tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN April 17, 2016 6:00pm-7:01pm PDT
when i take my country back, first order of business is to take that -- down. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ in july 2013, when i went to
south africa, 95-year-old nelson mandela was critically ill. and the country he freed from white minority rule was already in mourning. and already fearful of what the future might be without him. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> i pray that he -- somebody takes the baton from him. >> i wish him a speedy recovery. and come back to his people. ♪ ♪
>> so a good friend of mine, a really great travel writer, said something. the more i travel, the less i know. i feel that particularly strongly here in south africa, a place i came in a state of near total ignorance, loaded with preconceptions. for the first part of my life, the south africa i knew was not a happy place or a good place. it was a pariah state. surrealistically, outrageously divided into black and white. a throwback to attitudes we thought we'd long learned to reject. ♪ >> the nationalist government in south africa enacted apartheid laws in 1948. who you could marry. where you lived. where you could walk, be educated, everything decided by racist laws backed by police, army and secret services.
the institutionalized racial discrimination was designed to maintain white minority power and economically suppress the black and mixed race south africans who lived in townships, mostly in poverty. ♪ in 1923, the african national congress was formed. by 1961, it had been radicalized by the influence of a young nelson mandela, among others, and formed an armed wing called the spear of the nation. >> do you see africans being able to develop in this country without the europeans being pushed out? >> we have made it very clear in our policy that south africa is a country of many races. there is room for all the various races. >> in 1963, mandela was charged with sabotage and conspiracy and sentenced to life imprisonment on robben island. it would take another 27 years
of violence and injustice before the inevitable would happen. >> do you believe in apartheid? >> i believe, according to god's will, that the white race should be preserved. >> with south africa's white minority under international sanctions, internal political pressure and the decline of the communist threat, mandela was released from prison in 1990. in '94, he was elected president of the new, free south africa. ♪ there have been very few figures in the entire history of the world as revered or as important as nelson mandela. but the question is, what happens next? ♪ >> johannesburg or joburg or
jozi. the largest city by population in south africa, and the economic powerhouse of the country. southwest of johannesburg, soweto. originally an acronym for southwestern townships. now the area is considered a suburb. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> in 2010, south africa played host to the world cup. the black jacks who played for the opening celebration are a soweto-based band. they are also, not surprisingly, soccer fans. ♪
>> we're here on game day. a grudge match in a country where soccer approaches religion. you can feel it in soweto or rather you can see it as everywhere you look, people show their love for the local orlando pirates or for the johannesburg kaiser chiefs. mawilies inn. a typical local joint in soweto. the perfect place to talk about a game, drink yourself silly over the results of a game, or just have a very fine local style meal. it is, however, a little hard to find. there are a lot of places like this? i mean, this used to be the garage or the carport, right? >> yeah. definitely. >> in what was once a garage are now six tables. a lawn turned lounge out back.
closed on sundays if grandma's visiting. these kinds of bars were born during apartheid times when black south africans not allowed to own businesses in white areas adapted and improvised. they did their own thing. created these little micro, under the official radar restaurants known around here as eat houses. >> back in the days, obviously, it was illegal. >> right. >> during apartheid. so they will have meetings to actually plan what they're going to do. >> right. so this would be considered a hotbed of sedition. >> exactly. >> now it's just a hot bed of drinking. >> yeah. different kind of sedition. >> the black jacks have just finished watching the game when i join them for food. are these good times in south africa? bad times? transitional times? >> oh, yes. 1994 was the peak of the good time in south africa. then now with the other politics and other parties fighting, it's quite tense right now. >> it's not like it was before where everybody's -- you know,
it's black and white. literally. we're unified on this. they're unified on that. >> these days, the party that freed the country from white rule, the anc, is not universally loved anymore. in recent years, they've been criticized for inaction, corruption and cronyism. and opposition parties are gaining strength. >> now it's more nuanced and i think that's, maybe, new to us. i think we're trying to navigate the nuanced reality. how do you deal with so many opinions? the party that you loved the whole time, that brought about this freedom, is fumbling the ball. so what do you do?
