tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN February 10, 2017 10:00pm-11:01pm PST
>> it's a temptation that is almost irresistant. they is ducks of flash, palm trees, balmy nights, deco architecture, the manufactured dreams of many television shows made real. across the causeway, a few miles down the way, there were other worlds. older ones. i think it's safe to say, better ones. way out west 20 miles from the airport tucked in another strict
mall, you go there because, well, you need coffee. and because cuba respects and because michelle bernstein there. >> this was a long time getting here. >> you need a car. it's miami. this is like the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of miami's most iconic influential chefs, born and bred here. >> when people say where did you grow up? >> miami. >> where? >> this is way out west. you can't get much further southwest than this. >> what's beyond here? >> swampland. >> body disposal. >> can you say that. i can't. >> this restaurant we would come to for the seafood and it was elegant. >> you have the waiters in the bolerros. >> there are still cuban places that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee
in miami. >> what do they call them? >> it's a big cup with little cups. >> like the caffeine version of a one-hitter. i would have one of those and at the next place i have another and i get increasingly jangly. >> i grew up on it. at 4, we give our babies coffee. they taste it and grow up loving coffee. >> that's good. this is a non-judgmental land in miami. >> it is. you can get away with almost anything. >> it's good. >> so glad you like it. a lot of people don't like it. they think it's too sweet. >> any of you watching this sandwich thing they call cubano that you may or may not have had before, you think a cubano
sandwich. you would be wrong. this is not it strictly speaking. a cousin like a cubano they have roast pork, ham, swiss cheese and pickles and mustard. it is pressed until hot and runny inside. >> the bread is darker and sweeter. you have a contrast with the salty pickles and the pork and the bread. see how juicy that is? that's a telling of a cuban sandwich. >> a lot of people try to improve on this. >> how is it? >> it's good. a lot of fun is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> this is the perfect breakfast. >> i go for the salty and never the sweet.
domain. >> there is one place i keep coming back to. a place where if you look deep enough and ask the right questions, you can get a history of miami from man. this man. matt kline. >> you have to remember you are speaking to a 100-year-old man. >> you look good. you look good. if i looked that good when i'm 60, i will be happy. >> the amazing thing about being 100 is a year ago i was 99. nobody paid attention to me. didn't care. i became 100 and my god. >> matt kline is the owner, proprietor and regular bartender turned 100 yearsld this year. yes, 100. he's still here. the cigarette smoke and dark atmosphere is really good for a guy who has seen it all.
>> at 73, fort benning, georgia. >> matt came to miami from new york's lower east side by way of the battle of normandy. >> the warm weather was much better for me. >> a lot of gis here during the war? >> the war made miami for the reason that people are stationed here and they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, they saw a massive inflex. hotels that saw a sharp drop in business to house troops at the empty resorts. >> they told their parents about it and their parents came down and they opened it. it was jewish at the time. that's how it started. >> by the fall of 1942, 78,000 troops were living in 300 hotels in miami and miami beach.
miami beach turned over at least six times. this was their favorite bar. >> it makes sense. >> it was very flattering. it's flattering to have you here. to many more. it is one of the most powerful tools our species has created. and now we unleash it on your taxes. hello my name is watson. yep. h&r block and ibm watson together.
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envisioned different kinds of paradise. a new jerusalem in the infinitely expanding real estate. fill in where there is water and you got property. build a new venice with the hollywood fantasy architecture and grand canals. gondolas in the sun. the dream was as expandible as the space. there was no magically terra sort of firma. in the 80s, there was a decline and there was a new and vibrant economy and they filled miami with new buildings and shiny
cars and swanky nightclubs and floods of cash and a new reputation for murder and criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made for better or worse, miami sexy again. going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? i mean that in a good way. >> outlaw culture is a big part of american culture. >> they said in florida, we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges and hand guns. there is no indigenous industry. we sell sunshine. the only jobs are in hospitality and restaurants. >> real estate. >> real estate. it's all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981, the fbi called miami the most violent city in america. they brought in an estimated 7
to $12 billion a year. that's 1981 money. that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries is cocaine cowboys. the film, made by these guys. >> things were in decline. cocaine is going to save the scene? >> we would say so. you get in trouble. 25% of the bodies. >> we talked about the reality of where a lot of modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard when in miami in season. stone crabs. >> federal reserve branch in
miami had a $5 billion cash surplus at mostly 50s and $100 bills that had trace elements of cocaine on them. they are now in medicare. >> they are probably here. >> where is the money now? the house business in general in miami. where is that business coming from? >> the rebound from the great recession, they thought it would take almost a decade. by 2010 or 2011, thingsurned around and we are in the middle of a huge boom. it's wealthy foreigners and a lot of flight capital from overseas. russians. >> russians. if it's money looted from another country, do we care? trickle down. >> it propped up miami with an inflated bubble and the question is, how long will it last?
