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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  February 17, 2019 12:00am-1:01am PST

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♪ >> anthony: who are those ugly white men? they don't look friendly. who are those assholes anyway? it's like some ugly dutch guys with, like, with guns. i guess they weren't particularly friendly to the current power. they look like their either coming from or on their way to oppressing a black man. first order of business, man, when i take my country back, first order of business is take that shit down, am i right or what?
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i'm kind of amazed. tear that down. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪
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♪ >> anthony: in july 2013 when i went to south africa, 95-year-old nelson mandela was critically ill. and a country he freed from white minority rule was already in mourning and already fearful of what the future might be without him. >> man: it's really, really sad because the world still needs him. he's the guy who fought for our freedom. >> woman 1: i pray that he -- somebody takes the baton from him. >> woman 2: i wish him a speedy recovery and he comes back to his people. ♪
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>> anthony: so a good friend of mine, a really great travel writer, said something, "the more i travel, the less i know." i feel that particularly strongly here in south africa, a place i came in a state of near total ignorance loaded with preconceptions. for the first part of my life, the south africa i knew was not a happy place or a good place, it was a pariah state, surrealistically, outrageously divided into black and white. a throwback to attitudes we thought we long learned to reject. ♪ the nationalist government in south africa enacted apartheid laws in 1948, who you can marry, where you lived, where you could walk, be educated, everything decided by racist laws backed by police, army, and secret services. the institutionalized racial
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discrimination was designed to maintain white minority power and economically suppress the black and mixed-race south africans who lived in townships, mostly in poverty. in 1923, the african national congress was formed. by 1961, it had been radicalized by the influence of a young nelson mandela, among others, and formed an armed wing called the spear of the nation. >> man: do you see africans being able to develop in this country without the european being pushed out? >> mandela: we have made it very clear in our policy that south africa is a country of many races. there is room for all the various races. ♪ >> anthony: in 1963, mandela was charged with sabotage and conspiracy and sentenced to life imprisonment on robben island.
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it would take another 27 years of violence and injustice before the inevitable would happen. >> man 1: do you believe in apartheid? >> man 2: i believe that according to god's will, that the white race should be preserved. >> anthony: with south africa's white minority under international sanctions, internal political pressure and the decline of the communist threat, mandela was released from prison in 1990. in '94, he was elected president of the new, free, south africa. there have been very few figures in the entire history of the world as revered or as important as nelson mandela. but the question is, what happens next? ♪ >> anthony: johannesburg or joburg or josie, the largest
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city by population in south africa and the economic powerhouse of the country. southwest of johannesburg, soweto -- originally an acronym for southwestern townships. now the area is consided a suburb. [ shouting at tv ] >> anthony: in 2010, south africa played host for the world cup. the blk jks, who played for the opening celebration, are a soweto-based band. they are also, not surprisingly, soccer fans. ♪
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>> anthony: we're here on game day, a grudge match, in a country where soccer approaches religion. you can feel it in soweto, or rather you can see it, as everywhere you look people show their love for the either local orlando pirates or for the johannesburg kaiser chiefs. mawilies inn, a typical local joint in soweto. the perfect place to watch a game, talk about a game, drink yourself silly over the results of the game or just have a very fine, local-style meal. it is, however, a little hard to find. there are a lot of places like this? i mean, this used to be the garage or carport right? >> mpume: yeah, definitely. >> anthony: in what was once a garage are now six tables, a lawn-turned-lounge out back. closed on sundays if grandma is visiting. these kinds of bars were born
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during a apartheid times when black south africans not allowed to own businesses in white areas adapted and improvised. they did their own thing, created these little micro "under the official radar" restaurants known around here as eat-houses. >> mpume: back in the day obviously it was illegal. >> anthony: right. >> tshepang: during apartheid. so they'll have meetings to actually plan what they're gonna do. >> anthony: right, so this would be considered a hotbed of sedition. >> mpume: yeah, exactly. >> anthony: now it's just a hotbed of drinking. >> mpume: yeah. different kind of sedition. >> anthony: mpume and tshepang from the blk jks have just finished watching the game when i joined them for some food. generally speaking, are these good times in south africa? bad times? transitional times? >> tshepang: obviously 1994 was the peak of the good times in south africa. now with all of the politics, you know, all the parties, the fighting, it's quite tense right
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now. >> mpume: it's not like it was before, where everybody's -- you know, it's black and white, literally you know, like we're unified on this and they're unified on that. >> anthony: these days the party that freed the country from white rule, the anc, is not universally loved anymore. in recent years they have been criticized for inaction, corruption, and cronyism, and opposition parties are gaining strength. >> mpume: so now it's more nuanced, and i think that's maybe new to us. so i think we're trying to navigate this nuanced reality, how do you deal with so many opinions and, you know, the party that you loved the whole time that brought about this freedom is fumbling the ball, so what do you do? because in democracy you should act. >> waitress: there's smileys for a snack.
