tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN December 30, 2016 11:00pm-12:01am PST
you hear the name ethiopia and you think "starving children with distended bellies." you think dust and famine and despair so awful, you frankly don't want to even think about it anymore. but take a look. addis ababa, capital city of ethiopia. a cool, high altitude, urban center that will both confirm and confound expectations. fueled largely by direct foreign investment and a returning ethiopian diaspora eager to be part of the new growth, things are changing in addis. it's one of the fastest growing economies in the world. it's not the first time the place has gone through a growth spurt. in the 1950s, emperor haile selassie, known as "the king of kings," embarked on a similar program of massive
public works. this was supposed to be the legacy of ethiopia. the future. but the next time ethiopia found itself in the headlines, it was for this. and for many of us, that was the end of the story. so i'm looking forward to this week. >> marcus: i can't wait to show you ethiopia. >> anthony: i've been waiting for you. i mean, i'll tell you right now -- >> marcus: you couldn't have picked a better time because we have old ethiopia right here, and we also have new ethiopia right here, and, that's like, that combo -- it's gonna be so cool. >> anthony: marcus samuelsson. maybe you know him from such shows as -- a lot of them. or his many restaurants, his best-selling memoir, his status as america's most recognizable black chef. but marcus isn't african-american. he's swedish-american or ethiopian-swedish-american or, look, it's complicated. what is true to say is that
marcus samuelsson, like his wife maya, was born here in ethiopia. >> anthony: so, when was the last time you were, uh, you were in ethiopia? >> marcus: four years ago. and -- you can tell it's changed. it changed a lot. >> anthony: i'm interested in seeing an african country that was never, uh, colonized. it was never taken by europe. >> marcus: no, that sense of pride, and you really hit the nail on the head, i mean, that sense of pride is also the sense of that everyone wants to come back. >> anthony: how does it feel coming back? is it weird at all? you feel like you're coming home? >> marcus: it is weird, but, at the end of the day i always love it. i miss it. one foot of me is like just ethiopian, but then the other foot is just so swedish or american at this point, right? >> anthony: you do not speak the language here, amharic, or any of the dialects. >> marcus: no. >> anthony: you've since come back and you've reconnected with family. >> marcus: yeah. >> anthony: but it must be weird to, i mean -- >> marcus: it is. >> anthony: to -- to need a translator.
>> marcus: no, but do you -- i need a translator, my wife is now my translator in life and in culture, and so many things. but i think when -- when you're a black man, when you're an immigrant, when you're ethiopian, when you're swedish, i've been put in so many situations that i put myself into. so, i'm actually very comfortable in the -- being uncomfortable. >> anthony: in the 1970s, ethiopia was hit with a tuberculosis epidemic. marcus, his older sister fantaye, and his mom were all stricken with the disease. with no possibility of medical attention in their village, facing the almost inevitable death of both her children, marcus's mom set out on foot with her daughter at her side and 2-year-old marcus on her back. walking 75 miles to the swedish hospital in addis.
