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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  August 20, 2016 10:00pm-11:01pm PDT

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i. >> anthony: this is the story of one, one chef and a city and about france and a lot of other chefs and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. and about the it tree from which many branchs grew and about food, lots of food, great food. some of the greatest food on earth. ♪
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♪ found something beautiful in this world i felt the rain getting colder. ♪ ♪ sa-la-sha-la, shala, la, la . i. what is it exactly about this place? over the past century the system here, the tradition, whatever it is that took hold churned out a
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tremendous number of the world's most important chefs. chappell, and as importantly, n influence nearly all of the it rest of them. why here? why all of these great chefs? >> you're between the north and the south. >> anthony: situated midway between the alps in the east and the mediterranean in the south. >> this was also a bottle neck when cars became the mode of transportati transportation. out of that came chefs like this one. he needs only one name. in anywhere or anywhere in the
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chef world, danielle. his restaurant in manhattan. one of many in an empire that stretches from london to singapore. he came from here, through the city's great kitchens through a cirque in new york to his flagship. >> 1969. i started. >> he started at the very bottom, as a 14-year-old apprentice in the restaurant what was your first job in the kitchen? >> they make you clean the vegetables, carry all the boxes from the market. >> anthony: 14. i don't think you can do that anymore. >> i don't think you can work him 12 hours a day and pay him a buck. >> anthony: oh the good old
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days. the right to eat delicious park. >> they wouldn't be without it. >> anthony: tureen, pate, sausages, it's an art revered here and largely enjoyed. and few names garner more respect from aficionados of pick than ray nod. >> anthony: in a relentsly cold room, fat back and belly are fed in a chopper.
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no sprinkling of seasonings and spices. removed in large balls of finely but not too finely chopped meat. you do not want to get your hand caught in one of these things. then mixed to a smooth perfection with adobo. a lot of work. spread out and layered for consistent seasoning, formed into shapes and smacked to remove air balls. >> make sure the meat gets really tight. >> anthony: into the sausage machine and organic casings. trust me, it ain't easy.
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that's how you get pregnant. >> it's all in the meat, just releasedt at the end. >> anthony: it's a serious work place but this being france and all, it's time for a snack and some wine. doing what i'm good at, eating. this is so good. another of leon's most famous sauce nls is made primarily from pig's head, pork shoulder, brandy, nut megand all spice mixed in for flavor. man, it's good. >> this we would eat with my father. i'm going to get some here.
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>> anthony: he knows how good his stuff is. it's a beautiful day in leon. >> yeah. a city that believes absolutely in the power of food, one name is everywhere, a name that brought honor, attention and millions of visitors to the city, though there have been many chef heroes in the annals of gastronomy, one name stands above all others, murals, bridges, markets, casual, the name of miser paul. one of the nations great culinary schools.
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just to give you an idea of the fundamentals you're expected to learn before you become a creative genius all your own, meet these guys. and the institute 's top dog. chefs and mof's all. otherwise known as mufs. >> pretty much pay your flight home, private. master chefs. >> every four years they have this mof competition. the master craftsman of france. >> there are craftman where you can acquire the mof. >> see that red, white and blue, that means they made it through the rigorous competition that pits hundreds of top chefs against each other where only a handful survive.
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>> so, basically four or five every four years. >> certified as being at the very top of the top of their professions. contests often involve old school classics like the one we're making today. trufal are slipped under the chicken breast, the rolls royce of chickens. it's then tied, slipped inside a pig's batter and cooked until tender. >> put the trufal inside the platter. the dish is always in reference to a chef of the past. and this was a dish. >> anthony: it looks much of the time like a boy's club. but where did they come from?
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if we track back a bit to where it all began for many of the chefs whose names we now know and look up to, it all goes back to here. the god mlther, original master. teacher, chef, force. two restaurants with three stars that no chef female or male had ever obtained. and for many years the most famous chef here. her influence runs right through any kitchen that's come since and her graduates carry on her restaurants and her traditions. this is one of hers, a signature. >> for the next hour you keep putting this on like this. the most miserable thing is when the bladder explodes. the bladder starts to really expand. you have to talk to your bladder.
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>> anthony: i do all the time. believe me. please hold up, please hold up. people are looking. wait untle you get between cars. the sauce of more, much more generous black truffle and fau grau and triple cream. perfect. nice milkshake. the generous slices of truffle. who gets to eat like this? >> we do. that was the chicken, that is the way i'd like to end up. >> anthony: even if i wasn't a chicken this is the way i'd like to end up.
