tv [untitled] September 30, 2013 4:00pm-4:31pm PDT
>> the of have you gone irate when i can see you're all quite interested in. very glad to see you ear good afternoon this thing and i'm the occur rapport of the decorative arts him martin chapman and i'm here to introduce tour speaker this evening. amanda is really the powerhouse behind all that goes on with bull before i in the heritage
department she's the xoult with the herman collection and she formed the collection. the meaningless pieces of jeweler you'll see upstairs are largely the result of a mademoiselle reach and diligence that people's 3. she's also the great handwriting for bonus i didn't and she's the one we've depend upon on so much for what we're got in the exhibition. she's really will occur rapport i've been tagging along. and she's also written the lion share of the catalog. so i'm really enjoying working with awe madam and she know really you tell that into mailers context as well as the daily of the individual jewels.
so, please join me w in welcoming a madam >> (clapping) >> ladies and gentlemen, it's with great pleasure for me to be here in san francisco for the first time every bully repeal specific in the united states. and to have the opportunity to speak to you attendant to the art of bully and beyond. now during this talk i would like to illustrate bully achievement in the world of jeweler design and by showing you a few of the many magazine physique jewels on x at the de young museum. now the history goes back 1 hundred and thirty years.
my talk focus on a more limited period of time. four exactly of creativity maine from the 1950's to the end of the 1980s. the reason for focusing profiler on this period is that it was during this time that the company began to forge and develop it's very distinct active some kind of. now for those who are not familiar with bully it's history goes back more than a century when the founder who you see on the screen later italy in his his name was the grandfather of the fattening and vice president of the company settled in rome opening the first store in 1994. now pious business prospered
radical and it allowed him to open in 15 years two more shops in rome and a number of subsidies in italy naturally he lives and also seasonal resorts brood and i can see many of them listed around 1905. now after his death in 1932, the fact that he was skoekd by his two sons when you can see pictured here at the back jury box i don't the first boy was a great jeweler connoisseur and the second to publish the italy silver and jeweler to make his
marks. at the beginning of the 1970s of third generations of bully took over the company by johnson i don't see 3 sons you again see here. johnny the latter he would lay off leave the company in 1987. now from 198 had the envelope of the 3 brothers francis the young gentleman in the center became the ceo of the company acting as president and developing. it's franciss pride not only in having lead bully to become a world luxury contraband by to have long been born one hundred years to the day part of
emphasis grandfather's of the founder of bully. in 2011 bully became part of the luxury group. nonetheless they continue to be active within the group. carl and the other son continue as president and vice president and france sick as ceo of the entire watch division of the group. now surprisingly in the early days one would not find precious jewel as a superior manufacture and sold silver ware. this was virtual following in the family footprints tradition. so titus his father and grandparent had been skilled
silver smiths as well as his ancestors who came from a small village in paris and that's in northern greece and albany and they had all been involved in the silver trade and making silver. now, throughout his extensive network of shops 710 told me solidarity facts of the greek tradition as well as antics. it was only around 1915 they began to difference his stoke to reporter his silver artifacts. this required a lot of capital which led him to focus his activity in only one outlet the
number ten store which you see here and it's still the flagship store of burgery worldwide. he began to refresh his other shops leaving them to sobers in egresses. unfortunately, the documents at this time is very scares this photograph of the shop front in the 1920s provides evidence of the greater emphasis placed on jewels that dominated the whole showcase of the center. now from a stiff lyric point of view those that solid in the 1920s up to the 50s although high in intrinsic value are not
recognizable as they follow very closely the fashionable trends. so as i show you here in the 1920s bullyingy created fine decorative art long earrings that were in voltage at this time as they commencement the hair cut. likewise in the 1930s bold jewelers formed a mat active were much in voltage at that time. and in particular wide brablgz which were worn in stacks and it's not sprirlz that bull writingy created a great number of them as i can see on the
screen. now in the 1940s a typical feature they were not mounted in diamonds but in yellow gold of gems used separatelyly. it was not unique to bully >> it was a universal feature and this was caused by the war were plum, in fact, navigate had been erect shunned in countries so jewelerers were good thing to have gold and make due with a more scarce supply of jemdz. now at the end of the war and a beginning of a decade is where our story bins again. it's the time referred to as las vegas chevy in italy the rough
life from the 60s o 50s to the early 60s. after postwar recovery an increasing economic disparity rome became the center of the international film industry. however, the term butch vet now days has become part of the evoke and seems to be applied to a variety of situations that are not scribble related to rome in the 150s. it's used no reference to eateries as well as hotels and b and bs night clubs and as they discover before boarding my flight to san francisco it's
even the name given to airport lounges. now strictly speaking the title is from the film by italian film director starring two italian actors which doesn't depict a rosey sweet life in rome in those days but a creek of the lack of values of a certain ishlg of folks populated by actors and arrest accuracy and mr. no bodies as well as reportsers one in the film who goes by the surname of popping roots. and surprisingly this has stuck
to the point out we refer to the photo reporters as paparazzi but the period maybe reviewed in deed as the sweet life. johnson 0 who you see here seated in the bull writingy store had taken control of the business in 1932 had managed to props even in the war and was posed to meet new challenges and to seize new business tuntsd offered to them as rome became the hollywood on the tiger. now given the high-level of jewels and gives me at bully at the time and the strategic
position of the one and only store in the heart of rome bully became the number one designation of all famous and glamour railways beautiful women continued to expand bullries family well beyond the confidence of italy. as early as 1949 when joem tours got married they choose their wedding abandons at bully and you can see them doing that on and on up on the top tyrone powering and his bride choosing the wedding rings but in the 193
os they celebrities spent their entire first money at bully. now you can see this famous actor here with her matching brochures. mann i don't think is known for playing humble characters hence it comes as a surprise to find here passionate with the large jewels you can see her here wearing on her little finger her 25 carrot buggery ring. when i had the opportunity to ask ca son when his mother began to collect bullyingy he said when mommy made money.
