies: best cracked pepper sauce... most ribs eaten while calf roping...
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the music, the original miami sound we're talking about, came from this man, willie clark and this place. >> what was this space originally? >> this was a little restaurant smaller than this and we were on the other side with the record shop. >> now it looks like a nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of deep city records. willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city, recording and promoting local talent. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank williams and the rocketeers. >> everything you've ever been credited for for either producing or writing, it is a very, very long list, quite an amazing list. >> it is about 1200. >> 1200 songs. >> it just flows.
i'm like a song mechanic. you bring it to me. i'll help you fix it. >> william and his writing partner clarence "blowfly" reed wrote such classics as "clean up woman" and "rocking chair." >> 50 years, 100 years from now, if you were to do an internet search and punch in the miami sound, your name is going to come up right away as principal creator of the miami sound. what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican, and people came down from georgia and alabama, but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> right. >> we would have bands who would march from overtown all the way
to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and the marching, i would say that was the main difference. >> and you were teaching school during a lot of this period? >> yeah, i was teaching school. i would look around, put my sign in, and walk out the back door and go straight to the studio. but you know, the principal knew what i was doing. >> yep. >> i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> you're still out there so your songs are still being
played, still being sampled, which is good, right? that's great. >> it weren't for the samples, i don't know what i'd do. the part of the record industry that kept us alive was europe. >> the collectors must go crazy. maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> if i had known back then, i guess we would still be over there. biggest motown or bigger. >> this is an island, isn't it? it is kind of an island. >> i think it's worse than an island. ♪ darling i'm willing to forget about our past ♪ ♪ darling i'm able to make our love last ♪ ♪ i'm a one man's woman and i'm willing and able to be loved ♪ ♪ oh yes i am yeah yeah yeah
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the plaza is venezuelan. if you know anything about me, you know i love few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else, mutant versions of the giant hamburger and this one, this one is something special. >> this is the deal. this is all venezuelan, which means everything is protein on protein on protein and it is all about the sauces. we're going to do this. absolutely, right? okay. >> what is this neighborhood? >> some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody speaking spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> most people in miami speak spanish at home. >> yeah. >> even if they are not latin. you have to speak spanish.
>> meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, potatoes and cheese. it's big. big i tells ya. you got to demolish it in stages like you're imploding a casino or like a hyena devouring an antelope by the hoof. you have to enjoy it in stages. >> i'm going to start crying. all right. i'm going in. good god. >> yes or no? >> it's delicious, but -- >> it's a little much, right? >> there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> this is open until 4:00 a.m. so there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of
everything that ever ailed you. >> long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latin america, miami was also an inviting place for americans who just wanted to get off the grid, live differently, and make their own rules. you'll remember travis, the mystery solving boat bum who lived on a houseboat in miami. the busted flush. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river.
>> we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. but yeah, it's a good life. >> i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just degenerate wind addicts. this is more of a lifestyle choice for you. >> it is. it's got a machine shop on board. i kind of wanted to go down to the bahamas and get the boat to earn its own keep. >> the steel hulled achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to soon. >> who else lives like you? >> it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> how long do you think you've got? >> six months, a year? >> yeah. >> that complex that's going up
right there, you see the tower crane. we sit there and watch them put the buildings up and they're -- >> coming closer. >> -- creeping this way. >> you're not moving onto land anytime soon if you can avoid it? >> no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on. ♪ igh hopes, but hope... doesn't work on wrinkles. clinically proven neutrogena® rapid wrinkle repair with the fastest retinol formula available, it works on fine lines and even deep wrinkles. you'll see younger looking skin in just one week. stop hoping for results, and start seeing them. rapid wrinkle repair... ...and for dark spots rapid tone repair. from neutrogena®.
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♪ miami's the kind of place you say that could never be me. and then it is. so you've been here how many years now? >> 15 years. >> 15 years. you're a floridian. >> yeah. >> when i was young, this man was a role model, an ideal, a roadmap for bad behavior. his music, it turned out, was the soundtrack for most of my life. still is. james osterburg of muskegon, michigan, known still all over the world as iggy pop.