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♪ >> anthony: smileys -- fire-roasted sheep's head, lips shriveled back in a joker-like rictus of deliciousness. chopped into tasty, tasty bits and eaten with cold beer? yes, of course, yes. it just needs a little salt and pepper. good stuff. that looks good! >> mpume: this is pap. >> anthony: what is it? >> mpume: it's like maize. >> anthony: pap, or meal pap. a sticky porridge made from ground cornmeal. it fills the role that grits do in the american south, rice in much of asia. it's tasty, relatively nutritious and cheap filler. and it sops up gravy when you have something like this stewed beef, real good. >> mpume: that's the traditional dumpling. >> anthony: that's a dumpling? >> mpume: yeah, it's not really like other dumplings. >> anthony: dumplings, important throughout the african diaspora, made with flour and yeast. a spongy bread-type tool for mopping up sauce. stewed greens, carrots, beans,
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and more gravy. wow, those are awesome. so tell me about your band. how long have you guys been together? >> mpume: about ten years now. >> anthony: whoa, a long time. would you say that you're an indie band? >> tshepang: ah, well -- >> anthony: is there an indie scene in -- what i guess i'm getting at is there -- >> mpume: are there hipsters in south africa? >> anthony: is there a -- is there a -- i was kind of getting there. >> tshepang: is there a south african williamsburg? ♪ >> mpume: in terms of south african street culture, people are really pushing the boundaries now. we didn't really have a scene when we started. you look around, it's like, man, like demographic is crazy. >> anthony: what do you mean by that? >> mpume: it's not just racial, like, classes, you know? people are being pushed and pulled. it's like an aspirational
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culture thing. >> anthony: what do you think that means? >> mpume: the whole rainbow nation notion was quite romantic and ridiculous, you know. like, racism is not on a piece of paper so just 'cause we voted it out doesn't mean people stop being racist, you know, so it's ridiculous in that sense, but we've lived something else for 20 years. people want it. it's no longer, like, a coffee table idea. ♪ we'd love some help with laundry. here's how you do it. spray and scrub anything with a stain. soak your nasty jersey. it stinks! wash the really dirty clothes separately. remember -hard work builds character! new tide pods with upgraded 4-in-1 technology unleash a foolproof clean in one step. aww, you did the laundry! but you didn't fold it. oh, that wasn't in the note. should have sent a text.
