tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN January 8, 2017 10:00pm-11:01pm PST
♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ ♪ i drink up me rum ♪ >> anthony: nearly a year on the road, all those miles, all those airports, infinite variety of awful plumbing. it was time for something low impact. ♪ iron bar, iron bar >> anthony: so off to jamaica. ♪ iron bar, iron bar me nuh wan no gal ♪ >> anthony: this is the first time i've ever driven a car on a
wrong side of the road. i mean, knowingly. how hard can it be? oh, i get to pass on the right too. woo-hoo-hoo. thankfully we have a roll bar. but, this time, a different angle. you probably know of jamaica as a vacation paradise, but it's worth mentioning this is a divided country and has been in one form or another since the days of slavery. there's a small minority who control most everything and there's the poorer, generally darker-skinned majority. less connected, left out. jamaican cuisine, a lot of it, still reflects this conflicted history. breadfruit, salt-fish -- this was slave food. cheap, long-lasting, filling, introduced, basically, as feed. ♪ iron bar, iron bar a mi nuh waan no gal ♪
>> anthony: day one. first order of business, get my, you know, some jerk chicken. ♪ can you blame me? no, i think not. oh, that's good. yeah, yeah, i know this routine, believe me. it's brown, it's murky, and it burns, mommy. it burns. and there are still, all these years later, two jamaicas. there's the jamaica that most jamaicans live in, cook in, struggle to survive in. the real jamaica. then there's the jamaica, which you're probably more familiar with.
♪ ooh ooh waa ♪ ooh ooh waa ♪ ooh ooh waa ♪ ooh ooh >> anthony: but tourists have been coming to jamaica for a long time. when this part of the island, particularly port antonio, threatened to become an international jet set destination. local legend has it that errol flynn was shipwrecked here on his yacht in 1947 and promptly fell in love with the place. before flynn it had been an empire of bananas. a huge industry that later became united fruit. bananas went out, tourists came in. the banana business eventually went elsewhere and when tourism shifted to the other side of the island with the construction of an airport at montego bay, well, that was pretty much it. the northeast coast was largely
forgotten. ♪ it has the feel, still, of a forgotten paradise. there are those who believe that the area can come back, that it must come back, that the future is in hotels and resorts and restaurants for wealthy visitors as it once was. take this place, for instance -- the trident hotel. expensive, luxurious. best of all, i'm the only guest. oh, did mention it comes with a
castle? what kind of person would own a building like that? who? why? then this man arrived and kind of answered that question. all of this belongs to michael lee-chin. local boy turned billionaire. one of the richest men in the world, and my host. he's invited me for dinner. >> anthony: right, yeah. that sounds like a plan. but first we need crabs for that dinner, i'm told, caught in the traditional style. a drink is in order. >> christopher: cheers, man, respect. crabbing. >> group: crabbing. >> anthony: lot of crab holes. this time of year, port antonio
is literally crawling with crabs, i'm told. it'll be really easy. just scoop up the little bastards and then it's back to the pool. >> anthony: no, i'm looking. i'll lunge at 'em. >> man: it's hot. i think it's that rum, you know? >> man 2: it's really thick in the bush, you know? >> anthony: it's sweltering, freaking hot, and dark. >> man: you find something? >> man 2: yeah. here, here, here. >> man: awesome, man. >> anthony: but it doesn't seem to bother the hotel chefs who willingly risk dismemberment for the sake of procuring a tasty dinner. >> man: we want him alive. we have questions to ask him. where are your friends? >> anthony: oh yeah. >> man: you know? >> anthony: one crab down, 49 left to go. >> man: if they are for tony. we got to get some more tonight, so -- >> anthony: i'm frankly anxious to get this over with so when the opportunity arises to stick my paw down into a hole where there's probably a pissed off crab looking to clamp down on my pinky with his pincers, i could care less. nothing, no, nobody home.