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the roaring of a powerful engine and off we go, kings of the road. we're going back in time to where danielle grew up. were you the mist chf of the family? >> i was quite rebellious. my family was talking to me about taking over the farm. as the oldest son, that would be the logical thing. >> anthony: and the farmer's life was not for you?
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>> no. >> anthony: you milked the cows, tended the animals. he claims he never even saw processed food until he was a teenager. >> anthony: a brief respite by the side of the road and some are less appreciative of fine automobiles as we are. a short consultation with an automobile professional and we're back on the road. back in this case to school. this was his old elementary
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school. i'm automatically taken back to memories of my own school days. chalkboards and fear. the cruel ministrations of tiny eyed lunch ladies slopping loads of chow. tuna noodle surprise and powdered mashed potatoes that haunt my sense memories still. >> pumpkin soup today with onion, nutmeg and chicken starch. >> anthony: this is marie, head chef, cook, host and server for 320 very discriminating french school children ages 3 to 12. on the menu a pumpkin soup, a fresh with white wine and served with home made cous cous.
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and this is a very sophisticated meal for children. i was a little -- and i was like pizza, pizza pizza. are they open to variety? >> we want to make sure they always get a challenge by how the food looks and the smell. i think she has a very strict budget. >> anthony: in the u.s.a., greatest country in the world no doubt, we spend an average of $2.75 per student for public school lunch. compare and contrast. did you eat this well when you were here? >> absolutely. they attack their food, wiping out three serveings in the time it takes me to eat one. i guess they like it. it's good. yeah, this is good. >> i don't think my chef in new
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york would do better. >> anthony: and you cook with wine. you're going to jail for that in the states. these kids eat fast. i'll eat your soup right out of your plate. my school lunch room, you pushed up your tray like in prison, move it along. bap, move it along. >> they come to you and serve you. most important thing we see is the love married to the food she makes and to the kids she serves. i think it has a lot to do with the reaction they have to prove. >> anthony: dessert is home made with chocolate and orange segments. >> what do you want be to when you grow up? lion, fireman. machine gun. engineering machine gun. >> anthony: okay. keep an eye on that one. all right.
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>> anthony: for a dope fein, feeding the monkey means finding and sticking with heroin, for one poor guy, it's this, french food. in particular, lyon food. the cautionary title of buferred with a perfectly good job at the prestigious new yorker magazine with the undignified age of 53, he pretty much pulled. stakes put his whole past life on hold and defected to france to learn how to cook. you used to have a good job, hangout a couple of nights with batali and next thing i know you're living in france, cooking. >> i discovered a whole world the rest of the world didn't seem to know about, just an intense, life long learn expertise knowledge in food. it's not the food network and not something you get from
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reading a recipe book but something you get by going deep. i was afraid of france because i knew if i took on the subject of french food, i'd have to go really deep and we thought we'd stay for six months and we stayed for five years. >> we meet at bouchon contrel. a bouchon is a uniquely lyonnaise institution, a casual laid-back kind of pub/bistro with a limited old school menu and always, always an unpretentious vibe. people come here to unwind, to relax, and to eat with abandon. >> so you say outright recently in one of your published works that lyon is better than paris. >> lyon is a dark, tragic, beautiful, well-eating city. and everybody here knows they have a really good life, and they don't give a flying fig if anybody else knows about it because they don't actually want visitors.
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>> anthony: if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent the bouchon lyonnaise, it would have to be the canel broche. a not particularly fabulous river fish, pike, folded into a light dough until fluffy and airy but still rich, adrift in a rich creamy, almost bisque-like nontoi sauce made with crayfish, creme fraiche, brandy, a splash of wine. >> pretty amazing. >> it's kind of a nice mix of france and italy. >> gentlemen, good to see you. >> what a treat to eat together in lyon. (man) honey, what's a word for "large blaze"? (wife] fire. [man] thirteen letters. [wife] fire. [man] thirteen letters. [wife] really big fire!