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for just one hundred bucks a month. around the clock. and with a $0 copay, that's something to groove about. ♪let's groove tonight. toujeo® is used to control high blood sugar in adults with diabetes. it contains 3 times as much insulin in 1 milliliter as standard insulin. don't use toujeo® to treat diabetic ketoacidosis, during episodes of low blood sugar, or if you're allergic to insulin. get medical help right away if you have a serious allergic reaction such as body rash, or trouble breathing. don't reuse needles, or share insulin pens. the most common side effect is low blood sugar, which can be life-threatening. it may cause shaking, sweating, fast heartbeat, and blurred vision. check your blood sugar levels daily. injection site reactions may occur. don't change your dose of insulin without talking to your doctor. tell your doctor about all your medicines and medical conditions. check insulin label each time you inject. taking tzds with insulins like toujeo®
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may cause heart failure that can lead to death. toujeo®, ask your doctor. ♪let's groove tonight. that can lead to death. shorten your cold by almost half with cold-eeze®. cold-eeze® can shorten your cold by 42%. it releases zinc ions that may inhibit cold viruses from replicating. try cold-eeze® the #1 pharmacist recommended zinc lozenge. >> sanza: respect money maker. one love, man. >> anthony: this is sanza sandile. >> sanza: looking nice. >> anthony: pioneer of sorts. >> sanza: respect. >> anthony: he's taken a traditional cook shop space in the yoeville neighborhood of
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johannesburg and done something different. >> sanza: hello, beautiful, how you've been? >> anthony: yoeville is a neighborhood where just about everybody comes from somewhere else. >> sanza: i came here around 20 years ago. from soweto, i grew up in soweto. and then when we heard about the bells of change, we all ran to this central part of the city. >> anthony: with the end of apartheid and the emergence of mandela as not just an inspirational figure but the beginning of real and compassionate black african government, south africa became a beacon and a refuge for millions of africans from all over the continent. >> anthony: black south africans fought hard for their freedom in their country. as i understand a lot of them are pretty pissed off about, "hey, we're just getting our -- together," and whoa all these congolese and nigerians, well you know, they're coming in. >> sanza: of course there's gonna be that giving and taking, you know. and then people say, mandela's gonna die, they're gonna take all these people away, you know, that's not what our people are all about. and then now that's when i took, you know, the tour of food. because that was the first was to engage.
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>> anthony: sanza has no formal culinary training. he's completely self-taught, picking up bits and pieces where he can, often from the women in the neighborhood. so you're plucking the best of everybody's culinary culture. >> sanza: everyday. every day i learn. the smell. the color of the broth. what are you eating? where are you from? i've been taught by some men, "that's not how it's cooked at home," you know? >> anthony: right. >> sanza: go to that auntie. to the back of some dingy club, in the back there's a small kitchen. look there, it'll be nice. she'll teach you something. and then, that's me. >> anthony: uh-huh. >> sanza: hey auntie, you know, i'm really keen on how you make that particular sauce. >> anthony: and they'll cook -- they'll show you. >> sanza: they're showing me stuff. i pick up. and i rush back to the shop and i try it out. i've got all the elements, you know. >> anthony: at his cook shop, he mixes recipes, ingredients, techniques and traditions as he sees fit. one reviewer described his style as gastronomic smuggling, moving people across borders with dishes that slyly partake of
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elsewhere. on today's menu -- >> sanza: i made this for you, this egusi and beef. a traditional nigerian dish. >> anthony: okay. >> sanza: they usually use a cow leg. >> anthony: beef stewed with melon and pumpkin seeds. there's futu, the ubiquitous cornmeal porridge, but made to a texture more crumbly than pap. >> sanza: this is a basmati rice with rosewater. this is acha. it's aubergines and mango. and then, they're pickled. this has got cassava in it from the congolese. >> anthony: and black-eyed peas, with cassava? >> sanza: the cassava, these are the falafels. >> anthony: right. good taste. >> sanza: is it? >> anthony: oh yeah. awesome. you have good food here. menu change every day? >> sanza: that's the idea. >> anthony: you're doing a lot of great food in a small space. there are no seats. his customers remain part of the constantly unfolding street theater of yeoville. they mingle, talk, observe. >> man: lots of people, lots of stories pass through here. lots of culture interaction. 'cause everybody's got something interesting to say as far as we're concerned.