because in democracy, you should act. >> smileys. >> oh. >> smileys. fire roasted sheep's head. lips shrivelled back in a joker like rictus of deliciousness. chopped into tasty, tasty bits and eaten with cold beer? yes, of course, yes. just needs a little salt and pepper. >> good stuff. that looks good. >> it's pap. >> what is it? >> it's like maize. >> a sticky porridge made from ground cornmeal. it fills the role grits do in the american southwest. rice in much of asia. it's tasty, relatively nutritious and cheap filler. it sops up gravy when you have something like this stewed beef real good. >> that's a dumpling. >> that's a dumpling? >> dumplings. important throughout the africa diaspora. made with flour and yeast. a spongy, bread type tool for moppin' up sauce. stewed greens, carrots, beans
and more gravy. that's awesome. tell me about your band. how long have you guys been together? >> about ten years now. >> whoa. a long time. >> yeah. >> would you say you were an indie band? is there an indie theme? what i guess i'm getting at, is there a -- i was kind of getting there. >> is there south african williamsburg? ♪ >> in terms of south african street culture, people are really pushing the boundaries now. we didn't really have a scene when we started. you look around. it's like, man, like demographic is crazy. >> what do you mean by that? >> it's not just racial, but classes, you know?
>> people are being pushed and pulled. ♪ >> it's like an aspirational culture. ♪ >> what do you think that means? >> the whole rainbow nation notion was quite romantic and ridiculous. you know, like racism is not on a piece of paper. just because we voted it out doesn't mean people stop being racist. it's ridiculous in that sense. but we've lived something else for 20 years. people want it. it's no longer like a coffee table idea. ♪ o. hey, excuse me, do you know where the waterfall is? waterfall? no, me tarzan, king of jungle. why don't you want to just ask somebody? if you're a couple, you fight over directions. it's what you do. if you want to save fifteen percent or more on car insurance,
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of change, we all ran to the central part of the city. >> with the end of apartheid and emergence of mandela not just as an inspirational figure but a real idea. , south africa became a beacon and refuge for millions of africans from all over the continent. black south africans fought hard for their freedom and their country. as i understand, a lot of them are pretty pissed off about we're just getting our -- together and all these congolese and nigerians are coming here. >> sanza has no formal culinary training. he's completely self-taught. picking up bits and pieces where he can. often from the women in the neighborhood. >> you're plucking the best of everybody in the culture. >> every day. every day i learn.
the smell, the colors they brought. what are you eating? where are you from? i've been taught by some men. that's not how it's cooked at home, you know? go to that auntie. to the back of some dingy cab. there's a small kitchen. look, there, it'll be nice. she'll teach you something and then that is me. hey, auntie, you know, i'm really keen on how you're making your particular sauce. >> they'll show you? >> she will show me stuff and i pick up. then i rush back to the shop and i try it out. i have all of the elements now. >> at his cook shop, he mixes recipes, ingredients, techniques and traditions as he sees fit. one reviewer described his style as gastronomic smuggling, moving people across borders with dishes that slyly partake of elsewhere. on today's menu -- >> i made this for you. this is egusi and beef. traditional nigerian dish. >> beef stewed with melon and
pumpkin seeds. there's futu. ubiquitous cornmeal porridge. made from a texture more crumbly than pap. >> this is basmati rice and rose water. and pickled. and this has cassava in it. >> right. good taste. oh, yeah. awesome. good food here. menu change every day? >> that's the idea. >> you do a lot of great food in a small space. there are no seats. his customers remain part of the constantly unfolding street theater of yeoville. they mingle, talk, observe. >> lot's of people, lot's of story pass through here. lots of culture interaction. >> with food, i knew food is a way to engage. got to put something in your mouth to get your ears open, you know.
♪ >> across town, another pioneer of sorts. an urban settler in a very different neighborhood. this is hillbrow. a notoriously dangerous district. and this is deejay lez. >> when i came here, i always dreamed of being a musician. i see myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot. sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> that's the fried chicken. >> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped on a plate with beets and coleslaw that's a nice, heavy base. >> tell me about the neighborhood.
