tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN November 13, 2016 12:00am-1:01am PST
voice: detroit's the city of champions. the whole world knows that detroit is the american city whose products have revolutionized our way of living. and only in michigan, will you find the men and women whose talent made us the arsenal of democracy in wartime, and the economic pacesetter in peacetime.
♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪ >> anthony: it's where nearly everything american and great came from. the things the whole world wanted, made here. the heart, the soul, the beat of an industrial cultural superpower.
a magnet for everyone with a dream of a better future, from eastern europe to the deep south. american dream? you came here. the one straight ahead with the green roof? >> charlie: yep, the big rococo building, completely empty. >> anthony: empty, unbelievable. >> charlie: the white one is being rehabbed. there's some money coming in. the one next to it, on the right, is completely empty. the gray pyramid with the spire on top sold for five million dollars. >> anthony: five million for that? that's -- you can't buy a garage in the hamptons for that. >> charlie: five million! for a skyscraper. >> anthony: it is post-apocalyptic. i mean it's -- it's like a science fiction film. what the hell happened here? >> charlie: well it is post-apocalyptic, except for the fact there's several hundred thousand people living here. >> anthony: detroit, 2013. charlie leduff is a writer, journalist, television reporter. he grew up here. >> charlie: but there used to be two million people. that was rubber. that guy was steel. that guy was a doctor. this was what made america.
the road started here. the automobile. frozen peas started here. credit on a mass scale started here. >> anthony: what was this like just before this or 20 years before. >> charlie: it was insane. and this is when it was like twice as many people here. this is the consequence because all the whites went. they took their money. they took their factories. the black middle class maintained for a while, and then it got too rough for them. so there's little pockets of feral hippies and older black folks, a couple white folks, some arabs, but this is 140 square miles. so you're going to get tall grass because it's back to the wild. >> anthony: it is one of the most beautiful cities in america. it speaks of those industrial age dreams of an endlessly glorious future, you know, people who built these structures, they were thinking big. >> charlie: they were. >> anthony: they were looking at a new rome, and they built it, actually. it's awesome. ♪
opened in 1903, it was considered the most advanced facility of its kind, anywhere in the world. huge, epically proportioned. i mean, 3.5 million square feet. now, one man lives here. al hill. >> al: my name's alan hill. welcome to my home. this room right here is the forge room. it was the former packard motorcar company. i started living here about seven years ago. at that time, i was semi-apprehensive about the place and the going-ons around here, but it turned out as about as peaceful as the north woods. and not having a credit card or a mortgage payment or a car payment is a real blessing. there's a few nails here so -- >> anthony: yep. >> al: what's happened here in detroit is unfortunate but, you know, it's a sign of the times. we find out that not only does it take a village to raise an individual, it takes an entire world to support one city. one city's suffering, or one community's suffering, the entire world should pitch in and
help elevate it instead of sit there and stare at it. ♪ people have lost faith in a lot of things. probably would have to do with the faith they had in detroit. it was once the industrial might of the entire world. >> anthony: it's enormous. >> al: yeah it is. it's about a mile long, maybe a quarter of a mile wide. got a pretty good view from up here. >> anthony: yeah. how many people worked here at its peak? >> al: well, during the war there was like 33,000 people working here. they went out of business in '56. you know, they brought studebaker in as a partner and studebaker pulled them down. >> anthony: this has been abandoned since the '50s? >> al: well, actually what happened, in 1956 they rented out to various entrepreneurs. there was a shoe warehouse, there was trucking companies, guys who were storing cars. >> anthony: so how long has it been like this, though? >> al: most of this damage happened within five years. >> anthony: within the last
5 years? >> al: yeah. >> anthony: wow. >> al: china had this olympia effort, and scrap metal went to a high price, so people come in here scrapping. they took the windows out, they just destroyed everything. >> anthony: the place is pretty much open to anybody who wants to come in here. >> al: sure. there's a lot of urban explorers and people shooting music videos, taking pictures. oftentimes you see a wedding party come here and, you know, they use this as a background for their wedding. they'd take pictures, videos of their wedding. >> anthony: wow. you want to take pictures here. the place, like so much of detroit, invites it. urban exploring, as they call it, sifting through the remains of detroit's great american ongoing tragedy, photographing them, posing in front of them, is something of an irresistible impulse. detroiters hate it. all the visitors, like us, i should point out, wallowing in ruin porn. what was this part of the factory? where are we standing? >> al: this right here is where the assembly line was. this was a paint booth right