in a city not my own, i called somebody if they were not good enough they have become somewhat of an expert. >> every time i check instagram, you are eating with the heroes. you are eating a gyroand he seems to like you a lot better than me. they are quest love. >> you have been to this place so far. >> i live at this place. >> yard bird became a miami favorite serving over the top
classics to them. that's to us. >> the old joke that was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. the teacher. d.j. >> we are counting and we have 16 jobs right now. >> the deviled eggs are so over it. but i want like ten more. delicious. fried green tomatoes. this is the perfect thing for a guy looking to squeeze in a size 28 speedo to hit the beach. >> to five times a year. >> what are makes it sound different than the detroit or philadelphia or new york sound? whatever. >> you can't say something specific. philadelphia had more in their arrangement where as stacks
records had more in theirs. i consider the sound of miami to be the beginning of great dance music. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes and you'll want to die on the toilet like her did after this carbo load. >> anthony: if we're doing the elvis experience right, i should be eating a fist full of -- >> anthony: yard bird's signature fried chicken comes with chilled spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they brine the chicken 17 hours to be exact. >> anthony: to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> questlove: you still don't understand? >> anthony: i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do love fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay. >> questlove: you don't want your food integrated?
>> anthony: shrimp and grits, a southern classic made with florida shrimp, virginia ham, and south carolina stone ground grits. >> anthony: i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> questlove: whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened. >> anthony: aqua lung, jethro tull, i whipped into a murderous rage right away. >> questlove: even now? >> anthony: even now. i'm angry that that band ever existed. i hate that old englishy, old, bar minstrely, stand on one leg mother -- hate that shit. you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and jethro tull, he's my version of that.
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railroads in the late 19th and 20th centuries by this guy. henry morrison flagger, the tycoon largely credited with big the father of modern florida. his dream was the florida east coast railway, which would run from jacksonville to key west connecting the ports of miami to along its route new towns, new cities, new edens where america's rising middle class could frolic and play. he also agreed to lay a foundation for the city on both sides of the miami river. as more and more whitemoved in, segregation took hold and much of the bahamian community was forced into the black neighborhoods like overtown and liberty city. if you're looking for old miami,
original miami you're looking for a great extent, black miami. ♪ these days liberty city is mostly ignored by developers, but back in the day it was the epicenter of the black community. a lot has happened since then. >> cook: corn beef, pancakes, smoked sausage, boiled eggs. >> anthony: what do you usually get? >> luther: the fishy grits. that's a bahamian dish. >> anthony: your parents were jamaican and bahamian. >> luther: yes. my mother was bahamian.
my dad was jamaican. >> anthony: today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. >> anthony: a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> luther: oh, yeah. one night we'd have rice and peas. the other night we'd have peas and rice. >> anthony: also known as uncle luke or perhaps luke sky walke at various times. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. credited with pioneering what would be called miami bass. maybe you know him from such hits as 2 live crews "me so horny" and "do wa didi" or the ground breaking far use supreme court case campbell v. akafroze music. >> anthony: how do you end up different from growing up in miami than you would growing up in l.a or new york? >> luther: a lot of people would have said southern people, whatever they want to call us, in all actuality, we're an island town.
miami was made of bohemians that built the city of miami. so now you have a lot of different cultures. >> anthony: caribbean, southern american. very, very different. >> luther: yeah. >> anthony: how was that mix? how has that impacted music? >> luther: when people think about me, this guy makes bootie shaking music. everybody's dancing. everybody is dancing in a sexual way. the girls are standing up on you. the girls stand up on you and put their butt on you. >> anthony: i've seen this on television. >> luther: it's no different than a lap dance. >> anthony: among your other accomplishments, you ran for office. >> luther: yeah. >> anthony: about 70% residents of miami speak spanish at home. >> luther: uh-huh. >> anthony: enormous
african-american, caribbean community. how come this state keeps electing conservative white guys? >> luther: conservative white guys, their paying them popular pastor. don't say nothing, don't energize you're people. you have a whole quiet community. you didn't get them excited about voting. >> anthony: it is the opposite of get out it is don't bother to vote. >> luther: don't bother to vote. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlotte gris would have won the governor's race. >> anthony: if you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> luther: best weather. >> anthony: how do you handle the cold if you have to tour or something and you have to spin a week or two weeks detroitr chicago or something? >> luther: my mind-set is i don't haveo deal with this every day. i'm going back to sunshine. when i have that on my mind, i can go into any city. i can go into a blizzard. i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> anthony: this is really good.
