tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN June 23, 2018 8:00pm-9:01pm PDT
♪ [ fireworks ] >> anthony: this is the story of one man, one chef, and a city. also, it's about france, and a lot of other chefs, and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. it's about a family tree, about the trunk from which many branches grew. and it's about food, lots of food. great food, some of the greatest food on earth. ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪
♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ >> anthony: what is it exactly about this place? over the past century, the system here, the tradition, whatever it is that took hold here, churned out a tremendous number of the world's most important chefs -- point, chapel, troisgros, bocuse.
and as importantly, influenced nearly all the rest of them. why lyon? why is this such a gastronomic capital though. i mean, why bocuse here, why troisgros here, why all of these great chefs? >> daniel: because lyon is -- it's really positioned between the north and the south. you are locked in between burgundy and rome. >> anthony: lyon, it's the second largest city in france, situated in the southeast of the country, midway between the alps in the east and the mediterranean to the south. >> daniel: this was also a bottleneck when cars began their mode of transportation. >> anthony: it goes right to the heart of the idea of the michelin. driving -- the destination on the way to the -- >> daniel: completely. >> anthony: out of that system came chefs like this guy, daniel boulud. like prince or madonna, he needs only really one name. in new york, or anywhere in the chef world -- daniel. the name of his three-star eponymous restaurant in
manhattan, one of many, in an empire that stretches from london to singapore. he came from here, a farm outside the city of lyon, through the city's great kitchens, to le cirque in new york, then his flagship. so when did you start working with food? >> daniel: 14 years old. 1969. >> anthony: uh-huh. >> daniel: i started as an apprentice in lyon. >> anthony: he started as so many french cooks of his time did -- at the very bottom. as a 14-year-old apprentice in the restaurant nandron. what was your first job in the kitchen? >> daniel: they used to call me "the beaver" because i was just washing everything all day. you know, they make you clean the vegetables, they make you carry all the boxes from the market. >> anthony: 14, you can't do that anymore, can you? >> daniel: i don't think they can make him work 12 hours a day. >> anthony: right. >> daniel: and uh, pay him maybe a buck a month. you know what i mean? >> anthony: ah, the good ol' days. >> daniel: yeah, well. >> anthony: why lyon? why here? look at the fundamentals, the
things the lyonnais think of as birthrights. the right for instance to eat delicious cured pork in unimaginably delicious forms. >> daniel: the art of charcuterie, lyonnais can't live without it. >> anthony: look at this. terrine, pate, sausages, rillette, it's an art that's revered here and widely enjoyed. >> daniel: monsieur reynon. >> reynon: bonjour. >> daniel: merci. tony. >> anthony: bonjour, monsieur. tony. >> chef: tony. >> anthony: and few names garner more respect from aficionados of pig than reynon. [ reynon speaking french ] >> daniel: 20 -- 20 ton of saucisson just inside this room. the holiday are coming, and they're going mad with the production of saucisson. >> anthony: in a relentlessly cold room, pork shoulder, belly, and fatback are fed in batches through a vertical chopper. a sprinkling of seasoning and spices. >> chef: oui. >> anthony: removed in large
balls of finely, but not too finely, chopped meat. you do not want to get your hand caught in one of these things. then mixed to a smooth perfection with a dough hook. >> daniel: madhouse. >> anthony: lot of work. spread out and layered for consistent seasoning, formed into shapes, and smacked to remove air bubbles. >> daniel: make sure the meat gets really tight. >> anthony: into the sausage machine and piped into organic casings. trust me, it ain't easy. >> daniel: no, no, no, tony. very light touch. >> anthony: let's see there, wise guy, come on. let's see this. that's how you get pregnant.
>> daniel: it's all in the meat. just release at the end. >> anthony: it's a serious work place, but with production nearly done, this being france and all, it's time for a snack and some wine. i'm doing what i'm good at -- eating. >> reynon: this is the saucisson a cuire. >> anthony: this is so good. [ reynon speaking french ] >> anthony: sabodet, another of lyon's most famous sausages, is made primarily from pig's head, with pork belly, pork shoulder, brandy, nutmeg, and allspice mixed in for flavor. it's always cooked, served hot? >> daniel: yeah. >> anthony: man, that's good. >> daniel: that's what we're gonna eat with my father. >> anthony: oh yeah? >> daniel: i'm gonna get some here of the skin. [ reynon speaking french ] >> anthony: he knows he does really good work. >> daniel: uh-huh. >> anthony: he knows how good his stuff is, you know. cheers. oh nice, uh -- it's a beautiful day in lyon.
