tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN November 24, 2016 4:00pm-5:01pm PST
war on drugs implies an us versus them and all over this part of america, people are learning there is no them. there is only us. and we're going to have to figure this out together. the south is not a monolith. there are pockets of weirdness, awesomeness, and then there's charleston. where for some time now, important things have been happening with food. a lot of them having to do with this guy. [ laughter ] ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪
♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la >> what are we drinking? beer? harder stuff? what's going on? >> i usually go with a budweiser and a jagermeister. >> budweiser and jagermeister. any notion of going local right out the window. >> two jagers? >> yeah, two jagers.
cheers. >> the firsts one's never good. the first one is never good. but it gets easier after the first one. >> so, look, this is not my first time to charleston, as you know. i did do a show here before, and i'm still taking [ muted ] about it. apparently i really [ muted ] up the first time i came here because i made a number of errors. apparently none more egregious than going out -- like, doing an oyster roast and drinking champagne. >> i never heard of such a thing. well, champagne and beers is okay with the oysters. >> so it must have been a -- >> got confused somewhere. >> anyway, i got it wrong. this time i'm getting it right
which is why i've come to you. ♪ >> you can be forgiven for underestimating sean brock first time i met him. i saw a scruffy looking dude in a trucker cap who had a bottle of good bourbon on hand. >> 18 years old. this is the end of great whiskey. it didn't come in this bottle. this is my travel bottle because it's plastic, you see, so it don't break when you get rowdy. ♪ >> it took me a little time to discover the ferocious intellect, the inquiring nature, the purposeful talent to the man. without a doubt one of america's most important chefs. a guy redefining not just what southern cooking is, what, and can be, but american cooking as a whole. ♪ >> one, two, three!
♪ >> we're going to talk a lot about this over the next week about the notions of universal awesomeness. is the waffle house universally awesome? >> we have one choice for late-night eating and it's the waffle house. and they create this environment where no matter how blitzed you are or how normal you are, you are welcomed and treated equally with with an experience. not just like eating a plate of food. >> a magical, spiritual place. >> it's beyond a magical, spiritual place. ♪
>> it is, indeed, marvelous. an irony-free zone where everything is beautiful and nothing hurts. where everybody, regardless of race, creed, color, or degree of inebriation, is welcomed. its warm, yellow glow a beacon of hope and salvation, inviting the hungry, the lost, the seriously hammered, all across the south to come inside. a place of safety and nourishment. it never closes. it is always, always faithful. always there for you. >> when i was a kid, i was obsessed with this place because i wanted to be a chef. this was the only place that i'd ever been to where i actually watched people cook. this was action to me. i would see these people cooking at a pace and cooking for people who were completely out of control, but still providing hospitality. it was one of the things that really helped me fall in love with cooking.
>> waffle house. >> yes. >> i can't believe i didn't know about this. i am unbelievably, in spite of my world travels, new to the wonders of the waffle house. and unfamiliar with its ways. the terminology, for instance, is new to me. now, look, i'm looking at my hash brown and i am already confused and enticed. sausage gravy. >> you can't go all in. you want everything. >> i need to make a choice. >> there's a balance. when you find your balance, you memorize it. i go scattered covered smothered chunks. >> scattered on the griddle, heaped with brown onions, cheese, and hunks of hickory smoked ham. >> that's my style. i've been doing that since day one. and i didn't even know what that means. >> you know what i know, i don't want waffles at the waffle house. >> you have to have -- >> pecan waffles? >> okay. you have to have a waffle. what i devised as a chef, a tasting menu experience where you can sit down and really
experience what this place does. and you start out first thing you have, pecan waffle. >> really? >> all right, gentlemen. >> pecan waffle. you crush it. >> slather it. >> i want it to be swimming in syrup and hydrogenized vegetable oil. >> that's good. >> you don't come here expecting the french laundry, you come here expecting something amazing. >> this is better than the french laundry, man. >> second course. patty melt, split. ♪ ♪
>> patty melt. >> come on. that's not insanely delicious. >> oh, god damn. >> isn't that insanely delicious? >> no meal is complete without a sunny side up egg. >> oh, yeah. >> and then a green salad with some thousand island dressing would be amazing. would you rather have thin-cut pork chops or t-bone? >> i would like both. ♪ ♪ >> heinz 57 is the best, man. one of the more complex sauces. >> what? >> in the american repertoire. >> really? >> you want to talk shit about it. this is saucework. trust me. this is going to change your life. >> that's wrong, man. come on. >> mmm.
