tv The Next List CNN December 22, 2013 11:00pm-11:31pm PST
language ]. >> pope francis told the thousands gathered in st. peter's square sunday to do everything possible to "assure that every family has a place to live." his message comes just days after "time" magazine named the pontiff its person of the year. i'm rosa flores. you're watching cnn, the most trusted name in news. >> it's easily the most contentious piece of real estate in the world. and there's no hope, none, of ever talking about it without pissing somebody, if not everybody off. maybe that's why it's taken me so long to come here, a place where even the names of ordinary things are ferociously disputed. where does falafel come from? who makes the best hummus? is it a fence or a wall? by the end of this hour, i'll be seen by many as a terrorist
♪ >> i was raised without religion. one side of the family long ago, catholic -- i think. the other side, jewish. i've never been in a synagogue. i don't believe in a higher power. but that doesn't make me any less jewish, i don't think. these guys sandbagging me at the wailing wall, they don't seem to think so either. >> only half. >> jewish? >> yes. you jewish. not the first time. see. >> you writer? >> i'm a writer, yes. [ speaking hebrew ]
now you bar mitzvah. >> mazel tov. >> mazel tov. thank you, gentlemen. >> i've never felt so much like i'm masquerading like something i'm not. i am instinctively hostile to any kind of devotion. certainty is any enemy. i'm all about doubt, questioning ones self and the nature of reality. when they grabbed hold of me and in a totally nonjudgmental way essentially -- god's happy to have you, here you go. oh, man.
my treachery is complete. just because i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle. i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. first look around, it's like everybody says -- it's pretty. it's awesome. it's urban. sophisticated. hip. like southern california. only nicer. then you see the young draftees in the streets and you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem. >> i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates to the old city. these walls are pretty ancient. people say that the deepest go
back to king david. as history progressed, they built up the wall. so the top bed is the newest. >> and by newest you mean -- >> up to about the ottoman time. the turks left here about 150 years ago. and the brits came and they conquered us. >> i wasn't here. >> born here, now cooking in london, he is the widely known respected chef and co-author of the book "jerusalem." >> basically, this city was divided into two until 1967 when there was the famous six-day war. >> yep. >> and the hall that we're traveling in now, walking in is east jerusalem. it's the palestinian part. that was up until '67 belonged to jordan. so now it's under israeli control. very controversial because for the jews, for the israelis, the city has been unified. but obviously for the palestinian, they're under occupation, as far as they're concerned.
we just have to go for a falafel because it's so much part of the culture here. again, contentious because jews or israelis make falafel their own and everybody in the world thinks falafel is an israeli food. but in actual fact it's been done for generations here. and here, you get falafel that's just been fried. you don't get it any other way. when i go to place like that and i see there's a few left in the bowl from the previous customer, i don't take them. forward i want them to fry them for me. that makes all the difference in the world. >> a whole different animal, isn't it? so is there a historically provable answer to who invented it? >> who made it first. the one thing that's very clear in this part of the world, palestine, lebanon, syria, it's been cooked for many, many, many generations. on the other hand, you get jews from yemen coming here -- >> they say hey, my great uncle was in syria at the time. hey, i remember distinctly --
>> so there is actually no answer to it. but the question of food appropriation or who owns the food is massive here. you can go on arguing about it forever. the old city is divided into four quarters. there is muslim quarter. there is a jewish quarter. there is a christian quarter. and there's an armenian quarter. each one functions independently, but people that live in the certain area are all from that religion. >> right. >> so here you see these israeli flags over this house. so basically jews have bought this house, although it's in the muslim quarter. that's very controversial because it breaks the separation that people would normally expect in this city. now we're walking in the steps of jesus christ, right? >> as i so often do. >> so this is via de la rosa, which is the last trip jesus did before he was crucified. people feel very emotional.
they come here and they feel like oh, my god, i am walking in the steps of muhammad, david, or jesus. >> it's like jesus was here. i feel like i should be more something. >> a little bit more pious? >> a little bit. well, it's too late for me. >> great. get your own crown of thorns? >> yeah. in answer to the question what would jesus wear? oh no, that's just wrong. insuras side-by-side, so you get the same coverage, often for less. that's one smart board -- what else does it do, reverse gravity? [ laughs ] split atoms? [ flo chuckles ] [ whirring ] hey, how's that atom-splitting thing going? oh! a smarter way to shop around -- now that's progressive. call or click today.