>> daniel: yeah. >> anthony: in lyon, a city that believes absolutely in the power of food, one name is everywhere. a name that brought honor, attention, and millions of visitors to the city. though there have been many chef heroes in the annals of gastronomy, in lyon, and even across france, one name stands above all others. murals, bridges, markets, casual brasseries, the name of monsieur paul is everywhere. but one of his most enduring institutions is this -- l'institut bocuse. one of the nation's great culinary schools. [ chef speaking french ] >> anthony: now, just to give you an idea of the standards here, the kind of traditional dishes baseline old-school fundamentals you're expected to
master before you move on in becoming a creative genius all your own -- meet these guys. [ chefs speaking french ] >> anthony: mathieu viannay, joseph viola, and the institute's top dog, alain le cossec. chefs and m.o.f.s all. otherwise known as mofs. pretty much pay your flight home, private. master chefs. >> daniel: every four years they have this m.o.f. competition. >> anthony: m.o.f. is? >> daniel: meilleur ouvrier de france. >> anthony: the master craftsman of france. >> daniel: there's about 30 discipline of craftsmen, where you can acquire the m.o.f. >> anthony: see that red, white, and blue around their necks? that means they made it through the brutally, unreasonably rigorous competition that pits hundreds of top chefs against each other, where only a handful survive. >> daniel: so there's basically four or five every four years. >> anthony: certified by the highest in the land as being at
the very top of the top of their professions. mof challenges often include ultra old-school classics, not unlike the one we're making today. poularde en vessie. thick slices of black truffle are slipped under the skin of a chicken from bresse, the rolls royce of chickens. it's then tied, slipped inside a pig's bladder, and steamed in court bouillon until tender. >> daniel: the idea is to concentrate the flavor of truffle inside the bladder. the dish they choose, it's already in reference to a chef of the past. this was a dish la mere brazier was doing. >> anthony: the at-times brutal world of the michelin star kitchen looks much of the time like a boy's club, but where did they come from? if we track back a bit to where it all began for lyon and for many of the chefs whose names we
now know and look up to, it all goes back to here. la mere brazier, the godmother, the original master. teacher, chef, force. two restaurants with three michelin stars. an achievement, no one, male or female, had ever attained, and for many years, lyon's most famous chef. her influence runs right through every kitchen that's come since, and her graduates carry on her recipes and her traditions. this was one of hers, a signature. >> daniel: for the next hour, you keep putting hot bouillon like this. the most miserable thing is when the bladder explode. >> anthony: it's never a good thing when a bladder explodes. >> daniel: as the chicken cook, the bladder start to really expand. you have to talk to your bladder. >> anthony: i do all the time, believe me. please hold up, please hold up. not here. people are looking. wait till you get in between
cars. a rather luxurious sauce of more, much more, black truffle and generous amounts of foie gras and triple cream. [ blender whirring ] perfect. nice milkshake. slightly pink around the legs but cooked through. the flesh perfumed by the generous slices of truffle. who gets to eat like this? we do. >> daniel: how is it, tony? >> anthony: it is divine. >> daniel: see the perfect balance in the sauce? if i was a chicken, that's the way i would like to end up. >> anthony: even if i weren't a chicken i would want to go like this. die surrounded by truffles and foie gras and fine wine. [ anthony and chefs speaking french ] purina one. natural ingredients, plus vitamins and minerals
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♪ [ thunder ] >> anthony: the roaring of a powerful engine, the screech of rubber, and off we go. kings of the road in our citroen de chevaux. two-horsepower classic. no power steering, huh? it's like a toy car. we're going back in time a bit, to the area where daniel grew up. where life was very different from new york. were you the misfit of the family? rebellious or -- ? >> daniel: i was -- i was quite rebellious. my parents were talking to me about the idea of taking over the farm. as the oldest son, that would have been the logical thing. >> anthony: right. but the farmer's life was not for you. >> daniel: no. >> anthony: he grew up in a true farm family. you milked the cows, tended the animals.