>> anthony: back inland, another world of little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the b&m market is tucked away in the back. and they serve dishes that make me happiest. jerk chicken, who doesn't love that? curried goat, roti, and this. cow-foot soup. the real deal too. flavors, textures, some next level stuff. >> anthony: that looks, by the way, unbelievable. that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> women: the mix of cultures that we've got. >> anthony: what's the worst thing? >> women: you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people, because that's how i am. >> anthony: right. >> women: and i don't get a hi back a lot here >> anthony: to what do you contribute this? >> women: the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted. they are from south america,
central america. their whole plan is to come here do what they can to send to their family to live in the home of their dreams and then go which is is great. i would probably do the same thing. >> anthony: if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, and i mean this absolutely, find some place on the beach and descend into my crocodile skinned, late era george hamilton phase, walk up and down metal detector, with shorts up to here, but that would be me. peopleho go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> women: ask me when the last time i went to the beach was. >> anthony: when was the last time i went to the beach? >> women: about a year and a half ago. >> anthony: what the -- is that? >> women: we're working. >> anthony: if you weren't working, would you be at the beach more often?
>> women: my dream's to have a house on the beach. i don't know why. i never go, but i love it. and i always say i will never live in south florida if i didn't live near water. i live near water and i leave my doors open a lot, and i get the breeze, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go into my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> anthony: okay. why do some cash back cards make earning bonus cash back so complicated? they limit where you can earn bonus cash back to a few places... ...and those places keep changing every few months. the quicksilver card from capital one doesn't do any of that. with quicksilver you earn unlimited 1.5% cash back
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♪ ♪ standing here in the rain trying to wash away my singing ♪ ♪ baby gone and left me i don't think she's coming back again ♪ >> anthony: before miami bass, before the miami sound machine, there was a miami sound. the music, the original miami sound weir talking about came from this man willie clark and this place. >> anthony: what was this space originally? >> willie: this was a little restaurant smaller than this and western on the other side of the record shop. >> anthony: now it looks like a nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of deep city records.
willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city, recording and promoting local talent. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank williams and the rocketeers. >> anthony: everything you've ever been credited for either producing or writing, it is a very, very long list, quite an amazing list. >> willie: it is about 1200. >> anthony: 1200 songs. >> willie: it just flows. i'm like a song mechanic. you bring it to me. i'll help you fix it. >> anthony: william and his writing partner clarence "blowfly" reed wrote such classics as "clean up woman" and "rocking chair." deep city was miamis answer to motown. >> anthony: 50 years, 100 years from now, search and punch in the miami sound, your name is going to come up right away as principal creator of the miami sound.
what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> willie: the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican, and people came down from georgia and alabama, but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> anthony: right. >> willie: we would have bands who would march from over town all the way to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and the marching, i would say that was the main difference. >> anthony: and you were teaching school during a lot of this period? >> willie: yeah, i was teaching school. i would walk in the front door of the school, i would look around, put my sign in, and walk out the back door and go straight to the studio.
but you know, the principal knew what i was doing. >> anthony: yep. >> willie: i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> anthony: you're still out there so your songs are still being played, still being sampled, which is good, right? that's great. >> willie: it weren't for the the part of record industry that kept us alive was europe. >> anthony: the collectors must go crazy. maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> willie: if i had known back then, i guess we would still be over there. biggest motown or bigger. >> anthony: this is an island, isn't it? it is kind of an island. >> willie: i think it's worse
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anthony: another day, another country. miami is like that. you can eat your way across the caribbean and through all of latin america and then over to africa, if you'd like. it's all there. the plaza is venezuelan. if you know anything about me, you know i love few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else, mutant versions of the giant hamburger and this one, this one is something special. >> women: this is the deal. this is all venezuelan, which means everything is protein on protein on protein and it is all about a lot of salsas. okay.
>> anthony: what is this neighborhood? >> women: some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody speaking spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> anthony: most people in miami speak spanish at home. >> women: yeah. >> women: even if they are not latin. you can't get get a job in the place you're in the service industry. you have to speak spanish. >> anthony: meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, potatoes and cheese. it's big. big i tells ya. you got to demolish it in stages, you have to enjoy it in stages. you try and tunnel through the soft parts first.
this is sort of an engineering challenge. >> i'm going to start crying. all right. i'm going in. good god. >> yes or no? >> anthony: it's delicious, but -- >> women: it's a little much, right? >> anthony: there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> women: all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> anthony: this is open until 4:00 a.m. so there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> women: if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of everything that ever ailed you. >> anthony: long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latin america, miami was also an just wanted to get off the grid, own rules.