against all odds, they made it. marcus and fantaye recovered. their mother did not. ♪ marcus and his sister were adopted by anne marie and lennart samuelsson and raised from that point on in sweden. ethiopia, its language, its food, its cultures, was largely a mystery. marcus traveled and trained, apprenticing in some of the great kitchens of europe. he moved to new york, and at the remarkably young age of 23, received three stars from the "new york times" at his groundbreaking restaurant aquavit. it's been a pretty stellar rise since then and, in 2010, he opened red rooster in harlem. >> marcus: i always find it so paradox that i was born into very little food, but yet, sort
of, i've made my whole life about food. my sort of structure and pragmatism comes from being raised in sweden. and my sort of vibrancy and warmth to cooking and feel-based food that i love comes definitely from here. >> anthony: weirdly enough, the single aspect of ethiopian culture most westerners do know a little about is ethiopian food. so, maybe you've had this. oh, wow. now -- now that -- that looks good. that, that is exciting. what is it? >> maya: this is typical ethiopian vegetarian. they make it really nice. >> anthony: at kategna restaurant, they do it classic. injera bread. that's ethiopian 101. >> marcus: i mean, when you think about ethiopian food, right, the foundation is really the injera bread. >> anthony: it's not just food, it's an implement. >> marcus: yeah. >> anthony: we're having beyaynetu, a selection of stews, or wats, as they're called around here. that's gomen, sauteed greens. shiro wat, which is a chickpea
stew. and tikil gomen, sauteed white cabbage. many, if not most of the dishes, spiced with the magical mysterious flavoring of the gods, berbere. >> maya: can i, can i give you one that's -- normally, they do it, they say gursha. >> marcus: you have to. >> anthony: this, this stuffing of food into your fellow diner's face, is called gursha, and it's what you do to show your affection and respect. try this at the waffle house sometime and prepare for awkwardness. now, when -- you were born here? >> maya: i was born here, yeah. >> anthony: left, what age? >> maya: 13. i grew up in holland, and after that we all went to london, germany and i'm in new york now so. >> anthony: i don't want to say it's a rootless existence. but, but it's a -- you know, where's home? >> marcus: i think for us now,
if -- harlem is really home. but when i've been gone for two years, i'm like, "i gotta go back," because the beat is just so different than what sweden can offer me, and definitely what new york can offer me. >> anthony: the median age in ethiopia is under 18. that means most people here don't remember live aid or any of that. ♪ coupled with a recent economic boom, this might be the first generation in decades to enjoy a future with real hope. things are indeed happening. in this case, at a vacant bus stop. ♪ >> marcus: they're dogtown, man. they are next generation of dogtown in africa, man. >> anthony: a few years back, a couple of ethiopians who had been living abroad returned to addis with some skateboards. today there are a couple hundred skaters in ethiopia and more on
the sidelines waiting for their chance, waiting for a board, waiting for a pair of sneakers. it's funny though, 'cause, like, "skater boy" culture came from white southern california suburban -- and you can pretty much track all of skater culture back to like one parking lot. >> marcus: yeah. >> anthony: so what's coming out of this parking lot? there are no skateboard shops in ethiopia. none. they have to come, all of them, from abroad. >> marcus: woo! nice! holy -- >> anthony: little kid's good. >> marcus: little kid is amazing. >> anthony: for those lucky enough to have them, progression seems to be fast. >> marcus: this gives me hope. honestly, that's -- this could be a really cool town. not just a great town with big buildings, you know, but a cool town too.
>> anthony: for skater boys and television hosts alike, the thing to in late night addis is something called turbo and tibs. >> marcus: i feel like at a college party or something like that. it's perfect. >> anthony: turbo is a mutant concoction consisting of gin, beer, wine, and sprite. >> anthony: what's the first rule of drinking? don't mix! abenezer temesgen, addesu hailemichael, and bouzayou julien founded ethiopia skate, the grassroots skating community that grew up in the parking lots around addis. sean stromsoe is a founding member who's been documenting the group. >> anthony: all right, man. my first -- my first turbo. cheers. >> all: cheers. >> sean: it's like apple juice. >> anthony: you're right. >> marcus: it's sweet, but the gin is good. >> anthony: it is like apple juice. shekla tibs are chunks of beef
or lamb fried in oil and served in a charcoal-heated clay pot called a shekla. >> marcus: nice! i like the fat part, i love that. they don't -- they don't hide the fat. >> anthony: every tibs house has their own version, but here at mesay grocery, it's served with a spicy dipping sauce called mitmita, and, of course, injera bread. yeah, that's good. that works. ah, that's, uh -- >> abenezer: gursha? >> anthony: ah, there you go. how did this skating community form? i mean, do people watch what other people are doing around the world? >> addesu: definitely. >> abenezer: some of them, they go to the internet cafe, and they just see videos. that's how i started. >> addesu: back in the day, no internet for me. >> marcus: oh, wow. >> addesu: i had to do it like the hard way, man. >> anthony: i will tell you right now, if i were in ethiopia, you know, if i even lived here, i would open a [ bleep ] skate shop -- >> marcus: tomorrow. >> anthony: tomorrow.
so what's the best thing about ethiopia right now? >> abenezer: i think back in the days, people wanted to get out from this country, just leave. but now, they're like, they just want to work, and their mind has changed. and everybody's working together. and working for the better. we're doing this for the next generation, because the next generation is going to take this. >> anthony: did we drink all that turbo? >> marcus: i know. >> anthony: we're terrible people, man. we're going to hell. >> marcus: yeah. didn't get quite what you wanted. that's why verizon has the best deals of the year on the best network. like a free smartphone when you add a line or switch. no trade-in required. choose from the samsung galaxy j3, the lg k8 or stylo, or the the motoz play. all free. and as if you needed another reason, switch to verizon now and get up to $650 to cover your costs. there's still time to get exactly what you want at verizon.
