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tv   Doc Film - Marlene Dietrichs Last Dress  Deutsche Welle  December 31, 2017 5:30pm-6:01pm CET

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surfing waste and polluted what just. basically is this a still less lawless in the top of the nation full of. these really decent it's sad to go somewhere every day and see more and more time in the scene gives me everything the way most of the winds have to give something back so i feel obliged to assume. one waves surfers fighting against unseen pollution in the sea starting january seventh on g.w. . my d.s. i've solved the problem i don't need to carry any batteries around the most important
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thing is the effect we've got to find a way to make the dress light up. all my love and kisses to everyone malina. my lane at the taj got just about everything she wanted in life except for a dress that would light up even though she so dearly wanted it for a major appearance in las vegas. work. turn me one see. early. to look. here. will. work. if you.
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work there. is a course in star big stars like marlena were like fixed stars in the night sky a shining light in a dark tunnel. and climbing for a small figure moved closer but it was like some kind of movie effect where you couldn't see that she was actually moving and then on stage she said in a breathy voice on hey boys able are. my limited precisely how to seduce a crowd in the one nine hundred fifty s. . she began her second career as an entertainer in las vegas her shows in the congo room at the sahara hotel were a smash hit even though she was on stage for just twenty minutes
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a night. with marlena everything was perfect every gesture the way she positioned her fingers. she was an ultra glamorous figure. but it was more than that she was radiant like a supernova that suddenly appeared that is her legacy it's like mice in porcelain or ten carat cut diamond. and spent. some of the more breathtaking costume designs are stored here at the marlaina detention archive in berlin.
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the church was now in her early fifty's to her hollywood glory days were over but she still long to play to an audience in one nine hundred fifty three the sahara hotel made her an offer she couldn't refuse thirty thousand dollars a week for three weeks the most lucrative contract in las vegas and more than she had ever earned before in return plan to offer her audience something really special. she'd set new performance standards maximum glamour and minimal costumes. everyone was happy. the headline reads london doesn't want to see this this photo underscores the fact that this costume was intended to convey the impression of unabashed nudity so this piece was
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a reaction to her one nine hundred fifty three shows in las vegas before the london show in one thousand nine hundred fifty four the german press was sharply critical . they even referred to her as a grandmother and she didn't like that at all. but lena was a secretive person and disciplined as well she tried to circumvent the process of aging to break the power of aging action by anyone who told us a lot and she wasn't a great singer and she knew it so she used racy customs to enhance her performances . she was past fifty and was wearing these nearly nude outfits. that was really rather provocative. the designer behind those costumes was john we in the one nine hundred fifty four letter to him i adore you.
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want is on the way to work for her but he was under exclusive contract with columbia pictures still she managed to work out a deal with the studio john louise designs were legendary rita hayworth in the one nine hundred forty six film gilda. wore the gallon worn by marilyn monroe and in one nine hundred sixty two birthday celebration for president john f. kennedy. money that the cons milan had very clear ideas and she knew that john we understood her it was pretty amazing as she wasn't easy to work with she knew exactly what she wanted her performance to look like and that's about as well i would have liked to have met my lena but as an artist i think she made life extremely difficult for does. miners and others who worked with her design that it's just. a. push on the way made each fish part of the creative
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process and together they design costumes that made her an icon. to trash would provide the designer with some preliminary concepts like this one for a full length coat made of swan down. vendi to propose a project that was close to her heart a custom that would light up she wrote about it to john louis and great detail. december six nine hundred fifty eight. dearest joan i could have shown you what i want on that old sketch that you made with the white flour less. pink sketches actually closer to what i want but how can we hide the cable and the light bulbs under the flop petals on the dress. and the garlands us to the problem i think the coat will get in the way perhaps we could use an office coat and the
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garlands would reach up to the blouse. as in mind as she wanted something that would glittering glow from top to bottom. as the sets but now that i've read her instructions again it's very hard to imagine a forest finish. think of the technology back then the electrical cables and the light bulbs and the ball fittings she definitely have to carry around a lot of stuff i mean go up and that's all stuff. but perhaps today's technology could be used to create such a costume. berlin designer lisa lange is the founder and c.e.o. of electro quit tour a company that creates high tech fashion. laying also organizes the fashion tech awards in berlin. the age of wearable technology has begun at laying studio her team creates designs
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that combine contemporary fashion and smart devices. were. laying loves a challenge and as a fan of marlena detach she agreed to create a fashion tech dress fit for the diva. that's part of the yes look this was my first jacket with lights we've come away since then the l.e.d.s. were a little bigger then that was three years ago but this jacket was already interactive then it has its own sim card so it's even got its own phone number you can send a text and alter the sequence. the technology has become more sophisticated in distress designed by on your dog on the l e d's are simply sewn into the fabric.
