C Stanley! ]
Among the many
for Woodworkers made by this Company are :
“BAILEY” PLANES TRY AND MITRE SQUARES
“BED ROCK” PLANES CARPENTER’S STEEL SQUARES
BOXWOOD RULES BEVELS
IRON AND WOOD LEVELS
STANLEY FOUR-SQUARE HOUSEHOLD TOOLS
“ZIG ZAG” RULES
For complete list of Tools
send for Catalogues No. 34
This organization also manufactures a full line of
Wrought Steel Hardware, Butts and Hinges, Storm Sash
and Screen Hardware, Box Strapping, Shelf Brackets,
Cold Rolled Steel, Wrought Steel Specialties, etc.
Catalogues illustrating the various lines will also
be sent to those interested.
NEW BRITAIN, CON N..U.S.A.
TMl STANLEY WORKS - THE STANLEY RULE «. LEVEL PLANT
NEW YORK • CMICAOO • SAN FRANCISCO • LOS ANGELES • SEATTLE
“PISTOL GRIP” ADJUSTABLE SAW SET No. 42
This Saw Set embodies several unique and im¬
portant features not heretofore seen in tools of this
The shape of the Body and Handle enables the
user to operate the tool with great ease and with
the least possible exertion, and the saw is held firmly
against the gauge while the tooth is being set.
It can be readily adjusted by means of the
knurled thumb screw to give a greater or less set to
the teeth of the saw, according as the saw is to be
used for coarse or fine work. As the anvil or part
against which the plunger works is graduated, the
same adjustment can be easily obtained for dupli¬
The tool is so designed that the saw teeth are
in plain view which enables the user to quickly
adjust the tool to the tooth to be set.
The plunger and anvil are made of tool steel—
hardened and tempered. All parts are carefully
machined and are interchangeable.
The tool is given a fine black finish.
DIRECTIONS FOR SHARPENING A SAW
Use No. 42 Saw Set for ordinary Cross Cut and Rip Saw
Read the following directions and examine the illustrations carefully. If possible examine a new saw
to see how the teeth look before going to work.
There are several distinct operations necessary for setting and filing saws.
This operation is necessary only when the teeth
of the saw are uneven.
If your saw looks like this This is the way your saw* should
it needs jointing. look after it has been jointed.
If not uneven this operation and the one known
as “Shaping” can be omitted. You then start in on
“Setting”, (explained below). Place the saw in a
clamp with the handle to the right. Lay a mill file
lengthwise on the teeth. File lightly back and forth
until the teeth are all even; that is, the file touches
When viewed from the end and
side. This is how the teeth of
your Cross Cut Saw should look
when you finish filing.
When viewed from side and end.
This is how your Rip Saw should
look, when you finish filing.
This is the way your saw should
look after shaping.
Necessary only after saw has been jointed. This
is to give all teeth correct shape, that is, have all
gullets same depth, have front and back of teeth
proper shape. To do this place the file (a taper
file) down in the gullet and file across the saw at
the right angles to the blade, (file at no other angle).
If the teeth are of different sizes, file most on the
ones having largest flat tops, until you reach the
center of the flat top. Then file in the next gullet
until the flat top becomes a point. Don’t try to bevel
the teeth at this operation.
Absolutely necessary after “Shaping” but not
necessary every time your saw needs slight sharp¬
ening. “Setting” is springing over the upper part of
the tooth only, one to the right the other to the
left so as to make it cut a kerf a little bit wider than
the saw, to give it clearance .1/100 of an inch is
enough for ordinary work. If more than the upper
half of the tooth is sprung or set, you may crimp the
blade or break the tooth.
The size of the file to be used should be deter¬
mined by the number of points the saw has to the
To find the number of points to the inch, measure
1 inch from a given tooth and count the number of
points. There will be one more point than there are
5 pt. Cross Cut Saw use 6<' regular taper file.
6, 7, 8&9 “ “ .4
10 & 11. “ “ .5 V 2 " slim
4%. 5,5% & 6 “ “ “ “ “ 4%'' regular “ “
Cross Cut Saws. Place the saw in a clamp with
the handle to the right. Flatten the top of teeth
slightly as in jointing, for a guide. Stand to the left
of the saw. Place the file in the gullet of the first
tooth directly across the blade, then swing the file
handle to the left 45 degrees. Be sure the file fits
down in the gullet and that the file is level, don’t
tip it. Pile on the push stroke until you cut away
one-half of the flat top you made as a guide. You
have now filed one-half of the tooth that is to the
left and one-half of the tooth that is to the right at
the same time. Skip the next gullet, and repeat the
same operation as in the first gullet you filed. Con¬
tinue until you reach the handle.
Then turn your saw around so that the handle
is to the left. Place file down in gullet nearest you.
This is the first gullet that hasn’t been filed. Swing
handle of the file to the right 45 degrees and file
until the flat part of teeth is removed. Skip the next
gullet and repeat this operation until you reach
Now place the saw on a board and run a flat
file over the side lightly once on each side. This is
to have the set uniform and remove any burrs.
Rip Saws are filed identically the same way ex¬
cept that instead of filing at 45 degrees you file
straight across or at right angles to the blade.