>> you grew up in michigan, you've lived in new york for a long period of time. >> i went from michigan to london. i went from london to hollywood, which was rough. hollywood to berlin, which was great. back to london. and new york from '79 to '99. >> was it a conceivable option at any point, i can live in florida? >> it wasn't for me. i was hustling. hustling in a big city. it just kind of happened by chance. i had a shady friend who owned a condo here, and thought, well, this is a nice, little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach any time you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that and it was safe and free. and i thought, that's a -- this ing is beautiful. ♪
>> so we're eating healthy today? >> yeah. >> what do you like here? >> i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room that all those years later i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop. barbecue shrimp for the godfather of punk. i get wild and crazy with some roast pork. a little white wine, our only tilt toward the debauches of previous lives. >> i well remember the first stooges album coming out, the context of the time. this was, what, '69? >> '69, august. >> in a lot of ways as far as looking after my health, your music early on was a negative example. >> i hear you. >> and looking at my own life and career, i'm pretty much known for traveling around the world and recklessly drinking and eating to excess. >> sure. >> what does it say about us that we're now sitting in a healthy restaurant, i just came from the gym, and we're in florida? >> listen, if you just flamed
out, you're in -- you know, you're in such voluminous and undistinguished company and all your works will flame out quicker with you. ♪ >> what's the perfect day in miami? >> it's a clear morning. hot. hot and humid. no moderate or any of that crap. no. hot, hot, humid. the sun comes up in a hazy tropical orange orb, and you're not working. you're not on a schedule. and you have no meetings, but you have somebody fun to spend the time with. and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right overhead yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water. and the sparkle is very nice.
so, positive. ♪ >> you're the template for the rock star, meaning other rock stars sort of look to you to figure out how should i behave? along with that, look, even at its -- even if you're broke, you're a guy at various points in life has pretty much been one way or the other have been able to have a lot of things ordinary people would never have. you've had many, many adventures. >> i know -- >> given that, what thrills you? >> the nicest stuff right now, this is very embarrassing, but it's really -- being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪
i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> is this the reward phase of your life or is it just dumb [ muted ]? >> it's been emotionally i think a reward phase for stuff i did up until the age 30. stuff you had to do on instinct and not on intelligence. >> see, i think you deserve it. but when i look at my own life, you know, i'm actually -- i'm ambivalent. i mean, i'm still not so sure. you know? >> i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> it's my only virtue. >> there you go. all right. curious is a good thing to be. it seems to pay some unexpected dividends. ♪ i am a passenger and i ride
and ride ♪ ♪ i ride through the city ♪ i see the stars come out of the sky ♪ ♪ so let's ride and ride and ride and ride ♪ >> i guess that's what it comes down to. all of it. led here. i write a book, i get a tv show, i live my dreams, i meet my hero. two old men on a beach. ♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ this is where i bought my first bag of heroin. it was 1980, i was 24 years old. but in a lot of ways, my whole
life up to that point was leading to this address. western massachusetts, the unlikely new frontier of america's war on drugs where heroin has become an exploding problem that's begun to touch nearly every family. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪
there's nothing like the north atlantic. it's majestic. i love the beach. pretty much had my first everything on a beach. you name it, first time i did it, beach. i was miserable in love, happy in love, alternately, as only a 17-year-old could be. this is where i lived. very happy summer in the early '70s, and that was my room on the left. it's an amazing spot if you think about it, a bunch of knuckle heads working as dish washers, pizza servers. we could work on a beach like this. happier, stupider times. you know, i can still hear the play list, the brothers johnson. if you put on marvin gaye right now, i'd burst into tears.