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the most to. is the effect we've got to find a way to make the dress light up. almost sixty years after melina detached came up with the idea lees and started working out a high tech costume that might meet the star specifications. for inspiration they visit the archive of the marlena de trash collection in berlin. if it. is on the stoop here's a very unusual item from columbia studios we have to handle it quite carefully. melinda had a fairly short torso and very long legs she was about one meter sixty seven tall or
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one sixty eight. centimeter. looks different. and i think it's a. bigger. source yeah yeah this shape is. very strong on the waist is super small. always stood with a bit of a hollow back leaning back a little. some of the fabric was removed so that the length would work. in the back sides very flat and yeah. this is the wind. it's composed of many layers of extremely sheer. fabric. when she worked she used a wind machine machine.
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does it is the stuff on and some of the material would be blown against her body and some would be blown behind her back when that happened she looked like a greek goddess. only i just was on the line to talk to always underline those things that she considered important problem here as she wanted to know for example whether a tight skirt would cause problems. of course there wasn't any spandex back then maybe double so-fla stuff schools. this is what the souffle we've looks like the work threads don't go all the way through their twisted and secured by a weft insertion and this in. some sofa is a bit more flexible than say she fun but you really can't stretch it so the material would tear if she'd bend over too far for a boy or raise an arm too high. her
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performances were quite static she'd just stand there and sing in close like this she could move much. as you could only do that by hand that's all hand crafted yes claim being up thinner and thinner to possums as this material became more transparent as it rose upwards on. there was no embroidery over the bust it started from that point downwards. as far as i was it was supposed to create a new look with no visible seams or anything and since and rosita stone you can see that there was embroidery covering the bottom parts of the bus to the. not the top parts. wish to.
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do must because if you are a stage performer you have to make yourself larger than life that's what makes you a star some star. these are swarovski crystals and here are some of the embroidery samples. in the seamstresses used to send lots of samples back and forth marlena would inspect them and suggest improvements. but even feathery costumes like this with thousands of sequence were not enough for the trash she demanded more illumination for maximum visual impact.
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oh i've got goosebumps. looks like as if it's yeah right this is what it's for. and this time she wanted to work with light and play around with the. light was quite important to her for example the way her face was lit it all makes sense. with. the noise from. the stage lighting plans that we have here in the collection were very sophisticated. they outlined the various. to be achieved with each song and each costume. with a smile think it's always there is
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a list of things to pay particular attention to and things to avoid. and which song went with which lighting concept. i think. miley that marilyn surrounded herself with the best staff possible so it's still. here are some color filter tests everything was worked out in advance from the very first second of the show to the very last so let's. just say let's see quinn is of that's not true that. she was trying to reinvent herself to create a new stage character and so she instinctively pushed the limits she says in effect . i'll just go out there with the lights on with it's up comedy wind noise to.