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have happened. blood, liver and nervous system problems, serious allergic reactions, and new or worsening heart failure have occurred. before starting humira , your doctor should test you for tb. ask your doctor if you live in or have been to a region where certain fungal infections are common. tell your doctor if you have had tb, hepatitis b, are prone to infections, or have symptoms such as fever, fatigue, cough, or sores. you should not start humira if you have any kind of infection. ask your doctor if humira can work for you. this is humira at work. ♪ how do you explain the feeling of this place? of driving into beautiful. running hard down roads of your own making. and declaring, "i...am...alive." you don't explain it. you just experience it. los cabos. live it to believe it.
construction on a wall along the green line representing the israeli-palestinian border. the wall now stretches 450 miles. when completed, it will span 700 miles. 85% of it in palestinian territory. on one hand, there's no doubt that the number of suicide bombings fell drastically. on the other, there's this. you cross from jerusalem into the west bank. also called judea, sumaria, also called palestine. since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here, all in contravention of international law. many in contravention of israeli law. though in effect, it seems to make little difference. they're here and in ever-larger numbers.
this is one of our drivers from tel aviv who i asked about the graffiti on this house near the settlements. so what is price tagging? >> something happens in a settlement or some attack with jews, kids from the settlement would come and have a price tag for every activity. so they come to a village like this, they will destroy cars, they will write on walls like this. it says against arabs, the state of israel is alive, and death to the arabs. >> intimidating. i mean, you put two targets on my house, i'm moving. this is ellie, a settlement with a population of over 3,000, relatively isolated from the rest of israel. this is the chief executive of the settlement and its former head of security. >> here you see from up above most of our town. you see the palestinian villages all around.
>> it's an unusual situation. a lot of your neighbors would very much like you to not be here. >> i know most of them. and most of them, they are happy that we're here. because we -- actually we gave them prosperity for the first 45 years. wherever the plo came, they lost it. >> i'm guessing a lot of people would disagree with that statement. >> high-tech security. radars and cameras. >> so from the high ground, you can see anybody walking at night. you could see from pretty far out. >> definitely. >> could you identify them after the fact? >> depends. what we have are protocols that we work with. and we had our successes. >> we drive to another settlement a few miles away.
hot, sun-bleached, suburban feeling. behind its ring of electronic surveillance censors and security, everything they feel they need. a school, public transportation, and a petting zoo. he has lived here for 23 years. he's a wine maker and amateur cook. oh, wow. you're not kidding around. >> the salmon is marinated with pomegranate juice that -- on the season, i squeeze pomegranates. i freeze the juice so i'll have it all year round.
>> where were you before here? >> i was born in pennsylvania. >> so your parents brought you over at age 4? >> yeah. >> parents in their 20s with kids living in the relative comfort and familiarity of pennsylvania. heading off to what must have, at least in part of their mind, would seem an uncertain. >> yes. it was very difficult for them. almost all jews say next year, it's part of prayers that we say all the time. >> the bible, it's all right there. it all happened here. that's sort of a nonnegotiable position. >> you see prophesies coming true. things coming to life. mountains that nobody wanted to live on, nobody dared to -- for thousands of years, nobody wanted this place. and then finally, we come here and everything is flourishing again. it makes you feel good, you know? >> you've been here since '90. you look over the edge there, an arab village.
how far away? >> yeah. there is one that you can see from here. >> at any point during that time, you ever go to anybody's house, sit down and eat? >> not there, but in other villages. >> ever sat down at a muslim table? >> muslim table -- >> you host and everybody else -- >> coffee. >> but not there. >> no, because as a religious jew, i eat only kosher. so they respect that. so they don't offer me. >> so i've got to ask you about something that troubled me. coming up, the first house before you come up the drive to this village, the graffiti on the front -- >> yes. >> the targets spray painted on. >> yes. >> whodunit? >> villains. bad people. >> kids? >> i don't know.
apparently kids. when we educate kids, kids are not able to understand complicated things. they see the world in black and white. when you get older, you're able to see the gray. and when someone hits you -- >> i understand why kids would do it. given what you told me earlier, identifying the perpetrators within the realm of possibility? >> they're young people. >> why not paint it over? >> good question. maybe we should. you're right. >> elsewhere in the west bank, just outside of ramallah -- meet betty and mona.