>> christopher: oh, ants. ah, damn it. i think i stepped in an ant nest. >> anthony: are those fire ants? wonderful, please attack my nut sack. anything to get this over with quicker. >> colin: ah, he's running. hey, man. >> anthony: okay. now, i don't want to kill the little guy. >> colin: that's the right idea. right and left, right and left. >> anthony: whoa. >> man: yeah! nice one. expert. >> anthony: next. what seems like several sweltering hours later, it's mission accomplished and it's back to home base in time to get ready for dinner at the castle followed by a party i'm told. >> michael: do you recognize this, tony? >> anthony: i put this guy in a bag tonight. i'm joined by billionaire michael, his partner jon baker, music producer and hotelier, jon's wife nordia, errol flynn's grandson, luke flynn, and his wife skye.
you grew up in this, in this -- >> michael: yes. >> anthony: -- in this area. what was port antonio like in the '50s? >> michael: port antonio was -- it was vibrant, banana, lots of wealthy tourists. so, port antonio was a happening place. ♪ ♪ go down emmanuel road girl and boy go break rock stone ♪ ♪ break them one by one break them two by two ♪ ♪ finger mash no mind remember play we a play ♪ >> anthony: you're a man with diverse financial interests. banks, communications. as a veteran of 30 years in the hospitality business, why?
why would you do such a hard and probably unprofitable thing? i mean, usually unprofitable. >> michael: you're being very kind. >> anthony: it's a really -- business generally speaking. >> michael: well, i thought you're smart and that you're brilliant, but your behavior shows that you're dumb. >> anthony: no, no. i know the answer, you're, you're -- are you a romantic? >> michael: great things cannot -- will happen when you romanticize, you dream, you aspire, you see a vision and you settled to achieve that vision. trident is here to catalyze people to come to port antonio and discover, wow, wow, and wow again. >> anthony: where does it cross over? where all of the things you love about, about this area, where all of the villas are spanking new and people are building 400-room hotels, is there a
threshold where things start to not be the things that you loved about the place in the first place and how do you guard against that? >> michael: you know, tony, port antonio is a long way from getting there. it has not progressed out of the '50s. >> jon: it's had very little tourism in recent years. >> anthony: why isn't there lots of -- ? everybody loves reggae, everybody loves bob marley, everybody loves spicy delicious jamaican food. what the problem? >> jon: because you don't get off a plane and go a hundred yards to an all-inclusive. there's no real lift here. you have to get here. >> anthony: it's that simple, there's no -- >> jon: it's as simple as a lift and it's as simple as we're shrouded by the blue mountains and it's an effort to get here so it filters out certain forms of travelers. so we have to make it a little bit easier to get -- >> anthony: i mean, you get beat out by a lot of lame islands, let's face it. >> jon: oh, totally.
>> luke: yeah. and even in jamaica, lamer areas. for me, i say if someone says, "oh i've been to jamaica" and they haven't been to port antonio, i'm like, "really you didn't get a real feeling of jamaica." >> michael: you can go many places in the world and find natural beauty, people who are genuinely warm, where there's a strong culture of food, strong culture in terms of music, and, at the same time, be able to be a part of a community and you can be a visitor without being a part of the tourist industry. ♪
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>> anthony: hello. during world war ii, british naval intelligence officer ian fleming came to jamaica on a secret mission to investigate possible u-boat activity. like the legendary character he would later create, he was a spy. the mission came to nothing, but fleming fell immediately in love with the island and vowed to return, which he did, buying this place, goldeneye. at the time considered very spartan, a cottage, a single room really, a few smaller rooms in the back, but an incredible view. he spent much of the rest of his life here writing a book each year at this desk. you know those books.
today, fleming's cottage has been enlarged and made more luxurious as a hotel, but the original house still stands along with some improvements. grotto, eh? what did every young american boy want? every red-blooded american male born in 1956, i can tell you. they wanted a grotto. it sounded pretty good to me at 12. as i got older i started to think about these things, like, "exactly who was in that grotto before me" becomes more of a concern as you grow up. it's like -- did ron jeremy just leave the grotto? am i the first one in the grotto? has someone changed the water in the grotto? these were -- these were concerns later in life, but this was it. i wanted a grotto. i still kind of do. thank you so much. this is totally better than the playboy mansion.