>> when i first came, it was rough, my friend. >> before '92, it was like white business district? residential district? >> back then, it used to be cool. it used to be clean. it used to be respected. ♪ >> once, hillbrow was an elite whites only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow. becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational. a symbol of everything black africans had long been denied, but was now accessible. people poured in in large numbers. many of them squatters from all over the continent. >> people come here, they come here with one intention. making a living. making money. started coming here. >> white landlords and tenants simply walked away from their property. the disenfranchised who moved in legally, semi legally, illegally
or just squatting, an influx of gangs and criminal organizations, the area soon slipped into anarchy. >> there's a saying around here. okay? this building's been hijacked. >> entire buildings were seized to being superstores for elicit drug operation. everything that could go wrong, did. >> people make a living from different things. some people rob people to make a living. some they sell their bodies. sometimes things aren't always according to what you plan. this is where i live. this is where my life is. here, we'll go down here, i'll show you. >> we walk down the street and one of the many enterprises doing business on corners and in doorways around us becomes alarmed at the sight of our cameras. soon, there's a mob of very angry people coming our way. we do not turn around our cameras for obvious reasons.
these days, things are slowly, slowly improving. >> but before, we wouldn't walk this freely. now we are free. >> there's actual law enforcement going on in fits and starts. and that's making a difference. black owned legitimate businesses have gained a real foothold. there are new revitalization projects like farmer's markets springing up. buildings are being reclaimed. and people here hope that hillbrow is past the bad old days. >> there's no fear now. you have to relax. nothing will happen to you. ♪ ♪
if the name is soweto, you best believe it means plenty. this is madu. for over a decade, he's been in what has, at times, been the very difficult business of driving a taxi. you should probably know that the word taxi in soweto means something a little different than, say, new york. >> how many taxis do you have in johannesburg? >> this coming from a particular passenger means soweto. also this and this. johannesburg has an elaborate system of hand signals indicating desired routes of travel. >> you're looking at the hand signals and say i'm not going
there, i'm not going there? >> i'm looking at hand signals. >> in 1994, soweto came into being as less benign version as a housing project. it was designed as a worker's lodging, a place to put black laborers comfortably removed from the white society. a ghetto. by the 1950s, it had become the center of resistance to white rule. synonymous with the struggle against the whole rotten racist system. >> i remember a day. the situation was such a bad way that my mother had to but me in a box where we put shoes and hide me there under the bed. this is where i grew up. and sometimes you would get bullet. one time guys were following me and they lifted me up and i probably hat a few coins in my pocket and they turned me up side down and shake me. i will never forget that moment in my life.
i felt so stupid. you know. >> now there is a definite cache to living in soweto, a very real pride of having been at the center of things back when it was hard and dangerous to have an opinion. nelson mandela lived here. desmond tutu. when you're of certain age and you say you were born and bred in soweto, it means something. do mostly people own their homes or do they rent? >> mostly people own their homes. >> things start to get a little money, things start to get better. can you build up? >> you can build up. >> look at the streets here and you see what that kind of pride does. it may not be a rich area, but it's immaculate. squared away. an emerging middle class coming
up, rather than fleeing to elsewhere. >> you have a nice day. >> you too. >> bye. >> these ladies over here you can see they marketing for their stalls. >> you know where you're going, right? >> yeah, i know where i'm going. >> next exit? smoky delicious meat over flame. under the overpass, all sorts of mystery meats for sale. the taxi man's lunch. we order some brisket, some sausage, some heart. beautiful thing. meat, a cutting board, a knife. >> cut all the meat in pieces.
>> every steak house has monkey gland sauce. it's barbecue sauce. >> they cook it up along with some pap and fries and presto. a colon clogging pile of meat in the ruins of empire. >> yeah. i mean, meat is a very big thing. there's enough of it, i think. >> good lord. i bet i could swim in it. tastes like oppression. after this show airs, i'm going to get a huge amount of mail saying why didn't you go to capetown? great modern restaurants. cutting edge chefs. is it all right i missed all that? >> i feel like those particular restaurants in capetown are not really representative of what most people in this country are eating. i think a lot of our most basic stuff is really what we do best. this food has absolutely got no interest in fashion. it's never going to change. there'll still be the monkey gland sauce. >> you think the white chefs here understand the greatest advantage they have is that this enormous pan african larder of ingredients and flavors? >> no. if you're a whitey in the city, you're probably going to eat the worst food of anyone in the city, quite honestly. in every country, i mean, obviously food is political.