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[burke] conflagration.seen it. covered it. we know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two. ♪ we are farmers. bum-pa-dum, bum-bum-bum-bum ♪
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if you're really going to understand a place, love it the way it deserves to be loved, maybe you have to live there. bill buford did just that and made lyon his home. today he's taking me somewhere only someone from the home team could be expected to know about. >> it's a beautiful day. the sky is blue, we're feeling the seasons changing and we're about to go into a dark room, and you eat a very lyonnaise menu and you drink a vast quantity of lyonaise wine. >> and what sinister bodies will be in there? >> the only kind of people who
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would do this kind of thing on a bright pretty day, it's a very male tradition. you work hard, you drink harder. ♪ >> oh! >> uh-oh. >> don't be afraid. >> don't be afraid. >> the mysterious, fabulous, goofy, wonderful bro-fests called franc machon are basically eating and drinking societies that go back over a century, when the silk workers of lyon would finish their night shifts early in the morning. hungry and looking to get, shall we say, completely hammered, they take over a bouchon, stuff their faces like heroes, blow off the proveral steam in decidedly french fashion, which is to say no freaking guytalian nachos or mozzarella sticks for these boys. hell, no. >> how often do you do this?
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>> eight times a year. >> it's a very lyonaise society, some secret. >> all of them have special memberships? >> there must be 50 of those that i know about. you are invited to be a member and remain a member the rest of your life. >> the food is invariably deliciously dinosauric and heavy yet always glorious classics like blancette davo, the slow and slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal with mushrooms served over rice. hunks of bread and wine, local beaujolais of course. and lots of it. >> sante. >> sante. >> no politics, no religion. >> and it works. for 50 years. >> yes. >> do women have machon, their own organizations? >> yes. >> there are. so somewhere on the other side of town, there are a lot of women sitting around drinking wine, eating blancette and bitching about the men? uh-oh. >> then there will be, yes, singing. and no doubt the telling of lusty jokes followed by serious official business. [ singing ]
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♪ ♪ >> alongside and some say above the names of the other culinary giants in and around lyon is the name troisgros. started by the visionary brothers jean and pierre, ♪ troisgros received three michelin stars and started a
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dynasty of culinary excellence which continues today with pierre's son michel and his son sei cesar. >> my dream was always to put maison troisgros on my resume. >> bonjour. >> many have called maison troisgros the best restaurant in the world. and in the '60s the brothers pierre and jean were early, important, and fundamental innovators of what came to be known as nouvelle cuisine. behold, one of their breakout classics. one of the truly game-changing, timeless, most influential dishes in history. it seems now maybe a simple thing, but it absolutely turned the world upside down when it debuts on the troisgros menu in 1962. >> when you have a dish this legendary, this iconic, there's
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no escaping it. the rolling stones will always have to play "jumping jack flash." if you google troisgros, you will see this thing. >> forget everything you have seen on google. >> before this, fish was generally overcooked. it was served alongside elaborate garnishes, starches, vegetables. this simple, elegant, almost japanese ode to flavor changed the way we cook fish in restaurants today. and how we make sauces, what our plates look like. >> i remember seeing a picture of this as a young man. i'm getting goosebumps seeing this. thrilling. perfect. >> it's beautiful. >> it's all about the technique. the moment you put the fish in the pan. the moment you put the sauce. it's very important. >> all right. >> from now to you in the dining
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room will take about one minute. >> right. >> one minute is the time when it's perfect. >> anthony: because it's cooking all the way. perfect. it's a perfect dish. it's really one of the great ideas of the 20th century. fashionable. >> sexy. i have smoked for 30 years and by taking chantix, i was able to quit in 3 months and that was amazing. along with support, chantix (varenicline) is proven to help people quit smoking. it absolutely reduced my urge to smoke. some people had changes in behavior, thinking or mood, hostility, agitation,
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♪ when in lyon, one can't help but see a line from there, from the rustic dishes of the farm and the bouchon, to here, the classics of the great tables of europe. all roads lead here. a major trunk of the tree that goes back to karem and beyond. monsieur paul bocuse. the brigade.
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the way it is done and has always been done since escoffier instituted a military-style hierarchy into the kitchen. where the only acceptable response to any question or any command is "oui, chef." this is the special forces, the s.a.s. of cooking. and these cooks live to avoid, and these cooks live to avoid, under any circumstances, disappointing their comrades, the hierarchy or monsieur paul. daniel worked here and so have many, many who have gone on to run their own celebrated kitchens. >> hello. [ speaking french ] >> in the '70s as a young wanna-be cook, i managed to lay hands on a french copy of paul bocuse's classic cookbook "la cuisine de marche." and i gaped in wonder at the photos. struggled to translate the descriptions of dishes so fantastic i was quite sure i never, ever in my life would cook, much less eat.
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if you could please say how honored and grateful i am to be here. this is a dream come true. over the years, how many great chefs have come through this restaurant and gone on to open great restaurants? >> [ speaking french ]. >> he always have a child somewhere around the world because everywhere he goes around the world. >> but bocuse too is and was part of the system. he came up with his own cruel and terrifying masters and their faces are here. fernand point, the tower and intimidating figure behind la pyramide.