daniel claims he never even saw processed food until he was a teenager. >> daniel: what happened? >> anthony: uh-oh. [ engine dies ] [ horn honking ] [ man in truck speaking french ] >> daniel: throw it in the garbage, your car. [ laughter ] >> anthony: a brief respite by the side of the road and some passers-by are apparently less appreciative of fine automobiles than we are. a short consultation with an automotive professional, and we're back on the road. back, in this case, to school. this was daniel's old elementary school in the nearby town of saint-pierre-de-chandieu. [ bell rings ] i'm automatically taken back to memories of my own school days. the smell of caustic pine
cleaner, chalkboards, and fear. the cruel administrations of tiny-eyed lunch ladies slopping can-loads of prison chow into steam tables. chipped beef, tuna noodle surprise, and powdered mashed potatoes that haunt my sense memory still. >> daniel: pumpkin soup today. with, uh, onion, nutmeg, and chicken stock. but basic, good pumpkin soup. >> anthony: this is marie -- head chef, cook, host, and server for 320 hungry and very discriminating french school children ages 3 to 12. on the menu prix fixe today, a pumpkin soup, a fresh blanquette de poisson with white wine, vanilla, and shallot. served with homemade couscous, and a sauce supreme. and this is a very sophisticated meal for -- for children. >> daniel: that's a nice meal. >> anthony: i was a little shit
in school, frankly. and like a lot of the other students, we were like, "and i want pizza, pizza, pizza." are the children here -- >> daniel: les enfants. >> anthony: -- open to variety? [ marie speaking french ] >> daniel: she wants to make sure that they always get a little challenged by how the food looks and the smell and also the taste after. i think she has a very strict budget. >> anthony: in the usa, greatest country in the world, no doubt, we spend an average of $2.75 per student for public school lunch. compare and contrast. [ marie speaking french ] >> daniel: a dollar fifty. >> anthony: did you eat this well when you were here? >> daniel: absolutely. >> anthony: je m'appelle tony. bonjour. bonjour. >> daniel: bonjour, daniel, ça vas? >> anthony: the kids attack their food like hungry trenchermen, wiping out three servings in the time it takes me to eat one. i guess they like it. it's good. >> daniel: delicious. >> anthony: yeah, this is good. >> daniel: i tell you, i don't think my chef in new york would do better. >> anthony: i love that they cooked with wine too.
you're going to jail for that in the states. >> daniel: exactly, in making the sauce. >> anthony: crap, these kids eat fast. look at how fast this kid eats. turn your head, they'll eat your soup right out of your plate. my school lunchroom, you pushed up your tray, just like in prison, bob, "move it along." bop, "move it along." >> daniel: yeah, here they come -- they come to you and serve you. most important thing that we see here is the love marie gives to the food she makes and to the kids she serves. i think it has a lot to do with the reaction they have to food. >> anthony: dessert is homemade fromage blanc -- farmer cheese, with chocolate and orange segments. >> daniel: what do you want to be when you grow up? veterinarian. [ boy speaking french ] >> daniel: fireman. [ daniel speaking french ] [ boy speaking french ] >> daniel: engineering machine gun. >> anthony: he wants to make machine guns? >> daniel: engineer -- engineering machine gun, yeah. >> anthony: okay, keep an eye on that one. all right. for a dope fiend, "feeding the monkey" means finding and sticking with heroin.