here, where they'd spray paint the cars. you can see in the floor where they have the -- they could wash away the overspray. anthony: mm-hmm. >> al: the assembly line ended 35, 40 feet over here. there's bridges here, between here and the main building and the assembly line actually came across through the bridges. you know, you're looking at a possibility of an assembly line about 3/4 of a mile long. >> anthony: you're talking hundreds, if not thousands, of people all working on the -- >> al: yep. >> anthony: -- on the process. >> al: yeah. >> anthony: i mean this is sort of, kind of, you know, it's not a perfect model for detroit but it's a perfect model when a big factory goes down. it's not just 33,000 people. that's 33,000 families who are going to be eating dinner out less. >> al: you know, you got a point there on that. ♪ >> anthony: most people, i would guess, have no idea what a packard even was. we're talking about one of the great luxury cars in the world, yes? >> al: yeah, it was the kind of car that everybody would love to have. kings and queens and every president wanted to ride in one.
popes and indian chiefs. a luxury car maker went out of business, you know? and little did they realize, that was a trend that started here in detroit, and when it affected detroit, it affected the entire world because it followed everybody home. it might have been 50 or 60 years later, but it started here, and then, everybody else gets to experience the same problem that we're having. in another 20 years, this place probably won't be here and people won't have any idea to what went on over here. >> anthony: it's hard to look away from the ruin. to not find beauty in the decay. comparisons to angkor wat, machu picchu, ancient rome are inevitable. magnificent structures, represting the boundless dreams of the dead left to rot. yet unlike angkor, and leptis magna, people still live here. we forget that. ♪ you tell people you're going to detroit, and chances are
somebody from the home team is going to say, "be sure to get a coney." i never really understood that. i mean, i'm like 30 minutes from a place called coney island, where presumably, they know something about freaking hotdogs, right? maybe the early greeks or macedonians who first experienced that golden land by the shore then took what they saw with them to florida, michigan, and beyond. maybe they knew something. they've been doing conies at duly's for over 90 years. that's almost as long as the hotdog's been around. and i can't tell you how deep this creation runs here. deep dish in chicago, cheese steak in philadelphia, you'll find some ambivalence. not here. >> waitress: how are you sir? >> anthony: good. now if i were from detroit, would i be eating this with my hands or with a fork? >> waitress: probably with your hands. >> anthony: all right. i'll do my best. [ laughter ] logistical problems. mm. that's delicious. this is the best of my only three coney experiences.
you're open 24 hours? >> waiter: yes, sir -- 24/7. >> anthony: i don't know that i want to watch, like, seriously drunk people trying to eat this. >> waiter: oh, yeah. we have a fun time. >> anthony: is it a skill that you learn over time? >> waiter: yeah, it takes practice. >> anthony: it's like kung fu, you know. you got to just practice and practice and -- >> waiter: exactly. practice makes perfect. >> anthony: wow, that was good. yeah, i think i better have another one of these. >> waiter: yeah, you should. >> anthony: yeah, i'll be better at it the next time around. >> waiter: one coney up, everything. >> anthony: it seems like a simple thing. hotdog, chili, raw onion, mustard, steamed bun. but the delicate interplay between these ingredients, when done right, is symphonic. ♪ ♪
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special financing. know better sleep with sleep number. ♪ anthony: detroit's problems are well documented. a lot of attention has been paid to a history of spectacular mismanagement and corruption. detroit is hardly alone in this. koch era new york, we forget too soon, was a cesspit of mob-influenced corruption. chicago, boston, machine politics, they wrote the book. but detroit differs in that its scandals seems so comically lurid. so surrealistically squalid. the last mayor, kwame kilpatrick is currently serving time in the jug for some of his less hilariously bent behaviors. through all of it, one man seems to have known what's going on. adolph mongo -- political strategist, oracle, survivor. he's seen it all. >> anthony: i know what i'm having, but i'd love a br.