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out of his kitchens came such figures as alain chappelle, francois biese, george perrier, the brothers troisgros, and many more. >> this was all the gang of the nouvelle cuisine. the '60s in new york. and paul and michel gerard. >> every great chef i have ever met has nightmares of they're still a young man, they're back in a kitchen and a chef is yelling at them. who of his masters? >> the woman. >> la mer brazier at the ripe old age of 20, monsieur paul worked as an apprentice for brazier. >> she was such a screamer. he say you would fall on your ass she was screaming so hard. she was the first up in the morning and the last one to go to bed. she would go to the market with
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three cook in the back of the truck and she would put the case of green beans or something and the cook will be sitting down making the beans, not to waste time. >> truly a terrifying figure. >> truffle soup elysee. i can't tell you how many hours i stared at photos of this dish, how pathetically i tried to replicate it. never, ever did i think i'd get to try it, much less like this. sea bass with a tomato bernaise sauce baked in a meticulously crafted millefois crust. >> this is a great moment. >> you only have three camera? >> the fish is filled with a delicate lobster mousse, chervil and tarragon and wrapped carefully in pastry. notice, please, the careful and expert tableside carving and service.
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>> he has been making the same thing for 50 years. paul has an amazing respect for classic. >> the peasant classic. >> tony, get closer. >> anthony: you are totally sending me every one of those pictures, by the way. wow. look at that. this style of dish goes back long before cameras but it's perfect. is there a more perfect assortment of colors and textures? in this one a somewhat more luxurious version. beef shanks, flank steak, ox tail, veal shanks, chicken, marrow bones, beef ribs, leeks, carrots, turnips, fennel, and parsnips. all stewed long and at low temperature, then served with its own deeply rich broth. >> think it's enough for the two of us? >> anthony: and then this.
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♪ as if the chef had been listening to my deepest, darkest secret europeaninyearnings, the legendary -- yeve a la royale, an almost completely disappeared, incredibly difficult preparation of wild hare. the animal is first slowly cooked, then coated by a sauce of its own minced heart, liver and lungs that has been thickened with its own blood. after more than six hours of preparation, the hare is served as the chef prefers, whole on the bone, the rich glorious sauce finished with truffles and chartreuse. napeed over and over, until it coats like richest chocolate. absolutely the lost ark of the covenant of cuisine ancienne. >> everything great about cooking is encapsulated in this dish. >> we continue all over the world to make cuisine of paul many generations to come. forever. >> anthony: i will never eat like this again in my life. chef, merci. the meal of my life.
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today i was treated to the greatest hits of a glorious and fabled career. for the first and probably the last time, i sat next to the great man himself and daniel and i were served a menu that chefs will look back on in a hundred years and smile at appreciably, sentimentally, respectfully. ♪ hi! welcome to the katy kat collection.
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♪ so me and daniel were going hunting, and over lunch we mentioned that fact to paul bocuse, who immediately insisted, insisted that if we wanted to go duck hunting, we should come by his crib, and so we find ourselves in the morning mist of le dome, a rural area about a half hour outside lyon. and sure enough, in spite of his 88 years and the fact that he's been less than well, 9:00 a.m. on the nose, there he is, sitting on top of his beloved john deere with his faithful dog festand ready to go. >> nice fresh morning. >> that dog is happy. >> the great chef loves this
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place, and you can see why. ♪ >> monsieur paul can't safely hunt but is happy to chase around flushing birds for us. [ gunshots ] >> beautiful. >> anthony: yeah, it is beautiful. i could do this all day. that was about as good as we're going to get. >> you got a bullet to sell, i hope. >> anthony: if you look long enough, you start hallucinating. you start hallucinating ducks where there aren't any. [ gunshots ] >> you see that one falling? >> anthony: okay. not a moment to waste. quickly, a second shot. okay. >> you got it?
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>> anthony: yeah. right there. >> festand! >> anthony: between me and daniel and festand the dog, we managed to actually bag a few ducks. >> good job. very good. >> anthony: easy shot. then it's back to the lodge, clearly bocuse's happy place, where we meet up with some hunting buddies of the great chef. >> you did a good job, no? >> success. >> yeah. it's fantastic. >> anthony: is this the hunting lodge, the weekend getaway, hangout with the guys? >> that's where he comes every day, almost.