you'll remember travis, the mystery solving boat bum who lived on a houseboat in miami. the busted flush. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> travis: when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> anthony: bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river. >> travis: we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. but yeah, it's a good life. >> anthony: i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just degenerate wind addicts. this is more of a lifestyle choice for you. >> travis: it is. it's got a machine shop on board.
i kind of wanted to go down to the bahamas and get the boat to earn its own keep. of course the economy tanked, now i'm living on it. [ laughter ] >> anthony: the steel hulled achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to >> anthony: who else lives like you? >> travis: it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> anthony: how long do you think you've got? >> travis: six months, a year? >> travis; that complex that's going up right there, you see the tower crane. we sit there and watch them put the buildings up and they're -- >> anthony: coming closer. >> travis: -- creeping this way. >> anthony: you're not moving onto land anytime soon if you can avoid it? >> travis: no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on. no, i'm talking before that. do you have things you want to do before you retire?
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>> anthony: so you've been here how many years now? >> iggy: 15 years. >> anthony: 15 years. you're a floridian. >> iggy: yeah. >> anthony: when i was young, this man was a role model, an ideal, a roadmap for bad behavior. his music, it turned out, was the soundtrack for most of my life. still is. james osterburg of muskegon, michigan, known still all over the world as iggy pop. >> anthony: you grew up in michigan, you've lived in new york for a long period of time. >> iggy: i went from michigan to london. i went from london to hollywood, hollywood to berlin, which was great. back to london. and new york from '79 to '99. >> anthony: was it a conceivable option at any point, i can live in florida? >> iggy: it wasn't for me.
i was hustling. hustling in a big city. it just kind of happened by chance. i had a shady friend who owned a condo here. and this is a nice little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach any time you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that and it and i thought, that's a -- this is beautiful. ♪ >> anthony: so we're eating healthy today? >> iggy: yeah. >> anthony: what do you like here? >> iggy: i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room that all those years later i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop. barbecue shrimp for the godfather of punk. i get wild and crazy with some roast pork. a little white wine, our only
tilt toward the debauches of previous lives. >> anthony: i well remember the first stooges album coming out, the context of the time. this was, what, '69? >> iggy: '69, august. >> anthony: in a lot of ways as far as looking after my health, your music early on was a negative example. >> iggy: i hear you. >> anthony: and looking at my own life and career, i'm pretty much known for traveling around the world and recklessly drinking and eating to excess. >> iggy: sure. >> anthony: what does it say about us that we're now sitting in a healthy restaurant, i just came from the gym, and we're in florida? >> iggy: listen, if you just flamed out, you're in -- you know, you're in such voluminous and undistinguished company and all your works will flame out quicker with you. ♪ >> anthony: what's the perfect day in miami? >> iggy: it's a clear morning. hot. hot and humid. no moderate or any of that crap. no.
hot, hot, humid. the sun comes up in a hazy tropical orange orb, and you're not working. you're not on a schedule. and you have no meetings, but you have somebody fun to spend the time with. and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right overhead yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water. and the sparkle is very nice. so, positive. ♪ >> anthony: you're the template for the rock star, meaning other rock stars sort of look to you to figure out how should i behave? along with that, look, even at
it's -- even if you're broke, you're a guy at various points in life has pretty much been one way or the other have been able to have a lot of things ordinary people would never have. you've had many, many adventures. >> iggy: i know -- >> anthony: given that, what thrills you? >> iggy: the nicest stuff right now, this is very embarrassing, but it's really -- being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪ i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> anthony: is this the reward phase of your life or is it just dumb -- >> iggy: it's been emotionally i think a reward phase for stuff i did up until the age 30.
stuff you had to do on instinct and not on intelligence. >> anthony: see, i think you deserve it. but when i look at my own life, you know, i'm actually -- i'm ambivalent. i mean, i'm still not so sure. you know? >> iggy: i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> anthony: it's my only virtue. >> iggy: there you go. all right. curious is a good thing to be. it seems to pay some unexpected dividends. ♪ i am a passenger and i ride and ride ♪ ♪ i ride through the city ♪ i see the stars come out of the sky ♪ ♪ so let's ride and ride and ride and ride ♪ >> anthony: i guess that's what it comes down to. all of it. led here. i write a book, i get a tv show, i live my dreams, i meet my
hero. two old men on a beach. ♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ la, la, la, la, la, la, la >> bondi: one of our roles here has always been to take away excess money from people who don't know what to do with it, who can't think of a better idea about how to spend their money. in the old days, the mechanism for doing that was you'd throw it on a table. put that into the context of throwing away a bottle of 7-up at a club, that's only just slightly more honest about it. >> anthony: if you're talking crass commercialism, in the very best sense of the word -- this is it.