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>> sanza: 'cause food, i knew that food is a way to engage. you got to put something in your mouth to get your ears open, right? ♪ >> anthony: across town, another pioneer of sorts, an urban settler in a very different neighborhood. this is hillbrow, a notoriously dangerous district. and this is dj les. >> dj les: when i came here, i only dreamt of being a musician. imagined myself singing in front of a huge crowd, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> anthony: he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot -- sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? well, that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> dj les: i love -- there's the fried chicken. >> anthony: the place is heavy with the smell of frying
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chicken, stewing greens. walk right up, place your order, and be sure to get some millipop, heaped on a plate with beets and coleslaw, it's a nice, heavy base. so tell me about the neighborhood. >> dj les: when i first came, eh, it was rough, my friend. >> anthony: before '92, it was like white business district, residential district? >> dj les: back then, it used to be cool, it used to be clean, it used to be respected. >> anthony: once, hillbrow was an elite, whites-only center of town. but when things started to change, so did hillbrow, becoming one of the first gray areas where whites and blacks mixed. hillbrow became aspirational. a symbol of everything black africans had long been denied, but was now accessible. people poured in in large numbers. many of them squatters from all over the continent. >> dj les: people come here. they come here with one intention. making a living, making money.
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black kids, black cars they start coming in. the white cars -- >> anthony: white landlords and tenants simply walked away from their property. the disenfranchised who moved in legally, semi-legally, illegally or just squatting, an influx of gangs and criminal organizations, the area soon slipped into anarchy. >> dj les: they say around here, okay? that this building's been hijacked. >> anthony: entire buildings were seized to become superstores for illicit drug operations. everything that could go wrong, did. >> dj les: people make a living from different things. some, they rob people to make a living. or some, they sell their bodies. sometimes, things are -- they don't always go according to what you plan. but this is where i live. this is where my life is. yeah, we go down here. i'll show you. [ yelling ]
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>> anthony: we walk down the street, and one of the many enterprises doing business on corners and in doorways around us, becomes alarmed at the sight of our cameras. soon there's a mob of very angry people coming our way. we do not turn around our cameras for obvious reasons. these days, things are slowly, slowly improving. >> dj les: but before, you wouldn't walk this freely. now we are free. >> anthony: there's actual law enforcement going on in fits and starts. and that's making a difference. black-owned legitimate businesses have gained a real foothold. there are new revitalization projects like farmer's markets springing up. >> young boy: hello, tony! >> anthony: buildings are being reclaimed and people here hope that hillbrow is past the bad old days. >> dj les: there's no fear now. we have to relax, nothing will happen to you. mucinex cold & flu all-in-one. fights...
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>> anthony: what's in a name? if the name is soweto, you best believe it means plenty. >> mdu: let's go, let's go. >> anthony: this is mdu. for over a decade he's been in what is at times has been in the very difficult business of driving a taxi. you should probably know that the word taxi in soweto means something a little different then say, new york. >> mdu: 60% of the -- of the population is using a taxi. >> anthony: how many taxis in johannesburg? >> mdu: i would say more than a million.
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>> anthony: this coming from a potential passenger means soweto. also this and this. johannesburg has an elaborate system of hand signals indicating desired routes of travel. so you're looking at the hand signals, and said, "okay, i'm not going there, i'm not going there." >> mdu: yeah, i'm looking at the hand signal. >> anthony: in 1904, soweto came into being as a less benign version of the housing project. it was designed as worker's lodging. a place to put black laborers comfortably removed from white society. a ghetto. by the 1950s, it had become the center of resistance to white rule, synonymous with the struggle against the whole rotten racist system. >> mdu: i remember when the situation was so bad in such a way that my mother had to put me inside a box where we put shoes and hide me there, under the bed. this is where i grew up most of the time. sometimes you would get bullied.