a brilliant human being that had a recipe that was amazing and it got a bad rap. >> like you're talking about ronald mcdonald. he had a good idea. [ laughter ] no, you're wrong. i'm sorry. here's where we part ways, my friend. there's my sauce. after a few bites of waffle, a burger, a hunk of generic t-bone and some hashbrown, one feels drawn right to the center of what makes our country great. an america, yeah, moment, that clamber, start reciting walt whitman, "the star-spangled banner," "o, say can you see," and i doubt i'd be the first. >> give me a break. >> you know what umami means in japanese? the literal transition? >> orgasm? >> no. umami means in japanese, literally it means i will [ muted ].
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where the rhythms of a summer afternoon, the crack of a bat, the roar of the crowd, are music. behold the mighty charleston riverdogs. a minor league feeder team for the new york yankees. meet one of the owners of the charleston riverdogs, charleston resident, bill murray. >> said i had too many beers to drive. i'm going to take shotgun. >> we're going to see how fast he can go all the way around the outfield. >> today, the riverdogs are facing the evil forces of the dreaded savannah sand gnats. >> that's going to score a run and that's going to leave a mark. going to hold them. bad day for the sand gnats. >> you're hated. >> we will crush you like a -- >> sand gnat. >> a sand gnat has almost no backbone, almost no skeletal structure.
they fold. ♪ >> as difficult as it might have been to forego the joys of the bacon-wrapped footlong corn dog known as the pig on a stick, we knew we'd be coming here. husk. sean's restaurant in downtown charleston. one of two that have helped make the city a fine dining destination. so i want to know, southern living. it's very different up there and down here. it's a big transition. easy for you, or not? >> it's easy. driving was the real transition because i'd drive, like, in new york -- when you come here, driving like new york, you know, it takes you a while to recover. but, you know, i'm right on the edge here, like telling people this is a really nice place to
come and really i don't want anyone else to come. i like it the way it is. there's a lot of insects. it's really, really hot in the summer. and the traffic is worse than it ever was. >> husk directly addresses southern culinary traditions using the best of modern techniques, but always, always respecting the originals and who made them. it's a pressing matter to redefine southern food. if i were southern, i would make it a personal mission because it was distorted for so long. but as a northerner, why should northerners care? >> well, i think if you look at the history of food in america, there's no denying that southern food was the first, you know, true cuisine that had this foundation and that's important to preserve, and, you know, to me, though, it kind of goes back to the idea, you should be cooking and preserving and celebrating the food of your grandmother. >> people take a real pride in
their ability to cook my aunt's recipe, my grandma's recipe, and this is how we made these. the standard of food here is so high that when i go around any place, i just go, eh. >> country ham, bread and butter pickles, and, of course, sean being sean, there will be bourbon. >> i just like to start with pickles and ham. i'll try not to geek out too much, but this is a very special breed of pig that came over here in the 1500s called asabal. the spaniards brought it. it has a very particular flavor. this one's aged three years. >> that's ridiculously good. that's the best american ham i've ever had. far and away. that's unbelievable. >> these two things together, my favorite things in the whole entire world. whiskey and the old country ham. ♪
♪ >> so this is an old dish that i dug up in one of those old books that i study. it's an old-fashioned oyster pie. >> oh. >> so just grab your spoon and just dig all the way down. the oysters are in the bottom. >> how old is this recipe? >> it was well-documented in the 19th century, pre-civil war. >> it's good. yes. ♪ >> so shrimp and grits is the dish of charleston. i mean, it really is. it's the dish i crave when i leave charleston and come back. this version is one of the older ones where we actually make hominy first with the corn. you'll taste -- the grits are a little bit different. >> oh, yes.