>> waitress: miller,iller high life, mgd. >> adolph: now this ain't this kind of place, man. i thought you drank, man. you're drinking beer? >> anthony: what are you drinking? >> adolph: i'm drinking vodka. >> anthony: i'll have what he's -- i'll have -- >> waitress: perfect. >> anthony: i'll fold under pressure. >> waitress: okay. >> anthony: then i'll think about a burger down the way. >> waitress: okay. >> anthony: you having something to eat? >> adolph: i'm eating. >> anthony: all right, i'll hold back. i will stick with this. >> waitress: so i'll get you your drink and then you can decide. >> anthony: thank you. i have to ask, you're born and raised in the detroit area? >> adolph: right. >> anthony: an academic star. marine corps. journalism. why do you never run for office? >> adolph: you got to be crazy. you know what? they don't want straightforward politicians. they don't last. you got to be real cold-blooded. being an elected official is like working for the drug cartel. you can't give anybody any mercy.
>> anthony: well, it seems that whatever might be in your heart and however pure you might be, when you finally arrive in office, somebody brings you a big dossier, opens it up and says, mr. president, or mr. mayor, mr. governor, this is the real situation. >> adolph: yeah. >> anthony: at which point it's an ocean trying to start making some serious accommodations. >> adolph: yes. >> anthony: so kwame kilpatrick. what went wrong there? >> adolph: greedy. >> anthony: just greed -- old school -- >> adolph: greedy. he was greedy. i didn't support him in the beginning, and when he was -- and i was one of his biggest critics. but when he got in trouble, who'd he call? he called me. >> anthony: he called you. >> adolph: i should have listen to my wife. she said, "eh, don't be messing with them." >> anthony: are there good guys out there who could presumably -- >> adolph: oh, there are a lot of good guys. >> anthony: not just run for office, but will win? >> adolph: there's a lot of guys, yes, but they don't want
to run. there's a lot of people. >> anthony: why don't they want to run? >> adolph: because, you got to take the bad -- that comes along with it. you got to take the garbage. >> anthony: why should a bright, young guy out of -- fresh out of law school start thinking about running for anything in the city of detroit? >> adolph: yeah, because sooner or later it's going to be all right. it's going to come -- it's going to be all right. it's a tough town. >> anthony: is detroit going to turn things around? i could lie and tell you, "yes." but you know what? this city's screwed. only place i've ever been that looks anything like detroit does now -- chernobyl. i'm not being funny. that's the truth. abandoned, abandoned, man. but you have to admire the bold, proud, ferociously enterprising survivors who decided to hang on, hang in, and figure out a way to not only survive, but do something extraordinary. there's tyree guyton's heidelberg project, a delightfully loony outdoor community art project that began in 1986 and now attracts 35,000 visitors per year from around the world. [ engine choking ] >> charlie: that was a buck in
gas right there. >> anthony: yeah. >> charlie: just to turn it on. >> anthony: oh, i love detroit. >> charlie: you know how they got this field mowed last summer? the neighborhood, they lit it on fire. >> anthony: another block, and more decay. and a liquor store. for this neighborhood, the only store for miles. just be right back. >> woman outside: how you doing? >> charlie: hey, lady! >> woman outside: i'm glad you're back. >> man outside: it looks like i seen you somewhere. >> woman outside: i love you! >> man outside: you got an awesome spirit on you, man. god bless you. >> charlie: hi, how are you? >> woman in car: all right. nice to meet you. >> man outside: gentleman and a scholar, man can't nobody do it like you, charlie. you hear me? >> charlie: see ya, lady! ♪ >> anthony: cheers. >> charlie: cheers, man. ♪ yep. you want one? >> anthony: that's the benefit of a college education, right there. people seem to like you in this town. who hates you in this town? >> charlie: who hates me in this