what do you do? you're young, you go to the beach, you know, you get laid, and you get high. it was here, all the way out at the tip of cape cod, provincetown, massachusetts, where the pilgrims first landed. and it was where i first landed. 1972, washed in a town with a head full of orange sunshine and a few friends. provincetown, a wonderland of tolerance, long-time tradition of accepting artists, writers, the badly behaved, the gay, the different. it was paradise. the joy that can only come with an absolute certainty that you're invincible. that none of the choices that you make will have any repercussions or any effect on your later life. we didn't think about those things. i don't even know what i thought i was going to be. at that point, i certainly didn't think i was going to be a cook. i don't know what i thought i
was going to be. i was just, you know, hanging out in a beautiful place. >> a golden time, i look back on those fuzzy memories and they seem golden anyway. oh, there's john waters. first love, and there's me. this guy, johnny yingling was sort of a central figure in all of our lives. >> well, my name is john yingling, and this is spiritist pizza, its been here since 1971. this town is everything to me. provincetown is a really special place where people can be themselves. we all did drugs, acted young and crazy, and tony was, he was probably a little wilder than some and not as wild as others. but he was always the guy who i always liked. >> and you let me sleep on top of the walk-in. >> i remember that. >> i cannot tell you how frequently i dream about the pizza. i'm walking down commercial street, and i'm sort of dimly aware that spiritist has moved
and there's a sense of dislocation and a loss as i stumble around this sort of provincetown dreamscape of 40 years ago. i was still here and living in hope. unbelievable. >> many of the old places in p-town are gone. but the lobster pot is still going strong, all these years later. and still has what i want and need. the essentials. my friends worked in the kitchen here, starting the tradition among my set that cooking work was noble toil. at that point i never intended a career as a chef. >> it's great to be a cook. >> i was getting to that. yes. >> this is homemade portuguese kale soup, made on the premises. >> its been a long time, thank you. >> enjoy. >> portuguese soup, a p-town version and just what i remembered. kale, fiery red chorizo, kidney
beans, potatoes. oh, i missed you. i missed you bad. and that was precisely what i loved about the food here. the portuguese thing, dishes like this stuffed cod crusted with ground portuguese sausage, bread crumbs, stuffed with scallop and crab. some sherry, red sauce. i hadn't been working for a while, i was a deadbeat. i mean, i was just just scarfing off everybody else. and he comes from work and says our dishwasher didn't show up today. you are our new dishwasher. and i said, oh, really. and the next day i put on the apron and didn't take it off for 30 years. i'd wake up, all of us go to the beach, hang out on the beach until like 2:00, 3:00. >> yeah, it was fun. >> roll into work. work all night. drinking, getting high, drilling out food. you have all the food you wanted, all the liquor you wanted. >> all the sex you wanted. >> all the sex you wanted. >> it was true, it was fun. we had a good time. >> and yet you still were an essential part of the economy. >> it was a lot of fun, believe me, i remember. >> the flagship, it's where my
cooking career started. where i started washing dishes, where i started have pretensions of culinary grandeur. >> it was a good gig for anybody. you had to be in a band, here we were, we were dishwashers. >> yeah, you get older and more sense and you realize that like, you know, you got to like pace yourself a little bit. >> otherwise, we still wouldn't be here. well, you know, many of our friends from those days didn't make it. >> many of my friends are dead, yeah. [ applause ] >> as you were. >> keep drinking, keep drinking. thank you. >> thank you, tony. >> this place has been here forever. >> that used to be the back room. >> back room's still there. >> see, it's all falling into place again. >> yeah. it's not that much different. >> it's early spring now, but come memorial day, it gets crazy around here and doesn't stop until labor day. provincetown was always gay-friendly, in my time and
way, way before my time. and this place, the atlantic house known always and forever by locals and visitors alike as the "a" house is america's oldest operating gay bar. everybody has come through these doors, so to speak. most notably, a naked and frolicking tennessee williams. >> no. that's too bad. >> everybody got seasick. and started tripping. now that it's even they all save cocktails so i can get my sea legs back. >> oh, really? >> yeah. >> april owns the joint now. taken over for her father, the legendary reggie, a forward-thinking dude if there ever was one. >> it was built in 1798. >> how long in the family? in your family? >> over 75 years. my father during that time, he had billie holiday appeared, he had ella fitzgerald, all the big names of jazz. >> how has town changed? has it changed? >> i think tremendously.
gay lifestyle is much more accepted. >> okay, 1972, my feeling was that this was a gay town and that i was here at the pleasure of, you know, somebody else. which is sort of the opposite of everywhere outside of here at that time. >> oh, yes. >> this was a largely catholic, portuguese, conservative community fishing town, but it was also known as hell town. >> hell town, this is where the puritans sent their rejects. >> yeah. >> provincetown had the mixture really of the bohemian people and the fishermen, pirates, writers, drunks, all that. >> the lifestyle outside of mainstream was welcome here pretty much. >> whatever floats your boat. you know. it's all good. ♪ ♪ oh how i wish we could both go back to that summer ♪
over a century ago, provincetown was a hard-working fishing village with multigenerational families of fishermen. >> my name's bo gribbon. my father fished, and i was pretty much raised here my whole life. where i'm from. this is who i am. but it used to be like two out of three families in this town, this community, were fishing families. most of them are now gone. and we're really like a minority. used to be a fishing community with a homosexual problem. now it's a homosexual community with a fishing problem. >> the first portuguese fishermen arrived here in 1840. the main families created a community built around fishing, and this town lived off that industry well into the 20th century. it persisted even when i was here, keeping up the blessing of old catholic fishing traditions like the fleet.
these days however, there are fewer and fewer boats to bless. >> my name's scott roe, i'm a commercial fishermen, sea scallops, fourth generation. it was cool back then, started when i was a. 70 and 80 boats here, five or six deep now, now it's just down to like seven or eight. now i'm proud of my heritage and i would never do anything else. this is my office, man, look at it. i'm going to do this until i can't move anymore. >> we were all on the town like clockwork, 2:30, 3:00 in the morning, it's quiet, the town's been ripped up all night long. we come down here, hit the water. what could be better? >> good time to be here, and nice weather today. >> yeah, pretty nice day. >> a little breezy. >> might be a little nautical. a little bit. >> i'm sure i'll be fine, i've watched "the deadliest catch."