you know that the playboy mansion totally smells like old man ear stink. the current owner of goldeneye is another unusual man, chris blackwell, legendary music producer turned hotelier. over the years, blackwell has expanded the property into a resort. its gates reaching right up to the fishing beach at neighboring oracabessa. blackwell has big plans for the area. ♪ the next day, i leave goldeneye's luxurious embrace, headed into town for something, well, i just had to have. a long time favorite. what do we have here? oh, oxtail. >> chris: yeah, man. curried goat. >> anthony: oh sweet. i don't care whether it's the
bronx or kingston or wherever i can get it, oxtail, curried goat, callaloo, and, of course, rice and pigeon peas. got to have that. got to love the food in this country. >> chris: man, it's the best. >> anthony: it's such a mix. >> chris: asian. oh, yeah. >> anthony: african. a lot of people totally miss out, i mean curry goat, that's -- >> chris: yeah, man. it's asian stuff. >> anthony: it comes from the east indies, what they used to call -- >> chris: that's true. >> anthony: chef chris's cook-shop has become something of a local institution, a thriving business in a town that's seen better days. how long have you been open here? >> chris: i've been open, this little shop, for 13 years. >> anthony: 13 years? >> chris: yeah, man. >> anthony: the town changed in that time or stayed the same? >> chris: well, right now, you know, we're in, um, our economy is not doing so good right now so -- >> anthony: why not? it's one of the most beautiful areas in the world. >> chris: yeah, for real, we have a beautiful waterfront. >> anthony: beautiful weather. >> chris: yeah, beautiful ladies. >> anthony: fantastic food. >> chris: yeah, what more could a guy ask for?
>> anthony: what do you think went wrong? i mean, why -- why would people stop coming? >> chris: i guess the guys in the top seat messed it up so they're trying to correct it now. you know? >> anthony: it's expanding fast. >> chris: yeah, it is. >> anthony: the town. >> chris: it is. >> anthony: i mean, they're going to be building all the way -- >> chris: yeah, all the way down there. >> anthony: all the way around. >> chris: yeah, so -- >> anthony: so that's thousands of tourists. >> chris: yeah, thousands. >> anthony: like, probably -- >> chris: to be honest, i'm waiting for that moment. i don't want to think. ♪ >> chris: we really need that, you know, because this town was dying fast and real fast so chris blackwell came back and now he's booming the town so it's a good step in the right direction. >> anthony: oh, thank you. oh yeah, see now, now i'm happy. that is just beautiful. nice place to grow up? >> chris: it is. >> anthony: what -- what's it like being a kid?
>> chris: my tale is that i used to spend it at the beach. >> anthony: that's pretty good. >> chris: yeah. >> anthony: who gets to do that? >> chris: well, i guess only me and my friends. >> anthony: but, i mean, do you ever, do you ever take it for granted like you ever say -- do you ever get -- ? >> chris: yeah, we do. >> anthony: you do? >> chris: we do, we do. see, the thing about it when we really need it that's the time we can't have it, you know? because a lot of our waterfronts have been gone and, uh, we have very little right now. you know, it's okay we have james bond beach like ten minutes walk from here also so at least we are one of the lucky ones. hey! you know, progressive
♪ >> anthony: it's inevitable, of course, that next door to goldeneye there would be a james bond beach. >> carl: all of the bond movies were conceptualized and written here. >> anthony: when blackwell heard i wanted to visit the local fishermen, he hooked me up with his good friend carl to accompany me. i'm here to hit dr. hoe's, a local rum bar where one can indulge in a typical hard-working fisherman's breakfast -- rum. >> anthony: so we drinking rum here, we drinking beer, we drinking rum and beer? >> carl: all i know, it's hardcore.