town? >> guy on street: nobody i know. >> charlie: politicians? >> anthony: i'm guessing there are a number of politicians and former public employees who are not too happy with you. >> charlie: i don't know, you know. yeah. [ laughter ] >> anthony: yeah, but let's face it, there's a whole lot of people out there who'd just be perfectly happy with just letting detroit go. >> charlie: it already went! >> guy on street: it's gone. >> charlie: look at this. see all those lilies there? >> anthony: uh huh. >> charlie: i call those the ghost gardens. like they're all over, like, the houses that used to be, the gardens still come up. ♪ ♪ ♪
>> anthony: off the main drag. >> charlie: girl, you wearing the hat and everything? >> anthony: a backyard. >> charlie: thanks for coming. i never had such a good time. >> anthony: a well-tended home surrounded by many neglected ones. an example of detroit-style entrepreneurship. greedy greg's. a do-it-yourself barbeque joint started by these two. rochelle and greg. >> anthony: i'm tony. >> greg: i'm greedy greg. >> anthony: on the menu, absolutely delicious straight-from-the-grill ribs and rib tips. but the really good stuff is inside. superb smoked pork loaded collards and mac and cheese. >> anthony: thank you so much. this is perfect. ♪
that's good. >> charlie: ro, i'm going to use the spoon here. >> anthony: this is unbelievably good. >> charlie: which, the mac? >> anthony: and the greens are incredible. >> charlie: oh, this is good. >> anthony: so in the greens, is that like smoked ham hock? >> rochelle: i can't tell you my secret! >> anthony: you can't tell me. well, i'll tell you, those are some of the best greens i ever had. no doubt about it. >> rochelle: are you serious? >> charlie: and this dude's been everywhere. >> rochelle: come on now! >> anthony: i've been all over the south. i've had a lot of greens and those are some -- they're not just delicious, they're luxurious. >> rochelle: thank you so much. >> anthony: big hunks of, you won't tell me what, in there? right? >> rochelle: i can't tell y'all my secret. >> anthony: will this kind of entrepreneurship lead detroit out of its sinkhole? probably not. i can't believe there's, like, not a line of cars around the corner. that -- was good. but it's no longer about winning, is it? it's about surviving. >> rochelle: dinner, sandwiches! rib tips, collards!
♪ >> anthony: there are approximately 80,000 abandoned buildings within detroit's 140 square mile city limits. what that translates to, unfortunately, is about 14 acts of arson a day. nearly 5,000 a year. that's just arson. that doesn't include the thousands of other types of fires and medical emergencies the detroit fire department responds to every day. with an ever lower valued housing market where you can buy
a home for as little as 500 dollars, many houses are burned down for the insurance. many, because angry neighbors desperate to hang on, see abandoned structures taken over by crack heads or drug gangs. with law enforcement stretched ridiculously thin, they resort to burning them out. they won't say it. i will. the detroit fire department is underfunded, underequipped, often badly and incompetently led, and up against, what seems like, a never ending war. a city on fire. their safety equipment, their boots, their clothes are often moldering and shambolic. but they fight on. this is the second time they've been to this house. if it happens to be arson, chances are, no one will ever know for sure. given the ever-shrinking resources available to the department, most fires can't even be investigated. this fire is out within an hour. and after the fire, dinner.