that's really great looking. >> we make a brown gravy which is the most classic way. and on top, crispy pig ears. >> you got grannies coming in saying i haven't tasted this since i was a little kid? >> yeah, exactly, man. >> wow, that's good. ♪ >> we were trying to replicate the emotion that southern food provides you in a time when good ingredients weren't available, so we made up for tasteless ingredients by frying them or dumping butter on them. >> right. >> now we don't have to. ♪
>> wow. what's going on here? this is an onslaught of awesomeness here. >> we didn't order this. >> so pit beans that is been cooking over the fire all day. these are the red peas that came from west africa. this is the original carolina gold rice. hand harvested. grilled whiting which is what nobody eats in charleston in restaurants. it's what everybody eats in homes with some spring vegetables. and then suckling pig. the same breed asabal we had earlier with the ham, mixed, with a mule foot. and some cream corn and corn bread. >> this is going to be my first mule foot. >> this is like my favorite way to eat, you know, just family-style, pass stuff around. >> yeah. the rice is amazing. >> it's amazing.
>> yep. >> did you see bubba gump? you get angry? >> i get very angry. >> for me, it's chili's. you see chili's along the mexican border. like what the [ muted ]? do we have a shortage of mexicans in this [ muted ]? you're eating at chili's? i want to pull up the car, get a tire iron, walk in and straighten some people out. >> clean house. roadhouse style. >> "roadhouse." vastly underrated film. >> you guys are both into "roadhouse"? >> such a great film. what else do you need to know? you can deconstruct this film forever. the more you watch it, the more mysteries unfold. >> i've never seen anyone enjoy "roadhouse" more than i do.
>> what? >> my friend's wife, kelly, plays the doctor that stitches up patrick swayze in the movie. she's the romantic interest, right? the unattainable -- >> yes. >> -- romantic interest. and i have for the last probably about 25 years called his home in the middle of the night and said, "you don't know me, but your wife's getting slammed up against the wall by patrick swayze. she's not putting up much of a fight." and then hang up. >> it is in many ways a perfect film. >> it's the whiskey talking. ♪
>> when you meet people here, you know that you're seeing a direct descendant of a slave that was here after the slaves were freed. >> ashley green grew up on mosquito beach on james island in charleston. her mother owns the property which has been in her family for generations. fact of the matter is, in the old south back when the dishes, ingredients, flavors of southern cooking, to say american cooking as opposed to european, chances are that food was grown, gathered, produced and prepared by african slaves. chef dennis has made it a personal mission to celebrate and protect the culinary traditions his ancestors passed down to him. >> this is some local blue grab. just freshly seasoned. this is a play on some garlic crabs. this is shrimp butter instead of the garlic butter. you have the play of the french influence into the cuisine right here.
>> the flavors and textures and food ways of west africa are all over southern cooking. and there are few better places to see how short the line between there and here than gullah culture. i'm really enjoying this. i got to tell you. >> this is so delicious. >> oh, my. >> african is traditional gullah cooking. >> i think what happens is you change the location of the people but you did not change who the people were. you did not change the information that they came with with their traditions. >> if you look at the history of american food, you'll quickly see this is one of the first true cuisines of america. >> what's that? what is this? this looks good. >> west africa -- >> right. >> soft shell crabs, in a decidedly west african peanut stew with carolina rice, sauteed squash, and zucchini.