>> anthony: but you're recommending just, like, some beer and some rum together. >> fisherman: steel bottom, now. >> carl: all right. >> anthony: yeah. >> carl: steel bottom now, right? going to do one part of rum. >> anthony: one, yep. >> carl: right, and four parts of beer. no water, no ice, try that. it's a steel bottom, meaning it's not -- >> anthony: it's good. it'll work. >> carl: and you could take it to your dimension. >> anthony: so who fishes here? you fish? >> fisherman: yeah. >> anthony: what are you fishing for? >> carl: hold on, let me get -- it's multiple fishing. >> anthony: right. >> carl: it could be your snapper, your parrot, your grunt -- >> man: exactly. >> anthony: right. so is business better these days or worse these days? >> carl: okay. >> man: worse. >> anthony: worse. right? >> carl: over fishing is a problem. >> anthony: oracabessa is a fishing village, for now at least. all throughout the caribbean fish stocks are in decline, and making a living from the sea is getting harder and harder. >> carl: so right here has actually become a fishing sanctuary where we're trying to
now revive the fish stock around the island. >> anthony: so if this becomes a protected sanctuary what are you going to do for a living? >> carl: yeah, so you have to go -- >> anthony: further out. >> carl: -- further out to sea for deep-sea fishing. >> anthony: that means more gas. >> carl: more gas, less fish. so it's a strain, right? >> anthony: is there a future for the traditional fishing industry in jamaica or do you think, like every place else in the caribbean, is it going to end up an entirely tourist economy? >> anthony: this is -- >> carl: but what is happening >> anthony: i keep -- here's what i'm kind of getting at. rich people want to live what they see as a simple life. in their minds, they want to live the life of a jamaican fisherman. they want to live the life of somebody who doesn't have a lot of money, but the people who
actually do that now are giving up their living and essentially entering the tourist sector. there's a certain amount of weird irony at work here. who gets to live in paradise? >> carl: nobody because guess what -- >> there is a lot of things going on here, right? i write a piece of paper. the native here. >> anthony: this architect's model sits in one of goldeneye's offices showing what oracabessa's coastline will look like if all goes according to plan. >> fisherman: no, i'm talking the truth. >> anthony: i'm no expert on local politics but whatever is going on here has clearly stirred up some strong emotions.
>> man: that one is true. >> fisherman: as they -- >> carl: hold on, hold on, hold on. >> fisherman: wait a minute. wait a minute. i'm talking. >> carl: hold on, hold on, hold on, hold on. >> fisherman: wait a minute, chris. >> carl: you got -- you got to stop talk. >> fisherman: hold on. >> carl: me said stop bumbaclot -- >> fisherman: why i have to stop talk -- >> carl: me says stop talking. me no wanna hear no more of that. >> man: hold on, hold on. >> carl: let's cool, man, let's cool, man. let's stop talk -- stop talk. >> fisherman: we gonna talk reality -- >> carl: all right, all right, big man, stop talk. >> fisherman: why? >> carl: come here. come here. [ all speaking over one another ] >> carl: yeah. no, no, no, go back. go back. >> fisherman: don't do that.
>> carl: no, no, go sit down. >> man: for the interview. >> anthony: which is better, to be your own man, uphold family tradition in a dangerous ever-shrinking, ever more difficult business trying to catch fish in the sea or carry a golf bag for a wealthy tourist? i couldn't tell you. i was in the service industry cooking people's food for most of my working life so it's not like i have anything against it, but i don't know. >> carl: it's a joyous day. let us find the spirit in man and travel to the unknown. at the end because we're here in the present that it just started. it is coming we out of the unknown, out of the nothingness, and we're going to go on into the information highway into the celestial. we are what you call astral travelers, so traveling dimension to dimension. if one man die, all men dead.
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by a guy who lived here two months out of the year. that place down there, probably the same, two months a year. sad to say i think it's unlikely that 50 years from now anyone but the extraordinarily fortunate, the extraordinarily connected, and the extraordinarily rich will be able to even look at a vista like this. that is my personal theory. look, here i am, fully aware of the irony of the situation. it's like the whole preservation thing, who preserve for who? save the reef, for who? save the beach, for whom? not you, probably. ♪
later that evening, blackwell invited me to his private bar just down the cliff from fleming's old villa. there are very few pieces of land anywhere on earth like this, especially with this kind of legendary status. >> chris blackwell: legendary status, yes, it's fleming. it's really bond's birthplace. >> anthony: chris blackwell is the founder of island records. he's credited with discovering bob marley and spreading the gospel of reggae into the mainstream all across the world. to the extent that one person could sort of be responsible for the soundtrack of your life, you are responsible for much of the soundtrack of my life. you signed roxy music and brian eno both, yes?