for one poor guy, it's this. french food. in particular, lyonnais food. the cautionary tale of bill buford. writer, editor, literary lion with a perfectly good job as fiction editor at the prestigious "new yorker" magazine. at undignified age of 53, he pretty much pulled up stakes, put his whole past life on hold, and defected to france to learn how to cook. what happened to you anyway, buford? you used to have a good job, you hang out a couple of nights with batali and the next thing you know you're living in france and cooking. >> bill: it's true. i discovered a whole world that the rest of the world didn't seem to know about. just a very compressed, intense lifelong learned expertise and knowledge of food. it's not the food network, and it's not glossy magazines, and it's not something you'd get from reading a recipe book. it's something you get by just going deep. i was afraid of france because i
knew if i went, took on the subject of french food, i'd have to go really deep. so we went, and we thought we'd stay for six months. and we -- we stayed for five years. >> anthony: we meet at bouchon comptoir abel. a bouchon is a uniquely lyonnais institution. a casual laid-back kind of pub/bistro with a limited, usually old-school menu and always, always an unpretentious vibe. people come here to unwind, to relax, and to eat with abandon. so you say outright, recently, in one of your published works that lyon is better than paris. >> bill: lyon is a dark, tragic, beautiful, well-eating city. and everybody here knows that they have a really good life, and they don't give a flying fig if anybody else knows about it. 'cause they don't actually want visitors. >> anthony: if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent the
bouchon lyonnais, it would have to be the quenelles de brochet. a not particularly fabulous river fish -- pike -- folded into a light dough, like pate a choux, until fluffy and airy but still rich. adrift in a rich, creamy, almost bisque-like nantua sauce made with crayfish, crème fraiche, white wine, and a splash of brandy. pretty amazing for really one of the world's less wonderful fish. >> bill: it's kind of a nice mix of france and italy. >> daniel: cheers. >> anthony: cheers, guys. >> bill: cheers, gentlemen. >> anthony: good to see you. >> bill: what a treat to meet together in lyon.
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>> anthony: if you're really going to understand a place, love it the way it deserves to be loved, maybe you have to live there. bill buford did just that and made lyon his home. today he's taking me somewhere only someone from the home team could be expected to know about. >> bill: it's a beautiful day. the sky is blue, we're feeling the seasons changing. and we're about to go in a dark room, and you eat a very lyonnais menu and you drink a vast quantity of lyonnais wine. >> anthony: and what sinister bodies will be in there? >> bill: the only kind of people who would do this kind of thing on a bright pretty day. it's a very male tradition. you work hard, you drink harder. [ singing ] [ greetings ] >> man: don't be afraid. >> anthony: don't be afraid. the mysterious, fabulous, goofy, wonderful bro-fest called
franc machon. these are basically eating and drinking societies that go back over a century, when the silk workers of lyon would finish their nightshifts early in the morning. hungry and looking to get, shall we say, completely hammered, they take over a bouchon, stuff their faces like heroes, blow off the proverbial steam in decidedly french fashion. which is to say no freaking "guy-talion" nachos or mozzarella sticks for these boys. hell no. how often do you do this? >> frenchman: eight times a year. >> bill: it's a very lyonnais thing. societies -- some secret, all of them sort of like special memberships. there must be like 50 of these things that i know about. you're a member if you're invited to be a member. and remain a member for the rest of your life. >> anthony: the food is invariably, deliciously dinosauric. and heavy, yet always glorious classics like blanquette de veau, the slow, slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal, with mushrooms, served over rice. hunks of bread, and wine -- local beaujolais, of course, and
lots of it. sante. >> all: sante. >> man in stripes: no woman. no politics. no religion. >> frenchman: and it works. and for 50 years. >> frenchman: yes! >> anthony: do women have machon, their own organizations? >> frenchman: yes. >> anthony: there are. so somewhere in the other side of town, there are a lot of women sitting around, drinking wine, eating blanquette, and bitching about the men. [ singing in french ] >> anthony: and then there will be, yes, singing. and no doubt the telling of lusty jokes followed by serious official business. [ all singing in french ]
[ all singing in french ] >> anthony: alongside, and some say, above the names of the other culinary giants in and around lyon, is the name troisgros. started by the visionary brothers jean and pierre, maison troisgros received three michelin stars in 1968 and sparked a dynasty of culinary excellence that continues today with pierre's son michel, and his son cesar. >> daniel: my dream was to always to put maison troisgros on my resume. it's my first day, chef troisgros. >> michel: tony, bonjour. >> anthony: bonjour. >> michel: comment allez-vous?