it always feels like it's a bit more political here. that there are these layers of things that you couldn't have. like restaurants. i go to restaurants. i think to myself, wow, this many years ago, i couldn't have come here with this person. they were not allowed to sit in here. and i remember very clearly being around 8. the cafe owner would regularly not pay the customer who was black with change. he would pay him with bubble gum. and the guy somehow, he couldn't argue. if you were a black guy, you got your change in bubble gum. and you're standing there, 8 years old, feeling like, oh, my god, it was so terrible. but you couldn't say anything because that would have been worse. it was this weird thing of sweeties. it was so innocent and it represented such badness. it just seems mad. ♪
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the largest antelope in the world. it is also, unluckily for him, delicious. [ gunshots ] >> got him. [ gunshots ] >> got him. >> i think that was very good. >> it's a little sad. >> is it sad. but you know what? that is such good meat. that's really what we do. >> though this one weighs in around a ton, rest assured, every bite, every scrap, will be eaten. some of that, tonight at dinner. chef andrea burgener, deon, a local hunting expert, and myself join prospera bailey on his game farm. prospero's dad was the legendary
publisher of the slyly subversive magazine. a black oriented investigative magazine slickly disguised as glossy pop culture. prospero's farm is mere 20 miles from johannesburg. >> you see the city there? >> yeah. to have all this in sight of the city. near his farm and hidden within the city's shadow is what's known as the cradle of humankind. a unesco world heritage site. an incredible look back at where we, the human animal, came from. >> it's a classic little sink hole. >> there are loads of these. this is what this area is. the cradle. it's called a cradle. now a world heritage site. because 60% of all the evidence
for human evolution comes out of the valley. it's from caves like this that keep the record. that geology just conspires to preserve fossils. they're very, very rare things, hominid fossils, but they're found more here in the last ten years than they're found anywhere. so you're home. this is where you started. >> this is my ancestral homeland? >> this is your ancestral homeland. ♪ >> that sound makes me happy. what does that sound remind you of, guys? what does that evoke for you, that sound? primeval. you know? happy childhood? meat sizzling over the fire? parental love? your enemy's genitals frying in hot oil? nothing? no. fire and fresh-killed eland. i get to work on the heart. something i strongly suspect will be delicious.
and i'm right. andrea works her magic on the liver. dredged in flour and sauteed. this loin seared and glazed with booze. there's eland paprikash. a riff on the hungarian stew with paprika, peppers, onion, tomatoes and cream. as the sun sets over the belt, johannesburg lights blinking in the distance, a feast. meat on the plate. blood on my pants. life is good. i've been very, very, very confused by my visit here. you've got basically a ghoulash here. italian inflected liver thing gone on here. the bread someone referred to as portuguese? >> yep. >> portuguese but it's from madera. that bread. flat bread. >> south africa, depending on who i talk to, is a completely different construct. to some people it is whoever comes to south africa from
somewhere else in africa and brings good [ muted ] along with them. other people malaysia, east indies, dutch, english influence. >> there were so many different colonialists. >> what at this table is originally african, and does that even have any mining? >> this wood is pine. >> i arrived in this country spectacularly ignorant. i will leave spectacularly ignorant. ramadan. at this hour, all over johannesburg, members of south africa's sizable muslim community observe. the economy is growing, with creative new business incentives, the lowest taxes in decades, and new infrastructure for a new generation attracting the talent and companies of tomorrow. like in rochester, with world-class botox.
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during apartheid, many south africans would have been referred to as colored. colored didn't mean black. it meant everybody else who wasn't exactly white, asians and mixed race. >> it's garlic, ginger and chiles. >> in the observatory neighborhood of johannesburg, the rasdian family prepares for the meal at sundown when fasting for ramadan is broken. >> some curry powder. >> joey is a standup comedian and actor of cape malay background. this dish, panang curry with beef and eggs. joey's wife, cindy, prepares a chicken pie. son, hakeem, makes the traditional ramadan shake. daughter, laya. >> i can cook. ♪ >> everything smells terrific. >> that's soup. >> it's nicer to have soup after you've not eaten the whole day.