>> are you ready? >> i'm ready. >> time to press the fun button. ♪ >> clear. all clear. used to be this was the best thing in the world. we were like the greatest thing about fishing, you were kind of like a cowboy, like a pioneer, you could go out, and as hard as you could push, competition was welcomed. we were fiercely independent. independence is like little by little by little taken away. >> is there a limited number of stuff out there? >> well, there's a total allowable catch, we're on a allowable catch, we're on a 600-pound trip right now. >> and the payout ain't much. do the math, a good day brings in say 9,000 bucks, from that 9,000, take away 3,000 for the lease, 1,000 for fuel, and split the remainder amongst the crew. and on top of that, fishing is a just a crap shoot. many days, there's simply nothing to catch. >> so why the [ bleep ] are you doing this?
>> we love to do it. like for us we say it all turns to it when we come around the break water. once we get out to there, and we feel like we're at home. >> like i said, it ain't easy. today, according to bo, scott, and zeb, this was just a little breeze. >> how rough does it have to be when you look out and say i'm not going out today? >> it starts like blowing like 30, 35. >> we like days like this because the competition stays in. >> really? >> my dad used to say when you're dry, you're not making any money. we're fishing. >> so it's not going to snap
until flying back and cut your head off. >> not too often. no. >> i hate when that happens. >> yeah, it's a bummer. the summer, you'd be able to smell the coconut, another big trick we have. because now the guys decided they like this part of the beach, right. so they're all out here, nude sunbathing. so i pick up my glasses and i tell them, wow, look at the breasts on that girl. and you give it to them and they see something they weren't expecting to see. works every time though. >> i can't believe you didn't cook nothing. >> i can't believe it, man. >> what? >> got anthony bourdain on deck and we don't have nothing to eat. >> the best part of it, the anticipation to see what's in there. >> oh, every time. i'm like i just can't wait. you're like looking and you're like what's going to be in there? what's going to be in there? sometimes it's a disappointment. but a lot of times it's disappointment.
>> how many did we get? >> a few. >> is there? >> all right, we're out. that's why it's fishing and not catching. >> yep. >> it'll taste all that much better. ♪ >> this place was, has been here forever when i rolled into town. how long has that place been open? >> for a long time. >> i think this is the only place in town that's unchanged. >> yeah, how long do i have to drink here to get my face up there? 40 years? >> couple more years. >> back when i worked in town for fishermen, there was the folks cookies, tap room, and this place, the old colony. of the three, it's the only one left. >> yeah, baby. >> oh wait a minute, i recognize these. you guys eat scallops. >> yeah. >> as brawny, hard-working men
of the sea, we deserve these beers, these finest of all oysters, the well fleets. >> wow. >> finest oysters known to man. >> these are fantastic. wow, what a treat. is there going to be a next generation of fishermen in the family? what happens after you guys? >> the next generation of fishermen that are like coming on to our boats, they're opportunists for the income, it's not for the love of being on the water. >> this is the end. the fishing is going to die. cheers. >> all right. thank you, guys. >> cheers. >> this is going to end badly. >> cheers. >> cheers. ♪ >> this is a nice house. man, it just feels like i never left in a lot of ways. but, of course, it's 40 years later almost.
that was the sodom and gomorrah by the sea over there, a big candy store for a horny, stupid, 17-year-old with a taste for chemicals. you know, i was an angry young man. what the hell was so i angry about? it came as a rude surprise when i turned 30 because i figured i'd be dead by then. i was still quite some time away from my first bag of heroin, but, you know, in a lot of ways it was a foregone conclusion, my whole life was leading up to that point. to my first bag of dope. ♪
♪ i left provincetown with restaurant experience, a suntan, and an ever deepening relationship with recreational drugs. i went to culinary school, then to new york city, and never returned. today, however, i'm staying in massachusetts, heading over to the western part of the state, one of the most beautiful areas of the country, the gorgeous mill towns, victorian houses,