♪ if you've got the time welcome to the high life. ♪ we've got the beer ♪ miller beer afoot and light-hearted i take to the open road. healthy, free, the world before me, the long brown path before me leading wherever i choose. the east and the west are mine. the north and the south are mine. all seems beautiful to me.
>> anthony: so, time to catch a buzz? >> maya: you guys need to be my bodyguard. >> anthony: no problem. oh, this place is awesome. institution called a tej bet. they serve one thing, and only one thing -- tej, an alcoholic beverage made from fermented barley and honey. it's not highly alcoholic though, right? you gotta pretty much hammer
back a lot of this stuff to get a buzz. >> marcus: yeah. >> anthony: so basically the people around here who've got a load on, they've been working on this for a long time. >> marcus: all day. this is a working class. this is where the workers go. >> anthony: it's a cheap buzz. >> marcus: it's a cheap buzz. cheers. and you just knock it back. >> anthony: all right. >> marcus: it's good, man. you feel the funk? >> anthony: oh yeah. >> marcus: in the end, right? >> anthony: yeah, it's working, man. >> marcus: i've never seen a woman in a bar like this. >> maya: it's forbidden. >> anthony: this is sort of a guy thing? >> maya: it's my first time. yeah, guys after work or the farmers. >> marcus: we're breaking major rules here. >> maya: and you have all, like, the saints picture there, and we're drinking. >> marcus: there's a lot of jesus in the bars. >> anthony: that's the last thing i want to see in a bar. the disapproving gaze of a saint. >> anthony: in 1992, addis
emerged from the stifling 17-year grip of a hard-line old-school maoist regime called the derg. since then, the town has been enjoying something of a musical renaissance. but the story of ethiopian music all the way back to the beginning has been about finding ways to skirt authority, to mock it, even. to say what you want to say one way or the other. ♪ the azmari are ethiopia's original freestyle rappers. they've been around for centuries, voicing criticism, dissatisfaction, disse, en when others could not. >> anthony: so, how old? >> marcus: maya, how old is azmari, i would say, what, 2,000 years? >> maya: yeah, it's like the
>> marcus: this is when i sit down. this is when i sit down. i sit down. >> anthony: oh, no, no, no. >> marcus: maya, you gotta help him out. this is where you go. >> anthony: it's all you, not me. >> marcus: maya, go. go, go. you see the disadvantages of being adopted. she can move and i'm like, "ah!" that's when the swede showed up. ♪ >> anthony: the azmari influenced ethiopian popular music too. the use of lyrical double meanings carried through into selassie's time. ♪ they called it swinging addis, a golden time between 1955 and 1974. before those fun-hating commies came and ruined everything.
post world war ii, ethiopia was in the delirious thrall of american big band and swing groups like glenn miller, and against the backdrop of a traditional and official obsession with military marching bands you had the means and the will and the environment to make musical magic. and this man, mahmoud ahmed, has always been at the forefront. ♪ [ singing in amharic ] >> anthony: when you looked to the west, were there american musicians who spoke to you? >> mahmoud: [ speaking amharic ]
>> anthony: what are we here to buy, by the way? what's the plan? >> marcus: i want to make doro wat. really the king of the chicken dishes in ethiopia. all right, so we're going to head down here, get some good butter. you smell the fermentation? the funk? >> anthony: funk. >> anthony: kibbeh, an ethiopian butter in various stages of fermentation depending on what you like. it is a primary ingredient in much of the cooking. >> maya: so there is between, one is really fermented and another one is a medium, so she says we should use the medium one for chicken stew. and you use all the spices. but it is the most important thing. >> anthony: people from gurage, maya's tribal area, run the market so she knows the language and how to negotiate.