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just. it's a flower dress. and there's a lot of details. that are that we thought about while designing and decided to go for a combination like that inspiration actually comes a bit from this era but we will make it very modern because i think that's why it's she would want us well and now that we have the technology to make actually what she wants us or the mindset is like my lena is our customer you know but what would she want and look would we do in two thousand and seventeen of course is the show piece it's a piece for us h so it has it can go a little bit here a z and the death of the devil course that also means we're going to use all of the technology which we have in two thousand and seventeen which didn't exist nine hundred fifty eight and she would have one that i think she would have had so much fun with the laser cut and if it if interest if. it will be also covered it's no
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skin and program human on her so the interest will be also interactive. don't worry about the technical side on like the electrical contact with my forte the cable will run to a small place on the sole of my shoe the contact plate on the stage floor will be powered from the mains. to the very good third for the floor and so something for the wall and glowing. that way i can turn the lighting on and off at will this will puzzle people and that's good they won't know if they imagine the lights or not. she's going to step onto this kind of metal plate and she's going to short the scene chris is going to look closer and there's a good glow that's her idea but it's incredibly dangerous this is times. like this it's already and most of the literally. there has been. robust
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because we would like to ensure that we are now working on the base stress that. we will create. and this will be the plaster on i os there are going to work on her not them brighter. this was space company foster home owner has been producing top quality embroidered material for the world's leading fashion houses since one thousand nine hundred four. these days they also weave conductive thread and l.e.d.s. into the delicate material to produce the same effects that marlaina dietz to achieve.
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oh. this looks. ok. this is. what you. offer us to think you. yanks think. you. also don't you know. if. you're not. you know. you can learn to see how thick no. can save a lot of problems they had back then like huge stress to hold all the flowers they need embroidery because without it it would look cheap but if there was some dry there is a quick fix to the heavy nowadays we can make kind of
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a new pretty much transparent dress with embroidery with a live in bribery. so there's actually a perfect solution for to us asking for in the year fifty eight. asian teachers and just kids will. start. to think it's also because from i think tricity engineering point dorries things to a perfect high for the cables. and she spends a lot of time educating us half of the cost to me. it will be easy to run the cable along the fast in. this present a problem i know but the small ones know it's. because it's really it's really difficult to. understand what kind of style of flowers she
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wants because i think it too small to like to see. now it's time to get to work on the details hundreds of flowers will be produced with a three d. printer and a laser cutter and also by hand. we can't use the plastic flowers which come with wiring. some of them not beautiful but the light bulbs in the middle are too obvious. about the z. book he says she was good at figuring out worst case scenarios as. we as designers always have to consider both the worst and best case scenarios and the. same idea can look great. or off the orchids for. the night to work only if they replace the embroidery and the sparkle but they have to be hidden. we need lots of flowers and lights. a boat alone would look like
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a christmas tree. i'm sending you flowers for me to leave. i can get about harry we need also an out of colors. yes he wants it sure as where he will have flowers with lights. but the light will be hidden so you know. if everything is sparkling they'll take a while to work out where the glow is coming from. early. to. kids right now i'm marking the line well we'll probably put the organza. if we're
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going to put more flowers and things on this delicate material we're going to have to reinforce it. because it is the new cutter stuff and this is just at some. ways. anyone who takes on the task of designing costumes that would be worthy of my lane a date has to realise that she was one of a kind. teachers had a good laugh over this playboy magazine cover she wrote often imitated never equalled. lisa laying on your dog and her team have worked for
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weeks on this project and now they've made my limited curse dream a reality this costume is light as a feather and transparent. and the lights keep time with the music. cluelessly. tell me when i see this scene. lol. this is the dawn of a new age of fashion. six decades ago. closely. telling name of. love love. love. love soul.
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love. goal was. to seem. let. let love told but told. you loads. closely.
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mysterious storyteller.
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a struggle for survival up. arts twenty one presents sharon side. a symphonic suite by nico live risky corsica. thirty minutes on d w. d w speak your language being dug up from. for content in pashto. prospects for returning. life and the prospects for those returning. join the discussion along t w dot com and on facebook. prospects for returning. may for months. as no children which makes her feel worthless and incomplete. in a society that expects them to be children this is
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a burden. childless women suffer from. a wife is only fully accepted upon. a very personal film about the suffering of childless women in. the fruitless tree starting january fourteenth. climate change is affecting us all. rising sea levels and imagine when i join the rising bottom line through our streets. oh. on change grounds. through entire communities.
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fatah for the good news is our own choices in energy conservation. recycling. and transport can help we draw the line find out what you can do today at redraw the lines. this is d.w. news live from berlin the world is ringing in the new year hour by hour the clock has just struck midnight to something else and asia these are pictures of new
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