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there was this time two guys were following me. they lifted me up and i had probably some few coins in my pocket. and just turned me around. just to shake me. >> anthony: shake you upside down? >> mdu: shake me upside down. i will never forget that moment in my life. i felt stupid, you know? get in, get in, ma. >> woman: how are you? >> mdu: hello. >> anthony: now there is a definite cache to living in soweto. a very real pride at having been at the very center of things back when it was hard dangerous to have an opinion. nelson mandela lived here. desmond tutu. when you're a certain age and you say you were born and bred in soweto, it means something. now do most of the people own their homes, or do they rent? >> mdu: uh, most of the people own their homes. >> anthony: they start to make a little more money, things start to get good, can you build up? >> mdu: yeah. you can build up. >> anthony: look at the streets here and you see what that kind of pride does. it may not be a rich area, but it's immaculate. squared away. an emerging middle class coming
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up rather than fleeing to elsewhere. >> woman: you have a nice day, gentlemens. >> anthony: you too. >> mdu: bye. those ladies over here, you can see they're marketing for their stalls. [ lady speaking foreign language ] >> anthony: you know where you're going right? >> mdu: yeah, i know where i'm going. >> anthony: next exit, smokey, delicious meat over flame. under the overpass, all sorts of mystery meats for sale. the taxi man's lunch. we order some brisket, some sausage, some heart. beautiful thing. meat, a cutting board, a knife. >> mdu: cut out the meat in pieces, that's how you eat it. most of the time they serve it with tomato and raw chili. that's more or less like a salad for you. we have salt over here. it's nice. >> anthony: you chose well, these guys are good. >> mdu: oh.
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>> anthony: here, spread over thousands of square feet, the remnants of white colonial rule. what's left from the descendants of bible-thumping dutch settlers who came here to farm, to ranch, to build their own world on top of an existing one. the boers, as they were known, came in the 1600s. and if nothing else could be said about them, they were tough bunch of bastards. in the 1800s, the british came. diamonds were discovered, greed heads jockeyed for power. there was war, an ugly one. in the end, there was an uneasy sharing of power. the boers become known as afrikaners. and entering the 20th century, racist afrikaner ideology grew. apartheid laws were enacted and white domination became the rule for almost a hundred years. but look. meat! you want to see an ex-pat south african weep? wave some of this under their nose.
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biltong. it's like a mussolini-themed restaurant? >> andrea: yeah. that's it, that's it. neo-fascist butchery. >> anthony: oh, the good old days. >> andrea: it doesn't really look like any butcher i've ever been into. >> anthony: an hour north by northwest of johannesburg, is pretoria, still the administrative center of south africa, once the heart of the apartheid. here you can find maders -- a father-son butchery, restaurant, and theme museum. i just don't know how i feel about this place. it doesn't fit in with my white liberal guilt sensibility. >> andrea: a room like this, with all of this kind of afrikaner paraphernalia in it, it just wouldn't be accepted an hour away. it couldn't exist. >> anthony: as any south african butcher would, they sell biltong. sprinkle some salt, brown sugar, some malt vinegar, pack in layers repeat. after 24 hours, remove and hang to air dry for a week. voila. a tasty jerky treat we can all get behind.
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chef andrea burgener, south african by birth, english and german by background, can usually be found in the trenches of her joburg restaurant, the leopard. she's known for her playful menus, but loathes culinary fashion. she strives for a locally grounded cuisine. today, however, she is my guide through this twilight zone. ♪ it's weird here. and though i am told the place usually reflects the changing demographic of modern south africa, today, not so much. the customers may or may not have feelings about the afrikaner memorabilia, but really, they just come for the meat. you pick your meat at the butcher counter. we choose some t-bone, some rump steak, some boerewors, spicy sausage made from beef and pork. >> andrea: and then what we must get, because i assume it's separate, is monkey gland sauce. do you know what monkey gland sauce is?