i can smell a frightened chicken. >> marcus: yeah. >> anthony: a mile off. here we go. how many do we need? >> marcus: i just think we need three is fine. >> anthony: my mama done told me, "get something for dinner." in this case, chicken. fresh, please. see ya, wouldn't wanna be ya. oh, that's fresh. >> marcus: i love all the sounds, like it's live chicken there, music there. >> maya: how did he get the skin off? >> marcus: he just, one move he did it. what? >> maya: we used to use like hot boiled water. >> marcus: yeah. >> maya: after killing it, you -- >> anthony: right, dip him in. >> maya: dip it there, and that's how i grew up. ♪
>> anthony: morocco has ras el hanout, india, garam masala. ethiopia has this. the brightly colored berbere. the color is amazing, and those guys who grind the stuff are covered with it, breathe it all day long. >> maya: feel this, it's so warm. >> anthony: still warm. wow. that's sort of magic, man. ♪ marcus left ethiopia at age two, so finding and reconnecting with his family has not been easy. tracking down a mom who died in
similar circumstances on the right dates, following a thread to a dusty village in the oromo region, where marcus found the man he has come to accept as his biological father. he also found tigist, selam, zebenay, ashu, and daniel, presumably, his siblings by another mother. together, marcus and his sisters make doro wat, a classic chicken stew. >> marcus: you talk about old feeling. i need this to be -- go back to new york and be the chef that i have to be. i really need this. welcome to a tsige family meal. tsige family meal. so we start with the injera bread, right? >> maya: yes. >> anthony: besides the doro wat, we have cabbage, beets, and collards, root vegetables finished with the livers and jiblets of the chicken.
>> marcus: actually, it looks spicier than it is. >> anthony: good. very good. though a continuing bone of contention with his father, marcus and maya have sponsored the girls, moving them all to the city and getting them into school. in the countryside, these girls faced a likelihood of forced marriage, even abduction, and very little chance of the kind of future they might have now. so how did that go over with the family when you said, "i'm going to try to help here." >> marcus: i mean, my dad was like, "absolutely not. we need them on the farm." >> anthony: right. >> marcus: it couldn't have been done without maya that really not only translates, but also understands the culture. >> anthony: mm-hmm. >> marcus: because i felt also bad coming in as the "american" saying, "okay, everyone should move to the city." it had to be gradually, two, by two, by two. >> anthony: right. >> marcus: so, when i had to pick which two, i picked the girls because otherwise they should have been out of school by second grade if she were to
follow the tradition of the country. >> anthony: second grade. >> marcus: mm-hmm. >> anthony: that's it. >> marcus: mm-hmm. >> anthony: what after that? >> marcus: you stay -- you work at home. it's been very enriching and loving, you know, for us and, uh, we have a purpose, you know, we know what our goal is. our goal is to get them through school. you're looking at a chemist in a couple of months. whatever new ethiopia you see, they're it. farmers coming in and going to school and now have options. the world is full of surprising moments. they're everywhere.
marcus and maya come from two completely different tribes, two completely different regions of ethiopia with distinct languages and cultures all their own. maya comes from the gurage region, a more fertile, green, agricultural area than marcus's. it's about three hours out from the city, and it's beautiful. maya, it should be noted, left home at a much later age. there's no question of identity. she's african. she's gurage. and she retains close ties to her family and to her village. >> maya: tony! welcome to gurage. >> anthony: thank you. she was here just last year. it's been four years since they've seen marcus.
maya's mother bezunesh and de facto grandmother owl welcome us. when visitors come, everything starts with coffee. traditionally, it's served here with a bit of salt, not sugar. thank you -- that's good. maya's story differs from marcus' in a lot of ways. it was not disease or famine or poverty that drove her and her brother petros to europe and a new life. it was the brutal reality of politics.