>> chris blackwell: yes. >> anthony: did you have any idea, signing bob marley, the extent to which his image alone would blow up to -- to, you know, che guevara level. >> chris blackwell: bob somehow managed to touch people in every corner of the world in different cultures, different societies. um, no, i never could've imagined. i do not think anybody could've imagined, it's so unbelievable. >> anthony: having sold island records for a sum rumored to be in the hundreds of millions of dollars, blackwell spends his time, well, doing whatever he wants. >> anthony: you have a number of hotel properties, uh, rum business. >> chris blackwell: mm-hmm. >> anthony: what's the master plan? >> chris blackwell: master plan? >> anthony: or are you just having fun? >> chris blackwell: well, always is to have fun, it's part of the master plan. you only live around here one time so i'm very excited about here, what i'm doing here.
i'm trying to break a little resort town. it's something that filters into the town, filters into the parish, filters into the country. >> anthony: lately the project at hand is the oracabessa fish sanctuary set up to protect the local fish habitat and breeding grounds. a noble cause, but one that has put blackwell squarely at odds with some of his neighbors. it seems to me that most people who come to jamaica pretty much stay within the compound of, you know, sandals or whatever and don't really get out there much. >> chris blackwell: it's a business model and that business model works well for people. ♪ the market that i'm going for are the ones on the high level
in terms of a high cost level. >> anthony: is it an inevitability that basically all of the caribbean -- that it's essentially going to end up as a service economy? >> chris blackwell: yes, i think -- yes, i think, i think mainly so and then it's based on tourism. it's based on people visiting. >> anthony: it's a tough balance. the engine that's going to preserve or save is often dependent on who's coming to look and what they're willing to pay to come and look. can there be a balance, do you think? i mean, can a place this beautiful be unspoiled forever? >> chris blackwell: i think, i think there could be a couple hundred places like this in jamaica. as long as there are people who can go and spend some money in communities. go to little restaurants, go to little bar, go to, you know, shop, that's essential for jamaica to really thrive.
>> anthony: if life were a bond film, who would you be in a bond film? >> chris blackwell: well, there's only one hero in a bond film. that's -- >> anthony: oh. you'd be the hero? >> chris blackwell: i'd have to be, i'd have to figure that out, yes. >> anthony: i don't know that i'd be the villain. i'd be like number 17. >> chris blackwell: he has a happy -- unhappy ending. >> anthony: yes. frequently. >> chris blackwell: and his end is cut short, yeah.
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visitors, white sand, clear, warm water, and of course, local food. >> cynthia: this is ackee, jamaica favorite dish. typical in jamaica, we use it as a breakfast. >> anthony: cynthia and dennis run this place and come highly recommended. i'm told this is the spot for the classic gotta-have-it or you really ain't been to jamaica, ackee and salt fish. salt cod, rehydrated and cooked with ackee, a local fruit that happens to be toxic if you don't handle it right. now, they say best ackee and salt fish. >> cynthia: in jamaica. >> anthony: anywhere. and yeah, also some banana. >> joy: delicious. >> anthony: that is delicious. >> joy: yeah. >> anthony: cynthia's friends joy and margery also have little restaurants or food stalls on the beach and they tell me that here, too, it's in danger of redevelopment.