oh, that's so good. >> it's been a while since i've had conch. >> clearly, correct me if i'm wrong, there's a different kind of interest in charleston than existed 20 years ago. right? is something happening here? what's changed? >> it's good to have people, to have a more diverse community in a sense, but then you also lose a little bit. >> the danger is they're coming to charleston because of the beauty and we're having to fight against bigger entities that seek to get the land so they can develop it. and so we're fighting to keep what's been ours and so it's important for us to preserve this area. preserve this culture for generations to come. ♪ >> according to the u.s. government, almost 50% of all the children in this country fail to get their recommended
daily allowance -- >> fast food restaurants have discovered we like our food heavily salted. >> just add water and two of your own fresh eggs. >> because of industry's innovations in farm chemicals and machinery. >> taste it. >> how did it happen that we ended up with southern food being the most sort of cruelly hijacked into this cartoonish parody of itself? >> modern, clean, advanced, complete meat processing. >> i think it's a combination of two massive cultural influences that came together at the same time. the idea of industrialization came late to the south. when it hit, we got the first nutrition laws in america were written in south carolina because everybody moved into mill villages and immediately started eating processed food because they weren't growing their food anymore. the second thing that happened
is there was a massive amount of expertise that was lost during the civil war. >> a lot of the southern revival, the whole turnaround, started with this guy. glen roberts. a man who asked a simple question. how come grits aren't as good as they used to be? by starting the heirloom grain company, decided to do something about it. why do this? why do something as unwanted? meaning nobody was particularly crying, you know, we need rice that used to taste like it did in 1837, we need grits, better grits. what called to you that you felt compelled to answer? >> i'm a cuisine -- you know, i think culture is interactive with cuisine. as soon as you look at cuisine, you're looking at politics, you're looking at medicine,
you're looking at the advanced thinking. >> i'll agree with you, there's nothing more political than food. >> you got it. >> chef mike latta's restaurant, fig, was one of the first and most important on the charleston scene. determined to source the kind of local products you used to find everywhere in the low country. as much as i'd like to illustrate that solid grounding in traditional ingredients and preparations with my order, i would not resist the soft shell crabs which are just in season, with a pasta and shaved bottarga which frankly i'd slit my best friend's throat for. wow, that looks great. >> yeah. >> that's beautiful. sweet. when you had your first plate full of proper rice, is there an instinct to bludgeon the rest of the world in an understanding of what you'd just come to understand? >> i did not run up and down the streets of charleston. it was tough to dislodge people here, so i just went straight to san francisco. >> right. >> i gave away tons of product.
and guess what, they went crazy. >> slow baked black bass, ramps in season, and lettuces. and this to all things glen is responsible for bringing back. heirloom rice and pigs, suckling asabal pig and carolina gold rice. >> isn't that great? >> this is phenomenal. these peas are killer. >> i'm hitting the rice next. >> that's got the entire history of southern agriculture in it. >> right here. >> right there in that little bowl. this whole idea of having a century in a dish, none of this stuff was here 20 years ago. >> near the end of the civil war, during general sherman's scorched earth campaign, seed stores were a favored target. it was largely african slaves who were able to save the seeds that glen is now able to locate and reintroduce. >> it is those people who kept
the corn. it is those people who kept the cow peas. it's those people who kept the vegetables because they couldn't buy their way out of not doing it. >> when you talk about hog foot, americans in the north do not embrace those classics of the south as an overlay of pain and oppression that goes with it. how do we combat that? >> what you're speaking about is walking away from your own culinary heritage because of social sensitivity. bottom line is, if you want something that's compelling, that draws on your soul, this is why they call it soul food. ♪
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i need the finest in turkey-killing couture. i want to be ninja-like and i want to be cool. >> camouflage is the standard go out wearing south carolina, so -- >> i'm bringing that look to new york. the cool, clear morning and i do what any sensible charlestonian would do on a day like this, look for turkeys to kill. pants, need those. >> all right. you know, in south carolina, our state bird is the mosquito. >> right.
so i want to be covered head to toe. >> next thing, we need to get your face covered up. >> going to the waffle house wearing this. this is totally me. >> we do have some turkey vests. >> turkey vest, yes. i just -- this is your last day on earth, mr. turkey. you will die now. prepare to meet your maker. here's the thing about hunting. the likelihood of me successfully shooting even the stupidest animal on camera are about the same as donald trump being gracious to anybody or adam sandler making a good movie. basically, a magical unicorn is going to land in front of me and shower me with candy and vicodins before i shoot a freaking turkey on camera.