it's light and nourishing and filling and all of those good things. >> there's also cheese and beef samosas. these are delicious. you were born here. born in johannesburg? >> yes, i was. i'm a johannesburg guy. >> so how are things? >> it depends on what you are speaking about. >> basically, things work. society operates the way society should. but on the other hand, in many ways, this is a new country. >> it is. it's 19 years old. >> everybody is from someplace else. >> i think the africans from the other countries see south africa as a place of hope. because if there's a lot here, then there are a lot of opportunities, lots of people might get from here. you don't find 3 million germans coming here. africans would come from far to find a little bit of something here. >> so how do you find south africa so far? >> i like it.
i'm very comfortable here. i like a country where people have a sense of humor. there's a lot of ball busting going on in this country. >> all the time. from the top to the bottom. >> twenty years from now, what is south africa going to be like? >> their generation, the born frees now, that's the ones that's giving our current president lots of hell. the ones born in the new democracy. >> right. >> or just before the first election. >> right. >> the born frees are like, look here, we went to school. this is right and this is wrong. what you're doing is wrong. but we're at a struggle. >> yeah. >> yeah. we are part of a struggle. i don't care. thank you for the struggle. >> now i want five bars on my 3g, i want wi-fi, and it better be high speed. >> absolute. >> and why can't i have it? >> and why can't i have? >> i don't think the current politicians foresaw that. foresaw the born frees not supporting them. >> there's a critical mass of
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♪ >> anthony: no more hipster jokes. it's low-hanging fruit, and one can no longer argue against the steady creep of their foodie sensibilities. artisanal cheeses? yes, right over there. handmade charcuterie? yes, there. thin-crust pizza, a very respectable paella. yes, yes, and yes. it's official. they're here and they aren't going anywhere. i like the idea of a burger for breakfast. there's something a little perverse about that. throw in a crowd of much more racially diverse hungry people and you might think you're in brooklyn. surely, this is not a bad thing. this is neighbourgood's market in the braamfontein precinct of johannesburg. my dining companion, "city press" arts and features
writer percy mabandu, says we should hold out for this -- the balkan burger. >> cook: next! >> anthony: one with cheese for me. >> percy: one with cheese, lots of cheese. >> anthony: hell yeah, flattened ground beef seared over flame. >> percy: yeah. don't cook me. cook the food, all right? >> anthony: add kashkaval and mozzarella cheese, fold it up, pick your condiments. you got cabbage, tomato, onion, lettuce, of course, and hot peppers. up to the roof with a view, and eat. woo! spicy, good. i guess i wanna talk about nelson mandela, because what i was not aware of at all was the degree to which he was personally responsible for really the nuts and bolts of the transition from white rule to majority rule. >> percy: oh right. >> anthony: now he's very ill. >> percy: ill, yeah. >> anthony: what happens after mandela do you think? >> percy: we go on. i think the foundation is laid. and i think thank god we have him as a symbol. i think mandela represents our collective better intentions as
a nation. >> anthony: all the things that could have gone terribly wrong, it's a remarkable thing how well it -- it went. >> percy: between 1990 and 1994, tough times, you know, intense fighting, black-on-black violence, black-on-white violence. are we going to descend into a black path? but we transcended that through that message of coming together regardless of the unresolved issues. >> anthony: to what extent is it really a rainbow nation? are things getting mixed? we like to think we live in a rainbow nation, but in fact, in the states, black and white live in to a great extent in different neighborhoods. it's only 19 years. in some ways it looks to me outside looking in, a little more gracefully mixed up than we've managed to pull off successfully in the states. >> percy: here, i mean, you've
got black, white, colored, you know, all sorts of people here. but i think, in all fairness also one should have knowledge that the economic disparities are managing to keep us divided as well. i think what we need to do is unpack what we mean by rainbow. i think the idea of united in our diversity also mean that, you know, and there are moments of discord. >> anthony: and do you think things will continue to improve? >> percy: yeah, i think we've seen our worst. and that's not to say that we're getting it right all the time, but it's an experiment with democracy. it's an experiment you need to fine-tune as you go along. that's really the south african story. the dream is there, we all agree. the divisions are there, but these are not bigger than our hopes. >> anthony: what did i know about south africa before i came here? exactly nothing as it turns out. but i think based on what i've seen is that if the world can get it right here, a country with a past like south africa's,