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look at the picture behind. you see? > anthony: for tonight's meal, we pluck and roast some woodcocks over an open fire. cook up some well-aged duck and pheasant. >> daniel: they made this at the auberge paul bocuse. it's a mashed potato here. >> anthony: is it predominately butter, or predominately potato? do you have a head in there somewhere? >> daniel: yes, of course, yeah, yeah. no, no. >> anthony: that's perfect happiness right there. oh, yeah. my father used to say, uh -- he used to say, "i am a man of simple needs," and i noticed that the chef here -- a nice fire, some birds. >> daniel: we can spend the whole week with paul, and we'll
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be hunting, we'll be cooking, we'll be eating, drinking, and talking, and that's beautiful. [ paul speaking french ] [ daniel speaking french ] >> anthony: life is good. it is, for me, a dream to spend this time with a legend. but i'm thrilled that bocuse too seems genuinely delighted. >> daniel: the duck you shot was a beaujois. you see it is the one behind you on the top there. [ paul speaking french ] >> anthony: in lyon, all across france, he's monsieur paul. he's the great chef, a public figure, a hero, an institution, always treated with the greatest deference. here it appears he's free to enjoy the simple things with friends, local farmers, who talk to him like anybody else. it's a pretty damn magical thing to see.
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80 years, 100 years, and then they closed it. [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> daniel's dad: no, no, no, no, no. >> anthony: meeting daniel's dad, one begins to understand the roots of his perfectionism. [ daniel's dad speaking french ] [ daniel's sister speaking french ] >> anthony: his mom, dad, wife catherine, and daniel collaborate. [ daniel's mom speaking french ] [ daniel speaking french ] >> anthony: with some debate. [ daniel speaking french ] [ daniel's mom speaking french ] >> anthony: on a super old-school farmhouse classic. the sort of thing that good times, bad times, a family could make with stuff that's always readily available on the farm. check this out. it's a hollowed-out pumpkin, layered with toasted hunks of stale, country bread, which monsieur boulud senior bakes himself. nutmeg, grated gruyere cheese,
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mushrooms, fresh cream from the cows, and the meat of the pumpkin. >> daniel: and a layer of bacon also, homemade pancetta. very good. oh man, it's heavy. [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> daniel: we made it. >> anthony: is he concerned that the pumpkin's going to try to get out? daniel's dad could be something of a gaulic macgyver. you don't waste stuff around here and he's a bit of an inventor anyway. >> daniel: how much would you pay for a machine like this? >> anthony: look at this. an old washing machine turned still. what the hell is that? >> daniel: so underneath, we have the -- but to seal it so there is no air coming in, he has cement on top. it's not distilled yet, it's just fermented. >> anthony: leftover grape solids from the winemaking process, usually used to make liquor like grappa, today, a
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different use. if we can get it out of here. >> daniel: why did you put so much cement on it? [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> daniel: he says funky. mm, super. >> anthony: we'll be using this delightfully funky stuff to flavor the steam that cooks the vegetables and the sabodet sausages from monsieur reynon inside the still. >> daniel: then we come back in, uh, an hour. >> anthony: at dusk, we settle for dinner. look at that. >> daniel: there is the pumpkin. >> anthony: incredible. look at that. wow. the pumpkin is amazing. we also have that great sabodet sausage from monsieur reynon. oh, look at that.
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>> daniel's dad: oh la la. >> anthony: cabbage and potatoes all steamed in the still. the flavor you get from the fermented grape -- awesome. >> daniel: yeah, it's awesome, huh? >> anthony: it's good. so good. and if you know daniel at all, he can't really help himself. he's popping up and down, serving everybody, making sure everything's just right. and sitting here with his family in the house he grew up in, you can see where it all comes from. madam and monsieur, their son, he's now a gigantic, international success. when he was a young man at 14 sneezing in the field, did they ever anticipate this? [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> anthony: no! no early indications of greatness? but i mean, there is a line, isn't there, from the farm, and haute cuisine. they all reflect the region, hopefully. >> daniel: yeah. >> anthony: but in the best case, they're interdependent. they -- they come from each other. in fact, who cooks in the great restaurants? well farm boys, basically. that's who always cook. my deepest thanks to your mother and your father. thank you. >> daniel: merci. next time, my father will make
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you drive the tractor. [ laughter ] >> i didn't even think about death, but shooting those russian thanks -- anybody with a camera was shot. immediately by a russian soldier. that time, i didn't think about that. i thought that i -- >> anthony: you were alive and holding a camera at a very important time in history. you had to think, "i'm doing something important." >> vilmos: it's very easy to make beautiful pictures, but pictures which mean something, with what's in it -- that's a totally different story.


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