[ gunshot ] that shot you heard was me shooting a producer in the calf and telling him to wobble over to the piggy wiggly for a frozen gobbler before he bleeds out. and like magic, behold. turkey. slow, slow barbecued turkey, with all the sides you want and need. what do we got going on here, chef? >> pigs feet and collard greens. pickled pigs feet and collard greens. >> oh, yes. >> barbecue coleslaw. potato salad and ramps. baked red peas. >> there's my weakness right there. >> we made you some very special -- >> mac and cheese. >> bright orange mac and cheese. >> i do like bright orange mac and cheese as you know. that's a turkey. >> yep. >> let that to be lesson to you. >> mike going to grandma's house. >> mike latta from fig is here and jeff, owner of the farm.
at this point, how many others are there like you guys basically keeping it real as far as real southern culinary traditions as far as the jokey ones? >> more than you think. >> how many people is that? >> 12. >> yeah, in a town like this, that's pretty amazing. >> god damn, this is good. pigs feet and green, this is ridiculously good. >> this is really moist for a wild turkey. >> people who say they don't like turkey need to eat this. >> what's your impression of charleston? >> it's one of those weird distinctly american mutations kind of like rock 'n' roll or jazz or blues. >> that's what makes charleston so cool, though, there's really nothing else like it in america and it's been unique since the early part of the 18th century and the city works hard to preserve that. >> we have an incredibly gorgeous city that people want to visit. so we have the advantage of tourism. >> the clientele definitely gives us the opportunity to be this progressive or -- >> almost push us to be more
than we can even be. >> we have an active cuisine. we've recovered all these ingredients and rediscovered a lot of the agricultural influences that were destroyed in the 20th century, but we're not just recreating history. we're not going back and cooking the civil war. these guys are pushing the food forward here and we're creating a new cuisine. >> got to be a happy day when you take a caesar off the menu forever. let me get more of that mac and cheese in a minute. >> hell yeah. ♪
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♪ we're one of the last few hunters in the world. there's no store for us to go offshore to go and pick those fish up. we have to look for them. we have to go and sort of find the ones we're allowed to harvest. we're the last of the final frontier of hunters, you know, to go in and feed the world and that's what we do. >> mark mahefka has been a fisherman since the '70s. he takes and usual and much-needed approach to catching
fish. instead of raking the sea of the same overfished mindlessly populous species, he passionately promotes the just as good and usually better less known and underutilized stuff. >> one of the great things about the low country is the flavor of our waterways and that wasn't being represented properly in all the restaurants. all of a sudden i hear about this guy who has the most beautiful fish you've ever seen, but you got to go to the dock and get it. >> frustrated by the conventional wisdom, mishandling of fish by other distributors and the narrow range on the market, he became his own dealer, starting abundant seafood, one of the country's first community supported fisheries, csfs. he's changed the way people think about so-called trash fish. >> look at how beautiful that is. >> today's catch, trigger fish. any market for these things? >> oh, my god. >> yeah? >> we can't keep it in house enough. >> really? >> really. >> the crazy thing is, like,
even five years ago there wasn't a single one of these on the menu. before we all knew mark, everyone had the same crap on the menu. tuna, snapper. which is good stuff, but as we all know, we overfished that. mark really taught all of us the beauty of stuff like this. >> nice. ♪ >> this is a half-shell style. you leave the scale on, the skin on. >> right. >> cook it one side up. >> it's sort of basting itself. >> it makes, like, a cup. it's very creole. >> is there something out there that you're seeing that's still a hard sell that you wish people would -- >> one of the hardest sells is amber jack. >> amber jack. >> the japanese love it. amber jack. look at that. that is pretty. smells good. >> wow.