so, who is your father? >> maya: my dad was my hero and everyone's hero in this -- i mean everyone, but my brother could explain a little bit more. >> petros: he was a local chief and also a member of the supreme, or the highest court, you can say. during the haile selassie period he was engaged in more innovative and experimental and mechanized farm. with, during the communist -- >> anthony: yes. >> petros: period. you know, something unexpected happened. >> anthony: in 1974 emperor haile selassie was deposed and the very unpleasant general mengistu and a hard-lying communist regime called the derg took over the country. as in mao's china, all agricultural property was taken over by the state and broken up into small parcels. >> petros: everything what my father had, the land, the
property, is confiscated. and those who had the authority, they had the chance to work together, to cooperate, or they were enemies. >> anthony: right. anyone deemed an enemy of the state, and this could be a very dangerously loose definition, but usually and typically included the educated, the well-off and anyone associated with the former government were hunted down, shunned, jailed, harassed and often straight out killed. maya's dad was all those things, an educated landowner and part of the rural tribal administration from the selassie time. most people who had the means left the country. >> petros: i know this guy who is appointed, you know, as a governor of the region, killed 60 people in the region. in three year's time. >> maya: nobody knows when he's coming. >> anthony: right. >> maya: so he could, he'd just
knock our door and my mom, she gets it every time he comes. he gave her bullets. he tells her, "this bullet next time is yours if don't bring your husband." so my dad always came to visit us in nighttime, so he never been really home or around during the daytime. >> anthony: so for most of that time your father had to live in hiding. >> maya: yeah. >> petros: yeah, and then we all survived by the grace of god, and we are blessed for this.
maya and marcus' return, not to mention the invasion of a big foreign television crew, is reason, or maybe excuse, for a big party, and preparations have already begun. maya slips seamlessly from her other life as a high fashion model back into a more traditional role in village life, working along with an army of other women to prepare what looks like a massive feast. how do they, uh, how do the ladies feel about you cooking, man? >> marcus: ah, this is, you see -- >> anthony: this is causing, uh, serious problems -- >> marcus: no, you already crossed it because you are the first foreigner ever in that kitchen.
>> anthony: a lamb, of course, must be slaughtered. actually, in this case, two lambs because here, as in much of ethiopia, muslims and christians live side-by-side. one lamb gets the halal treatment, one for the christians. it's a peculiar history of peaceful coexistence here, of which ethiopians are quite proud. the christians came here during the time of the apostles, from the very beginnings of christianity as a religion. and the belief is that mohammad, after being persecuted and driven from mecca by the quraysh, fled to ethiopia where he found refuge.
>> marcus: dog is happy. >> anthony: oh yeah. >> marcus: nice and bloody in his face. >> anthony: oh yeah. that's awesome. the production continues. women in the kitchen, except for marcus, who looks most comfortable there, though his presence is a befuddlement to the others. men taking care of the meat. oh, bro food traditions, you're everywhere. >> marcus: you know, none of the people that cook here today, like, consider themselves cooks. all of them like -- >> anthony: well, like, in rural communities when you kill a big, you know, a couple of animals, right, everybody in the village has, sort of, a chosen specialty. like, "joe bob over there, he does the cracklins." "somebody over there does the boudin."
"somebody else over there is, like, good at scraping the fur off." somebody else -- but, everybody's got a function. you know? it's, it goes right back to the first fire. i mean, "i'll bring the dip." you know? >> maya: normally, you hold it like this, and then you have, you put everything you want in here. >> marcus: okay, cool. >> anthony: got it. >> maya: so you guys could take some and then we're going to take it around. >> anthony: perfect. gomen and ayib are greens, like collards, with a big hit of berbere and ayib cheese. mmm. i like the cheese. it's like a ricotta. >> marcus: that's right. >> anthony: lamb kiftu, prepared gurage style. laboriously diced. amazing. >> maya: this is all, like, innards. >> anthony: yeah, i got some of that, that's good. that's delicious. >> marcus: yeah. >> anthony: this i love without reservation. barbecue, now we're talking. man, what a meal. pretty impressive. ♪
then, whiskey. and music. and the party really starts going. >> marcus: thank you for coming to ethiopia. ♪ ♪ t time of year again. when you realize you still didn't get quite what you wanted. that's why verizon has the best deals of the year on the best network. like a free smartphone when you add a line or switch. no trade-in required. choose from the samsung galaxy j3, the lg k8 or stylo, or the the motoz play. all free.