>> anthony: tres bien. many have called maison troisgros the best restaurant in the world. and in the '60s, the brothers pierre and jean were early, important and fundamental innovators of what came to be known as nouvelle cuisine. behold one of their breakout classics, one of the truly game-changing, timeless, most influential dishes in history. it seems now, maybe, a simple thing, but it absolutely turned the world upside down when it debuted on the troisgros menu in 1962. i mean, when you have a dish this legendary, this iconic, there's no escaping it. the rolling stones will always have to play "jumping jack flash." if you google "troisgros", you'll see this. >> michel: so, forget everything you have on google and watch me now. okay? >> anthony: before this, fish was generally overcooked. it was served alongside elaborate garnishes, starches, vegetables.
this simple, elegant, almost japanese ode to flavor changed the way we cook fish in restaurants today, and how we make sauces, what our plates look like. i remember seeing a picture of this as a young man. i'm getting goose bumps seeing this. perfect. >> michel: that's that. >> daniel: beautiful. >> cesar: it's all about the timing. the moment you put the fish on the pan. the moment you put the sorrel in the sauce. it's very important. >> michel: okay. >> anthony: wow. all right. >> michel: then, from now to you to the dining room, it will take about one minute. >> anthony: right. >> michel: so one minute is the time to have it perfect. >> anthony: because it's cooking all the way.
mm. perfect. >> michel: that's it. >> anthony: it's a perfect dish. >> daniel: sinful and delicious. >> anthony: it's really one of the great ideas of the 20th century. >> michel: it's sexual. >> daniel: sensual. >> michel: sexy. [ laughter ] ♪ how do you like me now ♪ now that i'm on my way ♪ do you still think i'm crazy standing here today ♪
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>> anthony: when in lyon, one can't help but see a line from there, from the rustic dishes of the farm and the bouchon, to here, the classics of the great tables of europe. all roads lead here. a major trunk of the tree that goes back to careme and beyond. monsieur paul bocuse. ♪ the brigade. the way it is done and has always been done since escoffier instituted a military-style hierarchy into the kitchen. where the only acceptable response to any question or any command is "oui, chef." this is the special forces, the sas of cooking.
and these cooks live to avoid under any circumstances disappointing their comrades, the hierarchy, or monsieur paul. daniel worked here and so have many, many who have gone on to run their own celebrated kitchens. [ daniel speaking french ] >> anthony: in the '70s as a young wannabe cook, i managed to lay hands on a french copy of paul bocuse's classic cookbook, "la cuisine du marche." and i gaped with wonder at the photos, struggled to translate the descriptions of dishes so fantastic i was quite sure i'd never, ever in my life cook, much less eat. if you could please say how honored and grateful i am to be here. this is a dream come true. [ daniel speaking french ] [ paul speaking french ] >> anthony: over the years, how many great chefs have come through this restaurant and gone on to open great restaurants?
>> paul: beaucoup. [ speaking french ] >> daniel: he always have a child somewhere around the world because everybody goes around the world. >> anthony: but bocuse, too, is and was a part of the system. he came up with his own cruel and terrifying masters. and their faces are here. [ daniel speaking french ] >> anthony: fernand point, the towering and intimidating figure behind la pyramid. out of his kitchens came such figures as alain chapel, michel guerard, francois bise, roger verge, georges perrier, the brothers troisgros, and many more. >> daniel: this was all the gang of the nouvelle cuisine up there. in the '60s in new york and paul
and michel guerard. >> anthony: every great chef i've ever met has nightmares of they're still a young man, they're back in a kitchen, and a chef is yelling at them. who of his masters? >> paul: la mere brazier. >> daniel: la mere brazier. the woman. >> anthony: really? la mere brazier. in the year 1946, at the ripe old age of 20, monsieur paul worked as apprentice for brazier. >> daniel: she was such a screamer, they say, you will fall on your ass she was screaming so hard. [ paul speaking french ] >> daniel: she was the first up in the morning. [ paul speaking french ] >> daniel: and the last one to go to bed. she would go to the market with three cook in the back of the truck, and she will put the case of green beans or something, and the cook will be sitting down making the beans not to waste time for the rest of the mise en place. >> anthony: truly a terrifying figure. truffle soup elysee.