♪ the cliche is that firemen are great cooks. in this case, the cliche is true. lieutenant mike devins and the boys of squad three are cooking up a family meal. >> anthony: is every firefighter expected to cook reasonably well? >> mike: if they don't, they catch hell. i mean -- >> anthony: really? >> mike: i mean in detroit, yeah, i mean -- >> anthony: it's almost a perfect society in that sense because in a perfect society, i believe, everybody should be able to feed themselves and their friends or their family, at least reasonably well. and if they're not able to do that, they should be shunned and demonized and marginalized. >> mike: well, agreed. most of the firemen are known for their cooking. we cook some outstanding meals. we've learned to shop, we've learned to shop with less to feed more. you don't want to be a belly robber. you better bring some food back for the boys. >> anthony: firefighters, in my experience, are a lot like the marines i've met over the years. no matter how badly lead, ridiculously underequipped, underappreciated, no matter how
doomed their mission, they take a bizarre and quite beautiful pride in at least being screwed more than everybody else, and doing it with style. they seem to do what they do, for themselves. it's not a job, it's a calling. >> mike: this is where the guys store their gear, as you can see the gear is very weathered. >> anthony: how old? >> mike: oh this gear is only a couple years old. i mean -- >> anthony: but it gets beat up quick. >> mike: oh yeah, yeah. we've got one new coat hanging in there so there's a lucky guy that's got a new coat but that gear's seen a lot of action. >> anthony: where's the fire pole, dude? >> mike: they took them. >> anthony: oh man! >> mike: in the late 90's, management took the poles out. >> anthony: what is every little boy, you know, from my age was all about sparky the fire dog and the poles. >> mike: you know, i used to love sliding the pole and the headquarters was three stories so when you were sliding that thing you had to really hold on because you were going for a ride. the old running board, we put up here. we don't use the running board, but this is how many companies we used to have. >> anthony: what percentage of
that number are active now? >> mike: less than half, and we're fighting a lot more fires. >> anthony: you know, i've got to say, the kitchen's looking pretty good. >> mike: it's one of the best kitchens in the city. >> anthony: tonight's meal is being cooked by paul. he's squad three's best, they say. >> mike: he's reading the can, that's a good start. >> anthony: tonight's menu -- crab cakes, with a mix of actual crab and this stuff, sea leg. maybe you know it from such beloved menu items as california roll. hey, firefighters can't afford 100% jumbo lump crab meat okay? do you know what this stuff is, by the way? >> firefighter 2: fish, isn't it? pollack, right? >> anthony: it's a miracle fish. you can actually make beef out of this too. >> firefighter 2: really? >> anthony: or beef like substance, yeah. it should be pointed out that every meal is paid for by the
crew on duty. they pool their money and shop as a unit. what's the firehouse favorite, by consensus? >> mike: oh, steaks, man. >> anthony: steaks. if i were the regular cook here, the whole firehouse would be in totally open rebellion. [ laughter ] >> mike: why? >> anthony: first of all, i'd be making stews, because they're cheap and i think they're delicious, plus i'd be trying out like tripe and guts on you guys. i don't know how that would go. >> paul: that would not go. >> anthony: you'd be eating like italian peasants every day if i was the cook here, pretty much. you'd have like a big bowl of stew with a big hunk of bread and that would be about it. i'd be pocketing the difference. yeah! lamb chops seared in the pan then finished over the grill. then, caesar salad with chicken. ever find out, like, how are the other firefighters eating around the city >> firefighter 2: you know, like at a fire you'll say, what are you guys having for chow? >> anthony: do you ever get tempting to just kind of like -- with the other guys and say, "oh yeah, we had like foie gras with truffles and -- the other day?" >> firefighter 2: all the time. i'm going to be puking lobster in a minute. >> anthony: yeah, lobster again! i keep telling the guys, no
more -- lobster. i just can't take it. we're free to eat? >> mike: yes! nice job on the crab cakes. >> anthony: yeah. >> mike: full of meat. >> firefighter 3: very tasty, paul. >> anthony: so if it's not good, you're not diplomatic about it. >> mike: no, not at all. no. >> firefighter 3: you tell them, nice try. >> mike: a lot of cooks they look at that kitchen -- there's a lot of room, and there's always a lot of spices, our staples are always loaded. you can pretty much make anything in there. it's a good place to be a cook. nice job there, pauly. >> anthony: yes, well done sir. generally speaking, you eat fast because you never know. in all likelihood, you are not going to get to finish that meal. >> mike: well obviously, tony's not doing any dishes. >> anthony: i'll do all the dishes. >> mike: no, hell no! no way! >> anthony: wouldn't be the first time, won't be the last. >> mike: no way! no way!