that all this might disappear into the ever-churning wheel of, well -- ♪ ooh ooh waa ♪ ooh ooh waa ♪ ooh ooh >> cynthia: winnifred beach is a public beach. it has been one of the best beach in jamaica. the beach was left to give the poor people of jamaica. >> anthony: so the government takes it over, supposedly to make it a public space, but they want to sell it to a, what? a hotel group? >> cynthia: yeah, they want to make like a resort. >> anthony: there are a lot of islands in the caribbean where you're not allowed to own a beach. meaning all beaches are public even if it's a really exclusive hotel, at least theoretically, anybody can go. >> cynthia: right. >> anthony: here it's different. here if you could buy a house and the beach you can -- if you -- you're a hotel, you can make it a private beach, meaning they don't let the locals on or vendors or anything. >> joy: right. >> anthony: they can keep people out. >> joy: right. >> anthony: so how many public
access beaches are there in this area? >> joy: one. >> anthony: just one. >> margery: one. this one, this one, no more, no more. >> anthony: and that's it. >> joy: no more. >> cynthia: i think -- >> margery: no more beach. >> cynthia: we have other beaches around, you know?lagoon. and this is the only public one. you know. >> yeah, what happens if -- i mean, that would be sort of ridiculous if jamaicans can't go to the beach in jamaica. >> exactly. >> there are two sides to every story, of course, and the government, for its part, claims locals will still have access to their beach. >> we don't trust them. so we do not believe what they said. >> they want to get us off and six, seven years, they don't do anything on it and close its off.
>> what kind of monstrous human being or organization would displace the people from their own beach? >> freedom. >> thank you very much. >> we feel like we are in prison. >> yeah. because when the time is hot, you have nowhere to come and swim. >> so we the people, we are in court with the government because we do not want them to take away the one and only beach that we have in jamaica, portland. >> what do you think your chances are? do you think your chances are good? are you going to win? >> yes. i've been fighting over seven years. >> seven years? >> several years. and i said i'm going to fight until i reach the top. when i reach the top and i lose, i feel much better. but i'm not giving up. >> let's face it, there are only so many beaches in this world, even fewer unspoiled beaches and even fewer beaches like this. >> i mean, that's one of the
things that's nice about this area is it's not a big resort area like some of the other parts. and the food is amazing. >> delicious. >> you can't get this at the hotel. >> not that dish. >> that is so fresh. >> really, really tasty. i'm going to have to come back here, like, tomorrow. >> okay. >> whenever people come here and they have problem, they go to the sea and they look over there in the ocean. and when they are finished, they never have a problem again. it goes right in the water and down. >> and i hope that the world can see what's going on and that they can come out and enjoy the beauty of the beach, the nature of the beach, the people and the love of the beach. >> right.
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hi. wow. what a spread. i'm not going hungry today. thank you. beautiful. i'm so excited. that is actually quite delicious. i'm not missing out on starches. you've got yam, rice, peas, corn, carrots, dumplings, festival. my demand said eat dessert first. life is uncertain. >> that's good. i knew i was coming back here. i knew it was a smart move to come back here. these ladies can cook.
>> point being the way the world turns, the inevitable grind of history seems to indicate that places like this and people like this get plowed under, pushed aside, paved over. who owns paradise after all? who in the end gets to own paradise? use paradise or even visit it? that is a question that's probably worth paying attention to. before there's none left at all. ♪ ♪ how do you do this and be a good person? i don't think you can. like if you wanted to do this regularly for the rest of your life, i would like to spend three months out of the year in a hammock looking out at the
caribbean in a secluded beach like this. you'd have to do bad things to do this, right? james bond doesn't get this. james bond is a hustler. he gets this for a couple of days before he moves on to the next location. the guy who lives there is the bond villain. not james bond. ian fleming was much closer to, like, blowfeld or hugo dracks.
those guys had lots of leisure time, sitting around in hammocks trying to figure out how to take over the world. a lot of downtime in world domination. bond was a working classman. that's what i've been missing. all right. summon the robot piranhas. summon the robot piranhas. where is my cocktail? -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com rising tensions. north korea says it is able to launch its most advance the missile anytime and blames the u.s. as the reason they're stepping up the threat. an act of terror. israel ramps up security after a deadly attack on its soldiers, the prime minister says isis played a role. plus, a big night for the musical "la, la land." live in atlanta, welcome to our viewers in the united states and around the world. i'm george howell. "cnn newsroom" starts right now.