i can't tell you how many hours i stared at photos of this dish, how pathetically i've tried to replicate it. never ever did i get to think i'd try it, much less like this. loup en croute feuillete avec sauce choron. sea bass with a tomato béarnaise sauce baked in a meticulously crafted mille-feuille crust. >> daniel: this is a great moment. [ paul speaking french ] >> daniel: yeah. you only have three camera? or -- >> anthony: the fish is filled with a delicate lobster mousse, chervil and tarragon, then wrapped carefully in pastry. notice please the careful and expert tableside carving and service. [ paul speaking french ] >> daniel: he has been making the same thing for 50 years. paul has an amazing respect for classic. >> anthony: a pot-au-feu, the peasant classic. >> daniel: tony, get closer. >> anthony: you are totally
sending me every one of those pictures by the way. wow, look at that. this style of dish goes back long before cameras. but it's perfect. is there a more perfect assortment of colors and textures? in this one, a somewhat more luxurious version. beef shanks, flank steak, oxtail, veal shanks, chicken, marrowbones, beef ribs, leeks, carrots, turnips, fennel, and parsnips. all stewed long and at low temperature, then served with its own deeply rich broth. >> daniel: you think it's enough for the two of us? >> anthony: and then, this. >> waiter: monsieur, lievre a la royale. >> anthony: as if the chef had been listening to my deepest, darkest secret yearnings. the legendary lievre a la royale -- an almost completely disappeared, incredibly difficult preparation of wild hare. the animal is first slowly cooked, then coated by a sauce of its own minced heart, liver,
and lungs that has been thickened with its own blood. after more than six hours of preparation, the hare is served, as the chef prefers -- whole, on the bone, the rich glorious sauce finished with truffles and chartreuse napped over and over until it coats like richest chocolate. absolutely the lost ark of the covenant of cuisine ancienne. everything great about cooking is encapsulated in this dish. >> daniel: we'll continue all over the world to make cuisine of paul, many generation to come. >> anthony: forever. i will never eat like this again in my life. chef, merci. [ paul speaking french ] >> anthony: the meal of my life. today i was treated to the greatest hits of a glorious and fabled career. for the first and probably the last time, i sat next to the great man himself, and daniel and i were served a menu that chefs will look back on in a hundred years and smile at appreciatively, sentimentally,
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been less than well, 9:00 a.m. on the nose, there he is, sitting on top of his beloved john deere, with his faithful dog festan, ready to go. >> daniel: nice, fresh morning now. >> anthony: yeah, i was thinking the smell is beautiful. that's -- that dog is happy. the great chef loves this place, and you can see why. monsieur paul can't safely hunt, but he's happy to charge around flushing birds for us. [ gunshots ] >> daniel: beautiful. >> anthony: yeah. it is beautiful. i could do this all day. [ gunshots ] that was about as good as we're going to get, too. >> daniel: you got bullets?
[ anthony chuckles ] >> anthony: if you look long enough, you start hallucinating. you start hallucinating ducks where there aren't any. [ gunshots ] >> daniel: you see that one falling? >> anthony: okay, not a moment to waste, quickly a second shot. [ gunshot ] okay. [ whistles for dog ] >> daniel: you got it? >> anthony: yeah. [ speaking french to dog ] >> anthony: between me and daniel and festan the dog, we manage to actually bag a few ducks. >> daniel: good job. very good. >> anthony: easy shot. then it's back to the lodge, clearly bocuse's happy place, where we meet up with some hunting buddies of the great chef. >> daniel: you did a good job,
no? >> anthony: success. >> daniel: yeah. it's fantastic. >> anthony: is this the hunting lodge, the weekend getaway, hang out with the guys? >> daniel: that's where he comes every day. almost. [ daniel speaking french ] [ paul speaking french ] >> daniel: yeah, a little bit less. [ man speaking french ] >> daniel: look at the picture behind. you see? > anthony: for tonight's meal, we pluck and roast some woodcocks over an open fire. cook up some well-aged duck and pheasant. >> daniel: they made this at the auberge paul bocuse. it's a mashed potato here. >> anthony: is it predominately butter, or predominately potato? do you have a head in there
somewhere? >> daniel: yes, of course, yeah, yeah. no, no. >> anthony: that's perfect happiness right there. oh, yeah. my father used to say, uh -- he used to say, "i am a man of simple needs," and i noticed that the chef here -- a nice fire, some birds. >> daniel: we can spend the whole week with paul, and we'll be hunting, we'll be cooking, we'll be eating, drinking, and talking, and that's beautiful. [ paul speaking french ] [ daniel speaking french ] >> anthony: life is good. it is, for me, a dream to spend this time with a legend. but i'm thrilled that bocuse too seems genuinely delighted. >> daniel: the duck you shot was a beaujois. you see it is the one behind you on the top there. [ paul speaking french ]
>> anthony: in lyon, all across france, he's monsieur paul. he's the great chef, a public figure, a hero, an institution, always treated with the greatest deference. here it appears he's free to enjoy the simple things with friends, local farmers, who talk to him like anybody else. it's a pretty damn magical thing to see. behr presents: 2 stains, 4 seasons. ordinary stains say they can do the job, but behr premium stain can weather any weather. behr premium semi-transparent stain and sealer, overall #1 rated, weathers it all. find our most advanced formula exclusively at the home depot.