and as if you needed another reason, switch to verizon now and get up to $650 to cover your costs. there's still time to get exactly what you want at verizon. ♪ he has a sharp wit. a winning smile. and no chance of getting an athletic scholarship. and that is why you invest. the best returns aren't just measured in dollars. td ameritrade. ♪ two, please. (man) it was his turn to buy the next round. it just happened to be during... (crowd cheers) ...a huge pick six. a play so big, years from now it will be known as simply "the pick." it's a shame, but it's also a badge of honor
all true fans must endure. so sprint proudly, my friend, because we get you. and like you, courtyard is all about the game. ♪ same nose. same toughness. and since he's had moderate alzheimer's disease, the same never quit attitude. that's why i asked his doctor about once-a-day namzaric. (avo) namzaric is approved for moderate to severe alzheimer's disease in patients who are taking donepezil. it may improve cognition and overall function, and may slow the worsening of symptoms for a while. namzaric does not change the underlying disease progression. don't take if allergic to memantine, donepezil, piperidine or any of the ingredients in namzaric. tell the doctor about any conditions including heart, lung, bladder, kidney or liver problems, seizures, stomach ulcers, or procedures with anesthesia. serious side effects may occur, including muscle problems if given anesthesia; slow heartbeat, fainting, more stomach acid which may lead to ulcers and bleeding; nausea, vomiting, difficulty urinating, seizures, and worsening of lung problems. most common side effects are headache, diarrhea, dizziness
loss of appetite, and bruising. (man) dad and i shared a lot of moments. now we're making the most of each one. (avo) ask about namzaric today. put some manwich on the table... and give boring weeknight meals, the night off. ♪make tonight a manwich night you ready? by their second kid, every mom is an expert, and more likely to choose luvs than first time moms. live, learn, & get luvs.
he was told that his father was still alive, living here, in the village of aberagodana southeast of addis. for adoptees looking to return, to reconnect, the journey is complicated. for marcus, each trip has always raised more questions than it's answered. this trip is no different. >> marcus: every time, that last five-minute drive, right? it just makes me nervous. makes me really, really excited and nervous at the same time, right? but it's just, take the american hat off, take the swedish hat off, it's just a different grid. >> anthony: this ain't a 110th street. >> marcus: it is not. i come from a dusty place. >> anthony: you're not kidding. ♪
>> marcus: oh, they changed it. >> maya: they changed it, they made it big. >> marcus: yes. >> anthony: i leave marcus alone with his father. this is between them. >> marcus: yes. >> tsegay: aberagodana. >> marcus: aberagodana? i like it. i like aberagodana. >> maya: he wants us to see your foot actually. he wanted to see how you guys look alike. >> marcus: i wasn't ready for this. >> maya: they look alike. >> marcus: yeah. proof! proof. >> maya: good idea.
but, he has a better foot than you do. >> marcus: he does. he does. i wasn't ready for this. ♪ >> anthony: so, how does it feel to be back? >> marcus: it feels -- >> anthony: you seem, i gotta tell you. if i could be honest, you seem conflicted. >> marcus: yeah. there's 1,000 thoughts going through my head. i always feel a little guilty that i got out. >> anthony: if you'd stayed, what do you think you'd be doing right now? >> marcus: i would have been a farmer or dealt with some type of cattle. >> anthony: i'm pretty sure you would have been a shit farmer, though, marcus. i really do, i just, i can't see it. okay? you'd be the best-dressed god damned farmer, that's for sure. where's home for you, man?
where do you think, ya know, looking back on it all -- >> marcus: yeah. that's an eternal question for me, you know? i feel at home in new york. i feel very much at home when i'm in africa, but i also feel out of place. and coming to this very place, aberagodana, it gives me a lot of humility, but i can't say it's home. i can't say it's home. ♪ >> anthony: happiest moment in africa? >> marcus: happiest moment is, i think, when we're at maya's village, for me, the whole village comes together, music, food, culture brings everybody together. that eating together, being together, it's by far the happiest for me. happiest for me. ♪
-- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ >> anthony: some places surprise you. even if you've been traveling nearly non-stop for 15 years like me, there are places that snap you out of your comfortable world view, take your assumptions and your prejudices, and turn them upside down. they lead you to believe that maybe there is hope in the world. senegal is one of those places. ♪ i took a walk through this