the great region pictured here with her dynamics this jeweler download as a at the are a. now she told me at the beginning of her career she managed to buy an expensive coat. she was so excited but what she considered an externally x haven't purchase she doesn't sleep all that night now, when she bought this a few years ago sniping of the price she slept all night long and have long been surprised by her
reaction >> she told me among the host of beauties and celebrities one can't not mention lisa taylor who had more bully pieces later. it would be impossible for me to show you all the defying vascular but to give you a taste is sophie lauren in paris with a gentleman wearing a very important rubin i didn't and a diamond necklace and claudia wearing a 66 carrot pear-shaped diamond drop and another actor wearing a loaned magnetic necklace.
if it's set with 7 large columbine emerald over 1 hundred and 87 carrots. it's known in bully as the 7 wonders because it was and still is considered one of the finest jewelers every created. it's wonderful for the 7 emeralds perfectly matched in size, shape and a color. it was sold in the 1960s to a wife of a italian industrial i thought and brought back for the collection. now what you've seen from the jewels that the bully jewels i've shown they continue to be independent to the high trends of jeweler.
they were mount in platinum and the colored gives me were employed individually in association with the diamonds and not combined with other colored give me stones. emerald were mounted that diamonds and rubbing i didn't see were mounted with diamond and so forth. there are some rather hints of a future trend and if one looks carefully for example, at this sapphire and a diamond necklace one can see it's mounted are gemstones the sapphires are polished and this is a sense of roundness and this will be a characteristic of bully jewels. likewise, the bracelets one of which was made in 1955 and the
other in 959 are formed with the elements. and once again this roundness becomes a feature in the jewels that we're going to see in coming in the following slides. now among the most distinctions still in the vein of passively run it was the were the broaches that were set with faminescy diamonds and they were greatly falsified by bully client tell. they were worn as broaches or in the hair as you can see here england rid bergman and the former here's us of iran.
now the peculiar all right. of the jewels is their mounted in springs to allow them to quiver. this way of moving was not a novelist at the time it dates back to the 19th century and is particular to the french jeweler so it goes back a long time by bully adopted it in the mid 20th century to mount those jewels are and in particular they choose the designs because johnson a bullyingy a had acquired a large diamond from a diamond dealer in paris so it was a challenge to mount differently shaped and a colored
joem stones but how successfully he managed to do so by creating those kwifr jewelers. it was, however, from the 1960 onwards that bully enhance to mixing all colors together and urging them as can be john gems and their compacted symmetrical shapes. at first, the combiekz were simple just dark sapphires and pail sapphires but gradual the combination became bolder. and now another characteristic as i mentioned was this idea of compacted shapes are not only color but the patch shapes a
complete departure from the a symmetrical. so the bully new style that begins to develop is characterized by color, knack, rounded shapes. one of the most iconic pieces in because a necklace dated to 1965. it is set with very bold color combinations as you can see here. green emeralds and purple am sits. it's interesting that color is used really as if it was just like paint. bully is not concerned with the individual intrinsic value of the gemstones. what counts is the ultimate effect. here your mixing expensive irmdz
and next to am authenticities it doesn't matter just the outcome effect. notice the beauty of the back of this piece. the front of the jewel and the back have to be of the equal quality. the back of the jewel this beautiful finish we'll be able to see is the back is indicative of the quality of a piece. so i think you could wear this piece back to front. it's not surprisingly that this piece was immediately bought by an american chavrlz webb son the founder of ref lesson for his beautiful wife len. i managed to buy back this necklace for the buggery vintage
heritage collection. the retrospective collection of jewels that's not for sale. it featured on the front cover felt first bully major retrospective of 2009 and was chronological as the image of 3 had the 5 million stamps celebrating bullries 1 hundred and 5th ann versed and on a limited edition of minute relay water. another iconic piece is the reoccurring ingrins of the style knack shaped this magnetic necklace of 1967.
incidentally those are mainly mount in yellow gold which is another departure from the jewels that were intend to be mounted in white precious metal. now the timeliness is the fact that this necklace made in 1967 was chronological to be one or more on the red carpet of the academy awards and now bully ever since this necklace is known after that actress. now in the 1970s the third generation of bully came to take over the leadership of the company after the death of their
respective georgia bully with who died in 1966 and the other in 1973. his sons took over the family business and here you see them seated in the store. so you can see from the left johnny paling low and nicole. now as a result, the jewels are characterized by youthful spirit. with the dines drawn from an e collective rankle of sources. a great number and variety of long necklaces were created at this time. this is not surprisingly since
the they were 80 shaped to the long lines of the mabs i didn't debris dress. they feature color and large stones. for example, the one that you see here has a huge emerald of over 3 hundred carrots. others draw from original sources such as a we have the b bud had a >> one of the pieces was owned by ben webb son which you see here pictured foisted by richard. others soot i can't see were evenly crust with precious
giving me gemstones. it was during those years the so-called bully eye. an oval pie. this was he successfully he adapted their covered with the bully eyes all over. you find the most active featured on rings, restorations and bracelets. and it continues to be interpreted in different ways nowadays. interestingly most is a was are convertible and worn as a broach as you see here. others can be divided and the different sections were worn separately.
sometimes a shorter necklace or as bracelets. now during the 70s many are whim u whimsical. at times they were independent to concepts namely that of evaluating common jewels and here you find playing cards that become precious jewels and a here judges a simple card becomes a fantastic pen let in gold and mother of parallel and the can what is the mother of parallel on index and diamonds. on others occasions ice cream cones become