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>> anthony: monkey gland sauce? >> andrea: every steakhouse has monkey gland sauce. it's barbecue sauce. >> anthony: they cook it up, along with some pap and fries, and presto -- a colon-clogging pile of meat in the ruins of empire. >> andrea: yeah, i mean, meat is a very big thing. this is the monkey gland. there's enough of it, i think. >> anthony: good lord, i mean, i could swim in it. mm, tastes like oppression. after this show airs, i'm gonna get a huge amount of mail saying, "why didn't you go to cape town?" great modern restaurants, cutting-edge chefs. is it all right that i missed all of that? >> andrea: i feel like those particular restaurants in cape town are not really representative of what most people in this country are eating. i think a lot of our most basic stuff is really what we do best. this food has absolutely got no interest in fashion. it's never gonna change. there'll still be the monkey gland sauce and the boerewors and the steak and the pap. >> anthony: do you think that white chefs here understand that the greatest advantage they have is that this enormous
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pan-african larder of ingredients and flavors? >> andrea: hmm, no. if you're a whitey in the city, you're probably gonna eat the worst food of anyone in the city, quite honestly. in every country, i mean, obviously food is political, but it always feels like it's a bit more political here. that there are these layers of things that you couldn't have. like restaurants. i mean, i go to restaurants and i think to myself, "wow, this many years ago, i couldn't have come here with this person. they were not allowed to sit in here." and i remember very clearly being about 8, the café owner would regularly not pay the customer who was black with change. he would pay him with bubblegum. and the guy, somehow, he couldn't argue. it was just like this thing. if you're a black guy, you got your change in bubblegum. and you'd be standing there, 8 years old and feeling like oh my god, it was so terrible, but you couldn't say anything because that would've been worse. it was just like this weird
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thing of sweeties, it was so un-innocent and represented such badness. it just seems mad. ♪ you control your blood sugar around the clock. and with a $0 copay, that's something to groove about. ♪let's groove tonight. toujeo® is used to control high blood sugar in adults with diabetes. it contains 3 times as much insulin in 1 milliliter as standard insulin. don't use toujeo® to treat diabetic ketoacidosis, during episodes of low blood sugar, or if you're allergic to insulin. get medical help right away if you have a serious allergic reaction such as body rash, or trouble breathing. don't reuse needles, or share insulin pens. the most common side effect is low blood sugar, which can be life-threatening. it may cause shaking, sweating, fast heartbeat, and blurred vision. check your blood sugar levels daily. injection site reactions may occur. don't change your dose of insulin without talking to your doctor.
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tell your doctor about all your medicines and medical conditions. check insulin label each time you inject. taking tzds with insulins like toujeo® may cause heart failure that can lead to death. toujeo®, ask your doctor. ♪let's groove tonight. they have businesses to grow customers to care for lives to get home to they use print discounted postage for any letter any package any time right from your computer all the amazing services of the post office only cheaper get our special tv offer a 4-week trial plus postage and a digital scale go to and never go to the post office again! how's your cough? i'm good. i took 12-hour mucinex and sent it far away.
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♪ >> anthony: this is an eland, the largest antelope in the world. it is also unluckily for him, delicious. [ gunshots ] got him. >> dion: i think that was very good. >> anthony: it's a little sad, you know? >> dion: it is sad. it is sad, but you know what that is such good meat, and that's really what we do.
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>> anthony: though this one weighs in around a ton, rest assured every bite, every scrap, will be eaten. some of that tonight at dinner. chef andrea bergener, dion, a local hunting expert, and myself join prospero baily on his game farm. prospero's dad jim baily was the legendary publisher of the slyly subversive "drum" magazine, the first of its kind during apartheid. a black-oriented investigative magazine slickly disguised as glossy pop culture. prospero's farm is a mere 20 miles from johannesburg. >> dion: do you see the city there? >> anthony: yeah. wild, all this within sight of the city. near prospero's farm and hidden within the city's shadow is what's known as the cradle of human kind. a unesco world heritage site. an incredible look back at where
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we, the human animal, came from. >> dion: here there's a classic little sinkhole. there's loads of these. this is what this area is. i mean, the cradle, this is called the cradle, it's in our world heritage site 'cause 60% of all the evidence for human evolution comes out of this valley. it's from caves like this that keep the record. the geology just conspires to preserve fossils. they're very, very rare things, hominid fossils, but they've found more here in the last ten years than they're sort of found anywhere. so you're home. this is where you started. >> anthony: this is my ancestral homeland? >> dion: this is your ancestral homeland. >> anthony: oh, that sound makes me happy. what does that sound remind you of, guys? what does that evoke for you, that sound? primeval? you know, happy childhoods at