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♪ [ man singing in french ] >> anthony: daniel may be a three-star michelin chef, but like so many of his predecessors, he's basically a farm boy at heart. he grew up milking cows and doing farm work here, on his family's spread. there is, it turns out, something of a restaurant tradition to build on. the house on his farm was once a small café as well, operated first by his grandparents and great-grandparents. the famous café boulud, it turns out, was not the first place to bear that name. >> daniel: they kept it about 80 years, 100 years, and then they closed it.
[ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> daniel's dad: no, no, no, no, no. >> anthony: meeting daniel's dad, one begins to understand the roots of his perfectionism. [ daniel's dad speaking french ] [ daniel's sister speaking french ] >> anthony: his mom, dad, wife catherine, and daniel collaborate. [ daniel's mom speaking french ] [ daniel speaking french ] >> anthony: with some debate. [ daniel speaking french ] [ daniel's mom speaking french ] >> anthony: on a super old-school farmhouse classic. the sort of thing that good times, bad times, a family could make with stuff that's always readily available on the farm. check this out. it's a hollowed-out pumpkin, layered with toasted hunks of stale, country bread, which monsieur boulud senior bakes himself. nutmeg, grated gruyere cheese, mushrooms, fresh cream from the cows, and the meat of the pumpkin.
>> daniel: and a layer of bacon also, homemade pancetta. very good. oh man, it's heavy. [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> daniel: we made it. >> anthony: is he concerned that the pumpkin's going to try to get out? daniel's dad could be something of a gaulic macgyver. you don't waste stuff around here and he's a bit of an inventor anyway. >> daniel: how much would you pay for a machine like this? >> anthony: look at this. an old washing machine turned still. what the hell is that? >> daniel: so underneath, we have the -- but to seal it so there is no air coming in, he has cement on top. it's not distilled yet, it's just fermented. >> anthony: leftover grape solids from the winemaking process, usually used to make liquor like grappa, today, a different use.
if we can get it out of here. >> daniel: why did you put so much cement on it? [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> daniel: he says funky. mm, super. >> anthony: we'll be using this delightfully funky stuff to flavor the steam that cooks the vegetables and the sabodet sausages from monsieur reynon inside the still. >> daniel: then we come back in, uh, an hour. >> anthony: at dusk, we settle for dinner. look at that. >> daniel: there is the pumpkin. >> anthony: incredible. look at that. wow. the pumpkin is amazing. we also have that great sabodet sausage from monsieur reynon. oh, look at that. >> daniel's dad: oh la la. >> anthony: cabbage and potatoes
all steamed in the still. the flavor you get from the fermented grape -- awesome. >> daniel: yeah, it's awesome, huh? >> anthony: it's good. so good. and if you know daniel at all, he can't really help himself. he's popping up and down, serving everybody, making sure everything's just right. and sitting here with his family in the house he grew up in, you can see where it all comes from. madam and monsieur, their son, he's now a gigantic, international success. when he was a young man at 14 sneezing in the field, did they ever anticipate this? [ daniel's dad speaking french ] >> anthony: no! no early indications of greatness? but i mean, there is a line, isn't there, from the farm, and haute cuisine. they all reflect the region, hopefully. >> daniel: yeah. >> anthony: but in the best case, they're interdependent. they -- they come from each other. in fact, who cooks in the great restaurants? well farm boys, basically. that's who always cook. my deepest thanks to your mother and your father. thank you. >> daniel: merci. next time, my father will make you drive the tractor. [ laughter ]