>> anthony: at this point, you may be asking, "what about all the cool stuff i hear about detroit?" that's what you're thinking. the vibrant, new do it yourself culture of urban renaissance, young entrepreneurs, artists transforming the city, one block at a time. where's that? well, that is happening. young, idealistic, true believing, hard working creative
people are indeed doing their best to bring light and hope and beauty to this greatest of cities. you got to start with the deeply felt and absolute belief that detroit is indeed a great city, and that it is worth saving. as utterly screwed as detroit may be, you have to be a twisted, unpatriotic freak to not believe that. behold, the future, charlie leduff. >> charlie: what, like cooking in a back alley? >> anthony: yes. >> charlie: all right. >> anthony: chef craig lieckfelt has done, what many would call, a very unwise thing. after working at gotham grill and jean georges in manhattan, instead of staying where the money inarguably was, he returned to detroit. he's been working to get a brick and mortar establishment going, by first doing regular pop ups here at guns and butter, tucked into the back room of an art gallery, under an overpass in downtown detroit.
and you have like a really weird attitude towards food, in general. >> charlie: yeah. >> chef craig: what's that? >> charlie: you know, you've got liquor, you've got cigarettes, you've got coffee. [ laughter ] >> anthony: or all of those. we're going to eat well. charlie leduff may have a pulitzer prize, but his appreciation of fine food and dining is shall we say -- charlie: is that cheese? >> anthony: lacking. simply put, he's a philistine. warm egg yolk with a generous helping of smelt roe on top. egg with eggs? yes, please. leduff scarfs his like he's at ruby tuesdays. you've got all these kids flooding into detroit. >> charlie: which is good. >> anthony: right? how's that going to play out? will there be political leadership in place to manage that fairly? >> charlie: it will be fine! everybody likes a nice, little thing in an eggshell with caviar on top! everybody. it's just all about keeping cool. >> anthony: no, it won't be fine, dude.
it will not be fine if, if there's not political leadership. it will not. >> charlie: well, you know, sometimes political leadership grows up o of what's happening, and we don't have any political leadership and this is happening. >> anthony: are you an optimist, charlie leduff? >> charlie: i'm an optimist. >> anthony: you're an optimist. >> charlie: i'm here in this garage with you. >> anthony: chilled summer soup with melon and a tomato, lemon verbena broth. >> chef craig: so we have a summer soup, all the melons from the market. the coriander blossoms, we actually pick from a farm right in detroit. >> anthony: beautiful, thank you. >> chef craig: thank you. >> charlie: it's good, isn't it. i would describe that -- may i chef? it's a light, airy gazpacho. >> anthony: it's -- delicious. i wouldn't even go that far. leduff sees an opportunity to make a melon gimlet. >> charlie: put a little gin in it. >> anthony: you're putting gin in your soup? >> charlie: well the soup's delicious, let me try this -- >> anthony: you're on your own, dude. you know, when i was a chef, if you had poured gin in my soup, i would have stabbed you in the neck with a fork. i'm dying somewhere inside.
you're like the worst-case scenario customer. the customer from -- hell. next up -- smoked mussels that are lightly steamed in white wine, aromatics and butter served in a lobster broth with fried onions, honey, and yuzu. quite delicious. baby greek salad with beets, tomato, and feta, all sourced locally. a tribute to the greek diners where craig grew up eating with his family. this guy could be running a 300-seat restaurant in vegas, but here he is in detroit. that's a heroic thing. >> charlie: guess what? the headaches are less. you're appreciated here. >> anthony: no, no, this would be considered a foolhardy venture in the chef world. >> charlie: guess what? we like good food, too. we're not space aliens. >> chef craig: people often say, thank you, like we just moved back from chicago. we lived in chicago the last six years, we lived in la six years, thank you, this is exactly what we wanted. >> anthony: what you've done is counter intuitive.
i mean, there is a sort of conventional career path for chefs. instead, you decide to go to detroit. >> chef craig: hell yeah. not detroit -- come back home. people think i'm crazy for going back to detroit. >> anthony: then another tribute to classic detroit -- potato filled pierogi and kielbasa, simmered in white wine, thyme and fennel seeds, finished with beurre fondue and burnt butter pine nuts. followed by locally sourced lamb, cooked perfectly, topped with sour cherries, mulberries, toasted pistachios, coriander and yogurt sauce. in what way does opening a fine dining restaurant in detroit benefit the majority of detroiters? >> chef craig: how is it not making it better? how is sitting back, not doing anything making it better? how is it, only buying my products from detroit or farmers in detroit, not helping detroit? i'm supplying from detroit. i'm hiring people from detroit. everybody here lives in detroit. >> anthony: if i were asked the same question, i would say i don't -- know.
i'm doing what i do well. i'm doing it in a place i love and i am demonstrating that yet another person gives a -- about detroit, and believes in it enough to be here. >> chef craig: you're 100% right. i never really thought about it until you asked that question. it's like -- to me, it was just obvious. >> announcer: what will the detroit of the future look like? whatever you may think it should look like, it will probably taste like this.