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the beach. meat sizzling over the fire, you know, parental love, your enemy's genitals frying in hot oil? nothing? no? downright precambrian. fire and fresh-killed eland. i get to work on the heart, something i strongly suspect will be delicious. and i'm right. andrea works some magic on the liver. dredged in flour and sautéed. there's some eland loin seared and glazed with booze. and there's eland paprikash, a riff on the hungarian stew with paprika, peppers, onions, tomatoes, and cream. as the sun sets over the veldt, johannesburg's lights winking in the distance, a feast. meat on the plate, blood on my pants, life is good. [ laughter ] i've been very, very, very confused by my visit here. i mean, you've got basically a goulash here, italian-inflected
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liver thing going on here, the bread someone referred to as portuguese? >> prospero: yup, portuguese. but it's from madeira, that bread, that flatbread. >> anthony: south africa, depending on who i talk to, it's a completely different construct. to some people, it's whoever comes to south africa from anywhere else in africa and brings good -- along with them. but other people, it's all the good stuff from malaysia, east indies, there's the dutch, there's the english influence. >> andrea: well, there were so many different colonialists. it is a mishmash. >> anthony: what at this table is originally african and does that even have any meaning? >> dion: this wood is pine. [ laughter ] >> dinner guest: and us. >> anthony: i arrived in this country spectacularly ignorant. i will leave spectacularly ignorant. [ laughter ] ♪
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>> anthony: ramadan. at this hour all over johannesburg, members of south africa's sizeable muslim community observe. the religion of islam as well as many of south africa's most beloved and most delicious dishes and ingredients like sambal, chutney and bunny chow come from malaysia, indonesia,
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india. during apartheid, many south africans would have be referred to as colored. colored didn't mean black. it meant everybody else who wasn't exactly white -- asians and mixed-race. >> joey: it's garlic, ginger, and chili. >> anthony: in the observatory neighborhood of johannesburg, the rasdien family prepares for iftar -- the meal at sundown when fasting for ramadan is broken. >> joey: some curry powder. >> anthony: joey rasdien is a stand-up comedian and actor of cape malay background. >> joey: the beef, the beef. the beef is in. >> anthony: this dish -- panang curry with beef and eggs. joey's wife cindy prepares a chicken pie. son hakeem makes the traditional ramadan shake. daughter layyah. >> layyah: i can cook. [ laughter ]
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♪ >> anthony: everything smells terrific. >> joey: there's barley soup. >> anthony: nice. >> cindy: it's nicer to have soup after you've not eaten the whole day. it's like it's light and nourishing and filling and all of those good things. >> anthony: there is also cheese and beef samosas. these are delicious. you were born here. born in johannesburg? >> joey: yes, i was, yeah. i'm a johannesburg guy. >> anthony: so how are things? >> joey: it depends what types of things you're speaking about. >> anthony: basically, things work, society operates the way society should, but on the other hand, in many ways this is a new country. >> joey: it is. we're 19 years old. >> anthony: everybody's from someplace else. >> cindy: i think the africans from the other countries see south africa as a place of hope, because there's a lot of bustling here. there are a lot of opportunities, lots of people make it from here. you won't find 3 million germans
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coming here or 3 million french people coming here. it's africans who come from -- to come and find a little bit of something here. >> joey: so how do you find south africa so far? >> cindy: yeah. >> anthony: i like it. i'm very comfortable here. i like a country where people have a sense of humor. a lot of ball-busting going on in this country. >> joey: all the time, from the top to the bottom. >> anthony: 20 years from now, what is south africa going to be like? >> joey: their generation, the born-frees now, is the one that's giving our current president lots of hell. the born-frees is the ones that was born in the new democracy or just before the first election. the born-frees now, they like, "look here, we went to school. this is right and this is wrong. and what you're doing is wrong." but we had a struggle. >> cindy: yeah. >> joey: yeah, "we weren't part of a struggle. i don't care. thank you for the struggle, i'll go twitter now." >> anthony: now i want five bars on my 3g. i want -- >> cindy: yeah. >> joey: absolutely. >> anthony: wi-fi, and it better
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be high speed. >> joey: absolutely. >> cindy: and why can't i have it? >> joey: why can't i have it? >> cindy: i don't think the current politicians foresaw that. >> joey: yeah. >> cindy: foresaw the born-frees not supporting them. >> anthony: right. >> joey: there's a critical mass of young people that wants to change south africa in a positive way. how they do it or how they go about it, i don't know the answer to that. neither do they know the answer to that, but their intentions is clear. the communal feast. potluck. this parade of dishes will soon be yours to scrub. and they're not even... yours. new and improved dawn ultra can finish off this buffet. each drop now has even more grease-cleaning power. so you can scrub 50% less, and get done faster. next month, their place!