two members of a group of women who call themselves the speed sisters. the first all-female palestinian racing team. >> hi. i'm tony. good to meet you. >> when i'm riding a car, i'm the happiest girl ever. racing, it's in my blood. here in palestine, it's very small. there's no roads. so when i drive, i speed. i feel free. >> do you find that people underestimated you at first? >> at the beginning, they could maybe make fun of us. but when we got good scores -- >> now they know? >> yeah. a car doesn't know if you're a woman or a man.
a lot of girls want to join us as speed sisters. but some of their families are very reserved. they don't like their daughters to be between men racing, you know. palestine is a very reserved society. >> so are things getting better? staying the same, or worse? >> you never know what's going to happen in palestine. one day it's good and the other day it's just -- you never know. it's a crazy country. >> the local police would prefer them off the streets for obvious reasons. but the track here, such as it is, has its drawbacks. it's basically a parking lot across from the detention center. what do they think about this next door? do they ever give you problems? >> this is an israeli jail. one time we were here with speed sisters and there was problems because of the prisoners. so i just stopped my car over there and i was walking. i wanted to see what's going on. and the israeli soldiers, they
came running at me and they start shooting at me. and i got shot in the back. it was tear gas. >> the canister hit you? >> yeah. so my speed sisters, they took me to the hospital. i fainted. >> have you thought of challenging the israelis to put up a team? >> i can't race because my car is palestinian. >> what if they come over here? >> they're not allowed to enter the west bank and we're not allowed to go to jerusalem, so how can we race together? >> silly question. hi honey, did you get the toaster cozy?
it's right there for all to see. and it feels like something out of a science fiction film. this is the wall. from the other side, from inside this place, for instance, the refugee camp in the district of bethlehem, it doesn't feel like anything other than what it is, a prison. abed is the founder of the children's theatre center. >> so we are at the north entrance of bethlehem, heading to the refugee camp.
>> so this has been here since 1950. >> yes. it started with tents. people were under the tents for about seven years. and later on, the u.n. saw that it was not temporary as it was supposed to be. so they started building what they called shelters. >> first impressions of the camp, there's a remarkable number of kids. >> now it's about 6,000 people. and 2/3 are under 18 years old. so it's a very young population. unfortunately, with the continuing degradation of the political and economic situation, we are in the situation where we have no playgrounds or green spaces any more. >> children play in the streets beneath walls covered in images of martyrs, plane hijackers, political prisoners. 6,000 people, of that number, 66% are under the age of 18.
i don't care where that is in the world, that's pretty much a recipe for unruly behavior, i think would be the best. >> well, yes. especially when you don't have any possibilities to evacuate the anger and the stress in a creative way. so after i finished my studies, i came back here and i started using theatre as one of the most amazing, powerful, civilized and nonviolent means to express yourself. to tell your story. to be truthful. and this is for me the remedy to build peace within. and hopefully help them to think that they can grow up and change the world and create miracles. without need to carry a gun and shoot everybody else and explode themselves or burn themselves, but to stay alive. >> abed takes me to the martyrs quarter to be fed. she runs a women's collective offering palestinian cooking classes, helping her provide for six children, one of whom is
disabled. in america, kids grow up with pop stars, sports players. never a politician. it's unthinkable for a child to look up to a politician or to look up to a military figure. sports or entertainment. here, kids 4 or 5 years old every day, they're looking at somebody who, you know, brought down a plane. >> yeah. >> i'm not questioning why that is. >> i know. >> do you think it's helpful? >> well, i guess we have a history. we are people who are under occupation. people on earth are heroes. and their heroes are those who resist the occupation. whether they are armed struggle or nonarmed struggle. and to tell you the truth, sometimes i have been in fight with some political parties when
they put images of people who are killed in their own houses. ahmed's sister, the 29th of october, 2001, she was killed in her kitchen by a sniper. but when these political parties take this woman and want to make a montage of photos with her carrying a gun to say this is the hero who liberated the palestine. sorry. this is not the truth. this woman was killed in her house. we will go today and ask the palestinians who is the great evil? you ask these kids, who will they recognize? they recognize a man from gaza, who is an arab idol named muhammad assa, a singer who sings. he becomes more famous than arafat and everybody else. this is another image of these palestine.
♪ >> you can almost believe for a minute or two that some kind of peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity is possible after you visit majda. it's a restaurant in what looks like an idyllic village in the judean hills. about 20 minutes from jerusalem. it feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons. one of these women is jewish. one is muslim, from a nearby village. they're partners, co-owners of majda, and also married. they're unsurprisingly friends of yotan. together they grow and raise much of what's used in their kitchen.