>> anthony: somewhere in this unassuming neighborhood, one can sit down for an excellent meal. but you won't find this place on yelp and, unfortunately, i cannot tell you where it is exactly. why not, you ask? it's not exactly a restaurant, you see, which means it's not, strictly speaking, legal. what is this place? >> george: papusa house, i call it the papusa house. i mean, like a papusaerie, i guess you could say. >> joe: it's a cultural thing. traditionally, they serve out of their houses, and it's just something that people bring over when they come. so this is about as traditional as it gets, right here. >> anthony: it's just like home? >> joe: yep. >> anthony: this is what's called a papusa house. literally a house, this one serving home cooked salvadorian meals. once a living room, now the main dining area.
the woman running it, we can't show her face, but she's been here for ten years, serving a mostly salvadorian clientele, looking for a taste of home. first up, a staple done a little differently than the norm -- tamales, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed. mm, that's delicious. next, the dish of the house, papusas. tortillas stuffed with ground pork or chicharrons. you can get papusas in nicaragua, in guatemala, but for some reason salvadorian papusas get the most respect. general consensus seems to be that they're the best. how come? >> george: i mean, i would agree. >> anthony: george azar is our detroit fixer. he's been coming here with his friend, joe, for years. >> george: this is what makes it, right here. is this -- curtito. >> anthony: curtito? >> george: curtito -- it's just a pickled slaw. salsa. and i do this, but i don't know if you're up to this. >> anthony: what are you saying? >> george: i don't know if you can hang, man. >> anthony: is it a manly thing? >> george: i mean, it's turning
into it, it seems like. >> joe: mexican, spicy. salvadorian, not spicy. >> george: that's true, though. they don't do it that spicy. >> anthony: wow. chicarrons? yeah, there's a porky goodness in there, for sure. >> joe: chicarron is fried pork. fried pork and then it's ground with peppers, onions and tomatoes. simple. >> anthony: you've taken the liberty of ordering some indigenous detroit beverages that we've egregious overlooked so far. that would be vernors, which i haven't had. >> george: it's like a cross between ginger beer and ginger ale. it's like, not as spicy as ginger beer, and not as sweet as ginger ale. it's like, in the middle. it's my favorite beverage in the city. >> anthony: i guess i needed this to enhance my street cred in detroit, so that i will be welcome back. then pollo asada in shrimp and garlic butter. that's shrimp, head on, thank you very much. this is where it's at. god lives in there. butter, garlic, simple, delicious. >> joe: it's the low fat butter. >> anthony: that's good. >> joe: that's good, it's like a big hug. >> anthony: how did you find your way here? >> george: honestly, it's only word of mouth. >> anthony: yeah, but you have annoying foodie websites, right?
>> george: true, true, but they're not coming here. >> joe: i guess the best thing you could say -- >> anthony: they're not coming here. >> george: oh no, if they walk in the door here, they're like -- [ record scratch ] >> anthony: there are thousands of foodies with ironic sunglasses, and fedoras and they're just waiting to get in here. >> joe: we don't want this place to come to the foodies. i get mad at him when he starts bringing different people here. >> anthony: you'd hate a line of people outside waiting, a 2-hour wait to get in. >> george: yes, because i don't want to wait for my food. >> anthony: who hates money? >> joe: with her, it's not about the money. it's about keeping the tradition alive. >> anthony: what happens when a city goes bankrupt? when it's at the point that it's actually considering selling what's left of itself in chunks? in detroit, city services are reduced, or cut out completely. fewer buses, fewer cops, fewer firefighters. answer -- they turn to each other for help, or figure out how to do it for themselves. detroit has a reputation as a tough town, but that toughness
is about resilience, too. the insistence on sticking with it no matter what, on not giving up in the face of the utter failure of leadership year after year. if the city abandons its parks and leaves them to become overgrown, eaten, like so much of the city by tall grass and weeds, then somebody has got to do something, right? meet the mower gang, started by this guy, tom nardone, with the simple mission of doing what they can to keep detroit's abandoned parks maintained. who are you guys and what are you doing here? >> tom: we are the detroit mower gang, and we clean up the abandoned parks and playgrounds in this town. >> anthony: why would you do that? >> tom: my kids need a place to play, i don't care who you are. if you're under ten years old, i think you deserve some justice in this world, don't you think? >> anthony: yeah. how did this thing start? >> tom: i guess i started it. i bought a lawn tractor when the city announced they were closing 72 parks. >> anthony: what's the difference between open and closed? they're just going to stop maintaining it? >> tom: that's it!