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>> anthony: no more hipster jokes. it's low-hanging fruit, and one can no longer argue against the steady creep of their foodie sensibilities. artisanal cheeses? yes, right over there. handmade charcuterie? yes, there. thin-crust pizza, a very respectable paella. yes, yes, and yes. it's official. they're here and they aren't going anywhere. i like the idea of a burger for breakfast. there's something a little perverse about that. throw in a crowd of much more racially diverse hungry people and you might think you're in brooklyn. surely, this is not a bad thing. this is neighbourgood's market in the braamfontein precinct of johannesburg. my dining companion, "city press" arts and features writer percy mabandu, says we should hold out for this -- the balkan burger. >> cook: next! >> anthony: one with cheese for
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me. >> percy: one with cheese, lots of cheese. >> anthony: hell yeah, flattened ground beef seared over flame. >> percy: yeah. don't cook me. cook the food, all right? >> anthony: add kashkaval and mozzarella cheese, fold it up, pick your condiments. you got cabbage, tomato, onion, lettuce, of course, and hot peppers. up to the roof with a view, and eat. woo! spicy, good. i guess i wanna talk about nelson mandela, because what i was not aware of at all was the degree to which he was personally responsible for really the nuts and bolts of the transition from white rule to majority rule. >> percy: oh right. >> anthony: now he's very ill. >> percy: ill, yeah. >> anthony: what happens after mandela do you think? >> percy: we go on. i think the foundation is laid. and i think thank god we have him as a symbol.
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i think mandela represents our collective better intentions as a nation. >> anthony: all the things that could have gone terribly wrong, it's a remarkable thing how well it -- it went. >> percy: between 1990 and 1994, tough times, you know, intense fighting, black-on-black violence, black-on-white violence. are we going to descend into a black path? but we transcended that through that message of coming together regardless of the unresolved issues. >> anthony: to what extent is it really a rainbow nation? are things getting mixed? we like to think we live in a rainbow nation, but in fact, in the states, black and white live in to a great extent in different neighborhoods. it's only 19 years. in some ways it looks to me outside looking in, a little more gracefully mixed up than we've managed to pull off successfully in the states. >> percy: here, i mean, you've got black, white, colored, you know, all sorts of people here. but i think, in all fairness
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also one should have knowledge that the economic disparities are managing to keep us divided as well. i think what we need to do is unpack what we mean by rainbow. i think the idea of united in our diversity also mean that, you know, and there are moments of discord. >> anthony: and do you think things will continue to improve? >> percy: yeah, i think we've seen our worst. and that's not to say that we're getting it right all the time, but it's an experiment with democracy. it's an experiment you need to fine-tune as you go along. that's really the south african story. the dream is there, we all agree. the divisions are there, but these are not bigger than our hopes. >> anthony: what did i know about south africa before i came here? exactly nothing as it turns out. but i think based on what i've seen is that if the world can get it right here, a country with a past like south africa's, if they can figure out how to make it work here for everybody, absorb all the people flooding
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in from all over africa, continue to make mandela's dream a reality, maybe there is hope for the rest of us. a final battle for territory in its final days. u.s.-backed forces say they are nearing victory against isis in eastern syria. our correspondent on the ground near the front lines has the story. more aid arrives from the united states amid the humanitarian crisis in venezuela. cnn is there in colombia as it's unloaded. and police sources say evidence suggests an american actor orchestrated a hate crime against himself, and he's now reacting to that report. >> many stories ahead this hour. welcome to our viewers in the united states and around the world. ghog you live


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