yum. >> oh, man. mmm. >> i can eat that 365 days a year. >> charcoal and fish. >> i know. >> damn, that's good. >> wow. ♪ >> everybody thinks there's all this great barbecue in the south. it's 99% terrible barbecue. and so to get real barbecue, you got to drive. >> way out in the weeds, off the main road and good freaking luck if you can find it, is one of the most respected barbecue joints in the u.s. of a. run by one of the most respected old-school pit masters. ask a chef. ask anybody who knows good barbecue and they will tell you where to go. here. a rundown looking takeout about two hours' drive out of charleston in hemingway, south
carolina. now how long have you been doing this is. >> since i was 11. grew up doing this. >> crazy. >> my family started in 1972. so i grew up running around this place. >> it's hard. >> it is. >> that's why no one does it, man. that's why there's nothing but bad barbecue. because in my opinion the only true way to make barbecue is the burn barrel and the pits and you got to stay up all night. >> all night. ♪ >> rodney scott, a man sought after all over the world for some of the finest whole-hog barbecue there is. rodney and his family have been doing it like this and only like this for 43 years. burn barrel, fresh coals, slow, slow, slow cooked all night in the pit. there are no shortcuts. this ain't a craft. this is a calling.
look at that. yes. oh, man. >> got to have a little bit of white rib with it. >> yeah. this is what everybody always gets wrong in new york. you serve cornbread with barbecue, which, of course, falls into crumbles. you got to have that. >> look at that. this is what we call pork spaghetti. >> got to have some of that. >> man, that sauce is nice, too. perfect. right? vinegar and pepper. that's my dad's recipe. >> you do not the standard south carolina mustard dressing at all? i'm sure people are going to be pissed at me about this because people feel strongly about these things. i was not liking that mustard thing. >> around here you scream mustard, they'll think it's going on a hot dog. that's the only thing they know about mustard here. >> oh, good. oh, man, that's just so good. how many hours, about, that pig is cooking? >> 12 hours. >> about 12.
>> you have to love it. you have to be head over heels in love with it to do that every day. i mean, do you ever get sick of eating barbecue? >> no, not yet. not yet. >> we're all going to be rolling out of here with the rodney scott cologne on. what are we fishing for the long brown path before me leading wherever i choose. the east and the west are mine. the north and the south are mine. all seems beautiful to me. ♪ it was always just a hobby. something you did for fun. until the day it became something much more.
what are we fishing for here? >> well, out here we got spot tail bass, flounder, sea trout. >> really? >> yeah. >> i got you. >> the way you fish here, throw it out as far as you can and just leave it. >> just leave it? >> that's the cool thing about fishing out here. >> i don't have to be working, not much skill involved. so how am i doing in learning to be a red neck department? not wearing shoes. >> you're looking good. without shoes on, a fishing pole in your hand on a dock. that's pretty awesome. that's a different pace here, man. you know, this is the way to live. >> i enjoy it.
love that waffle house, man. i tell you, that was like a -- i like your restaurant and all. i guess you're some kind of good chef, but that waffle house. that is a phenomenon. >> it really is. ♪ >> peanuts with whiskey. >> oh, yeah? ♪ ♪ >> that's good. that is nice. >> it's so good. how's the visit, too, to charleston? >> it's been great. this is a special place. really is. >> very unique. it's been a lot of fun to watch
the food scene here go from kind of what everybody else is doing, was doing, to doing something very singular. very special. >> and when you got a tradition and when you have traditional recipes and a story behind food like you have here, that's a really cool thing. >> well, the thing is, i'm still discovering stuff here. i've been here 12 years. >> the barbecue that rodney gave us was sick, man. >> he is -- he is a force to be reckoned with, man. you talk about europe, everybody travels hours to go somewhere or travels hours by car. it's the same thing here. we just do it for barbecue. got a hit? >> i don't know. we'll see. yeah. >> you did. it bit right below the hook. >> yeah. so that's an intelligent mother [ muted ] fish, too. being intelligent. >> hook up under the bottom lip. >> ouch.
open. oh, he got my leg. he's an eel seeking -- where you think you're going, buddy? one of those evil seeking, those fish in fact the amazon that swim up your --. nice try, buddy. ♪ ♪ ain't nobody on the water but me but the sun's coming up ♪ >> who doesn't want to end with this? the old fishing hole. quality bourbon. no need for shoes. >> i think the crab are just having a minnow buffet. [ laughter ] >> in such circumstances, whether you actually catch any fish is completely beside the point. come on, man, not bad for a yankee.