>> anthony: or do they actually physically shut it up? >> tom: no, no, they don't physically shut it up because there's no money in here, you know. >> anthony: just physically shut it up. >> tom: yeah, they just take the trash barrels away and stop mowing. >> anthony: crazy. >> tom: it's a strange place, detroit. when we're done here, it will not look like a nice park. >> anthony: but still, a playable park. >> tom: yeah, and a visible park, so if you had kids, you could see what they're doing in this park. it's safer. >> anthony: all right, well, let's cut some grass. >> tom: yeah, come on you'll like it, it's fun. ♪ ♪
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>> anthony: in detroit, approximately 40 square miles have been reverted to basically, unused green space. in many cities, so called "urban farming" may be looked upon by cynics like me as an affectation. here in detroit, it's not. with nature taking back the landscape block by block, the urban farm is really the last line of defense. d-town sits on the western border of detroit. where are we? >> malik: we're in the largest park in the city, which is called rouge park. >> anthony: did you just come in and start digging? or, did you have permission to come in? >> malik: we have permission to come in. >> anthony: was that difficult? >> malik: it was very difficult, we negotiated with the city for 2 years. part of the difficulty was, they really didn't know what hook to hang our request on. they're used to developers coming and saying, i want to build a strip mall or i want to build a parking structure.
but, they're not used to people saying, we want land to build a model organic farm. >> anthony: malik yakini started the farm with the goal of providing greater access to fresh produce in areas that grocery stores have completely abandoned. that's basically all of detroit's inner city. other than whole foods, who just came in, not a single national food chain. >> malik: no. no, in 2007 farmer jack closed his last stores in detroit, and that was kind of the end of big chains in detroit. >> anthony: this is sustenance farming, not cash crop. you're not going to be anticipating selling outside of detroit. >> malik: there's a greater demand in detroit than all of the farmers locally can supply. so first we want to supply that local demand in the city of detroit. >> anthony: to what degree do you think this model can be replicated in and around the city? >> malik: well, clearly we think urban agriculture has great potential and one of the things that we have in detroit is access to huge amounts of land.
if we're able to produce even a small percentage of the food, which is consumed in detroit, and circulate the revenues from that food within our community, then we're able to create a more vibrant, healthy, economically strong community. so we think it has tremendous potential. >> anthony: who will live in the detroit of the future? there's no question, is there, that detroit will come back? in one form or another, a city this magnificent, this storied, this american, cannot, will not ever, disappear into the weeds. there are too few places this beautiful, for it to be allowed to crumble like angkor or rome. someone will live in a smaller, tighter, no doubt hipper, much contracted new detroit.
but who will that be? will it be the people who stuck it out here? who fought, block by block, to keep their city from burning, who struggle to defend their homes, keep up appearances, as all around them, their neighborhood's emptied. what will detroit look like in 20 years? or 50? that's not just a detroit question, that's an america question. question. ♪ -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com
schoosing his team. donald trump on the verge of picking his chief of staff. the decision could be imminent. it has been one year since the deadly terror attacks in paris. now the concert hall is open once again. we'll take you there live. plus, colombia, reaches another deal with the rebels begging the question, will this one hold? live from cnn headquarters in atlanta. welcome to our viewers in the united states. i'm george howell. i'm natalie allen. "cnn newsroom" starts